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and the eighties also..lol

Looking at your nick I thought you were more into blow jobs...

Wind or air movement allow light rays also to penetrate when leaves are moved by the air..this effect is well studied in photobiology also... You can have lot of diffuse light as top lighting source but if you have a very dense top canopy layer...it wont penetrate too much

Certain wavelenghts like those on the green zone penetrate deeper into canopy also far red . That is a scientific fact well know since time ago By the way , your nick comes from Philip K.dick novels?

This is the key : more wavelenghts below 450 and more wavelenghts that allow better penetration of light into the intracanopy. And the role of Far red and infrared in leaf transpiration...

If you find nice blue 430 you can add them to 3500 K or 3000 K , results would be ok anyway..cause both 3000 and 3500 lack in the 430 zone. But in every case you will loose efficiency cause 430 monos probably are not as efficient as warm white samsungs... You can use 3000 K or 3500 K from seed...

That german company has good quality leds..in fact I built my lamps with his samsungs and osrams.. Quality is better than chinese products for sure, and if you are in Europe they have good prices.. Well and now regarding your design... You have to change lot of things IMHO.. The base light is ok...

I bought Them at digikey. I bought them mounted in a star board, not easy to find... I have used them all the plants cycle cause I wanted similar conditions than outdoors, but you can use them only in flowering time. I used 60mw output radiant power for a maximun of about 3,5 hours per day in...

Regarding triac dimming... The only thing you needs to check is the minimum load on your triac dimmer. The drivers do not matter its about load. Old dimmers needed between 20-40 watts Some of the new dimmers can go down to 3-5 watts

You can use a triac dimmer to dim your lights but most triac dimmers have a minimum load of 20 watts You need to buy a specific led triac dimmer that has a minimum load of 5 watts. They are available in most countries now

Cant say nothing but good things about TEKNIK... Always helping and sharing knowledge for free. probably the person who knows more about led technology I ever knew I have never bought from Cutter...but after this issue..I will never buy from Cutter and I will tell everybody who ask me about led...

I am on the same opinion..starting of light stress...

Yes..and it worked nicely thanks to @Randomblame previous clever advices

Yes they were. I bought them star mounted

BUDDIES RED OFF WHITES ON PPFD: 108 BUDDIES RED ON WHITES ON PPFD : 144 Well next grow I will do better testing and other fixtures... I want to say thanks to TEKNIK for sending me this promising leds to test and enjoy!

Hi all, I received also from TEKNIK 4 strings of his nice "buddies", At the moment of the arrival, the crop was in their last stage so I have not used them yet. But I have been doing some quick designs and some measures with a sekonic C-7000 spectrometer of the impact of the buddies in the...

Thanks for calling!

And again..regarding 285nm..this was the most eficient and reliable led in the market....at least until end of 2019.... https://www.neumueller.com/datenblatt/seoulviosys/CUD8GF1B_R1.0%20(285nm_CA3535).pdf Avoid 280nm ones..you dont need such a low wavelenght...is an error and dangerous to use it...

A 280nm led is not the correct led to use... You should look for 285nm and if not avalaible better 295,300,310 nm..but never going lower wavelenghts than 285nm cause danger of the UVB increases a lot..and you need 285nm and no less wavelenght... in fact some sellers have UVB led fixtures with...