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After some research I'm gonna try four PF cakes and four Uncle Bens to bulk. I ordered a controlled monotub and will be building a shotgun chamber when needed.

Great classic tune!....added to the 70's song thread asap.

Best thing to pH down living soil is elemental sulphur. Sulphur is non antagonistic with other nutrients, plus it is a terp booster. Top dress a few spoonfuls then check runoff in a week. It works slowly as microbes break it down.

I did fine start to finish with 321, gonna do the same with the no epsom mix. The main problem for me in NE is the damn mildew.

Run a triple RO in series, then use the super concentrated wastewater to flush the commode once a week. The RO water is ready for fresh nutes and you saved a flush of water as well....win win.

After reading a few posts of people dropping the epsom in the 321 to make things a bit easier I looked into it a bit for myself. I futzed around with Hydro Buddy and came up with 3.5-2-0 that should deliver all the micros and macros in a good range. K-Ca-Mg was still close to 4-2-1 to avoid...

On it, I just ordered a 10L sprayer and some BT concentrate. I usually only spray the kale for cabbage worms, but I'm gonna play it safe and spray these big girls down.

I will give some props for the very uniform deliver :clap:

I see the rust on some of the bolts. I would check continuity on any switches and fuses first before ruling out the driver. They could be full of corrosion.

Pull out the Pink and Purple wires, insulate them and try the unit.

Good point, if you open that box and take the dimmer wires off that could be one of the issues. A short would cause the light to stay off, leave the wires open would run the light at 100%.

This should be a very easy fix. Looks like you have a common driver you can buy from Mouser or DigiKey. The earth, neutral and hot will need to be desoldered from that custom connector after the shrink is cut off. Also you will need to open the connection box to see how the DC and dimmer...

Each case would be different, there won't be an ABC guide to it. The old driver would need to be inspected as would the connections. Most likely it would involve matching wire to wire connections, pcb headers and maybe a little desolder/soldering. There are quite a few guys on here that have...

I plan on purchasing a controlled monotub and a few syringes. I'll probably DIY a larger setup later if things don't get FUBARed. So after some research it looked like the cleanest and easiest things to manage are... Light Karo Syrup Coco Coir Vermiculite Brown Rice - Rice Flour Gypsum...

I did add a 140mm fan to the top of mine later on.....figured why not. Cooler temps=extended life. I have seen quite a few people build the double boards on a triple slate for the extra cooling and light dispersion.

I don't see any issues switching nutrient mid grow. You are growing in a solution of salt ions, doesn't matter who puts them in a bag or bottle.

I run 3 of the those boards in a 2X4 at 480W. I got 3 boards, the triple slate and a HLG 480h c2800b for around $300. Those boards do get fairly hot so I would advise to also using thermal compound to install them. I had to go back and add the compound when I hit the boards with IR thermometer.

Check agricultural suppliers in your area, they won't have the weed tax on peat blends. I was lucky to find one in my area that I didn't need to register a tax ID. I toss them cash and they drop the pallet on my truck.

I mixed my own for a couple years until a found a place that sells BM6 for $25 a bale. I did a bit research and found a paper by UCBerkeley that recommends 5% pulverized dolomite by weight be added to peat for container gardening. That was about 3 pounds per 4ft bale of peat. With the coco in...