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The only thing that can go bad with soluble salts is precipitation. I would water them down with RO or distilled water. A less saturated solution will have less chance for fallout. I always remember a hockey puck at the bottom of DynaGro when I didn't use it fast enough.

You need to divide the weight of each element by the total weight of the salts used. A ballpark mix for a 55gal barrel would be 100-100-50. Total weight in grams for each is 19.5N-18P-38K-19Ca-5Mg-6.5S. Divide all elements by 250 for NPK and percentages of the salt mix. 8-7-15 7.5Ca 2Mg 2.5S

Organics are slow to break down and release nutrients. You may not see a difference by harvest time. Only thing that works immediately are soluble ferts like MaxiGro, Calcium Nitrate...etc. But that would not be an organic source of N.

I think you can run a little lower EC and be fine. I'm running 1.3 EC with rainwater and she is still very green with dense buds. Ballpark of my mix is 120-40-180 90Ca 50Mg 100S.

Looks like an aphid nymph.

Not any stronger than your average liquid. Dyna-Gro makes a strong liquid, but half of it falls out after a few months leaving a puck in the bottom.

Never heard a liquid fert called hot. You need to mix to proper EC before use.

Read them through a loupe with good lighting.

I could see replacing all or most of the perlite in a mix with coco chips and it working very well. Again, my frugal nature and the fact I use over a dozen cu.ft. of mix per year would persuade me not to use coco. Perlite and vermiculite cost me $25 and $35 respectively. My guess is 4 cu.ft of...

Here is my take on coco. People use because it makes them feel good they are now more eco-friendly. It's also the new trendy thing. Us old peat and cow manure growers are yesterdays story. Coco costs 4-6 times as much as peat, even more if you buy the buffered type or factor in the cost of...

I have always fed to the very end outdoors. I hit my plants with Jacks Finish once or twice a week.

That's why you add dolomite(calcium magnesium carbonate) to the mix, it buffers the peats acidity and adds the Ca and Mg.

The real big fans and some of the inner and lower stuff can show a little fade. If you aren't getting yellow and dropping until after first week of October, she should finish pretty strong.

Sweet looking plant. A nice open plant should perform well. I'm also in the NE and have found bushy plants turn into a giant blob of mildew.

I don't see an issue using that mix, just add pulverized dolomite at about 5% of the total weight of peat for buffering. Base will be coco-peat-lime. Then whatever aeration you want, perlite-vermiculite-rice hulls-fine pummice...etc. Last the organics you choose, EWC-granular...

Another reason I have found Athena suspect, their Fade is CaCl2 and it is used in rather large quantities. I figured since HCl was so strong it would add acceptable amounts of chloride to a solution. If I get bored I might crunch the numbers next time I mix a rez.

Muriatic is dirt cheap at about $8 gallon....plus it makes a great toilet bowl cleaner:razz: