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No. Those are the leaves that had deficiency in the PAST. They will continue to get worse. There is nothing you can do to make them look better. Focus on the NEW growth. It looks good. The discoloration and twisting is the aftermath of your ph issues. The leaves that were developing then...

For some reason when I opened that page I had to sign in again

Just so you know, that picture you showed wasn't root rot. That was fungi growing in the rockwool from the subculture. You probably had a little too much.

Yes that is what I do for the first bit as well. From my second post in your thread: "Are the roots long enough to hang down into the nutrients? For the first week or so I would keep the water high enough so that the pot is in the water at least a quarter inch or so,"

Just to be a bit more specific.... When I council people to top feed til the roots get going, I'm not talking about pouring water into the rockwool. I'm talling about pouring it into the hydroten, several times a day to keep the hydroten continually moist. That way the roots will grow out...

In the next couple days you could start bumping up the ppm to 200. Looking very nice.

Focus only on the new growth, it looks perfect. There is nothing you can do to make the older growth look better. Its very slow at first for these little guys to recover. A large plant will recover in a few days, just like an adult person will. But imagine a small baby getting sick, it can...

Adjust your ph further down, like to 5.4 or even a bit less, that way it will spend more time in the zone

One thing I never see mentioned and didn't find out until recently, is that while high temperature bulbs encourage vegetative growth, low temperature bulbs encourage root growth. So I now do my cloning under a couple of 10w 2700k bulbs.

I'll copy what I posted elsewhere on this same issue: High ppm actually slows plant growth down, since the plant doesn't drink as much, therefore not taking up the amount of calcium and other things it needs. Calcium is the big one though, and is uptaken totally passively, which means only...

You must have a pretty small reservoir for it to change so quickly? Also with so little nutrient at this stage, it is easier for the phto be affected by what the plant is releasing in the water as it grows. Exactly what I would do.

Plain water would be fine with soil but not hydro, they would think they are dying. Go with new mix, and also reduce your ppm, that's why your leaves are probably curling. I try to stay down around 800ppm at most. High ppm actually slows plant growth down, since the plant doesn't drink as...

How about this: Change out water, give it RO, no h2o2 and feed it 150ppm or so. They need to be fed. They're showing what look like signs of deficiencies, but we would be able to see better if you had white light.

Op: check online, your city or town may have that information available, a lot of water departments do.

IMO no reason to start over, you've got 2 fine looking seedlings and one questionable one. It may be that the third pheno is a bit more susceptible to ph problems and got a bit twisted up, but I don't see any burning or discoloration, so I wouldn't worry too much. Just watch your ppms. If...

In my experience, and many others as well, plants do better when grown in the 600-800ppm range than they do at higher levels. Most of my strains would burn at the levels you were using. One of the main reasons they do better is that they take up more water at those lower levels, which means...

Yah maybe run them for a week or so and see what happens. A little less than ideal is generally better that a little more.

Nothing wrong with keeping old threads going, if they've got good info. I miss having fatman around. I use calcium chloride for my rdwc system. You can get a great deal on it from amazon. Snow Joe ice melter (the red bag) is pure calcium chloride. It dilutes fairly quickly and a side benefit...

Here's the feed schedule, gives you an idea of what ppm to expect at different rates: http://cch2o.com/cultured-solutions-feeding-schedule/

like I said that's really odd. Full strength nutes would normally prob be up around 1000 (or higher with some). So when I say 1/4 strength, I'm thinking 200-250