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And Philips has a new Master Led tube that's 170 lm/w http://www.leds.de/out/media/Datenblatt_30522.pdf It's 26 euros though, a little expensive. New bulbs for Euros should be really soon.

13-15W '100W equivalents' are great. As cost effective as they come and smashes CFL.

Philips has new LED spots available in Europe. It's a shame they're only up to 5.5W 97cri available in 4000K, 73lm/w and a 36 degrees beam angle. 73 lm/w 4000K at 97 cri is probably equal in efficiency to a 95 lm/w 4000K at 80 cri. Not amazing even for bulbs but it has a very tight beam angle...

On ICmag there's a microgrower who has done a shitload of growing with both CFL and LED bulbs. https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=190726&page=209 He had pretty much the same yields with 1/3rd-1/2 wattage when he switched to LED. It has mostly to do with LEDs being directional so...

Generic a19 bulbs are great for the price. For best results you remove the plastic globe. Every modern bulb that's even halfway decent will be able to do 1g/w with a decent strain

http://www.lumileds.com/news/280/50/Lumileds-Sets-New-Standard-for-Efficiency-and-Reliability-in-Popular-Mid-Power-Package Lumileds just upgraded their mid-power leds. Since lumileds = philips you can expect a bulb upgrade very soon. Unless they go the cheap ass route and only reduce the...

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=7941276&postcount=1443

It looks like my upper leaves have some major light stress. It's only the upper leaves that are doing this. Also a sneaky first ripe pepper.

I only see empty cups though.

Just use 2700K for everything.

I have no problems with 120-150W in a 4 square foot tent. No outtake/intake fan. Netherlands so not the hottest climate. With modern top of the line chips you can easily get away with 25W/square foot.

It's a 300W light or so. Won't replace a 600w hps unless it's an old and busted light. Also way overpriced

4 crappy 250W led lights put out just as much heat as an HPS.

I think you're way too paranoid about the voltage. Maybe you're too careless with it, by far most people haven't been.

Chilled does provide the umol/j on the reports page, their lights are sphere tested. Anyway, most consumers will first look at wattage. Most consumers don't know what to do with umol/j and total ppf except that higher is better.

Any way, there are diminishing returns as you go towards 1500PPFD. 600-900 is nicest if you want to maximize gram per watt, but marijunana is a high value crop so gram per watt isn't too important unless specific cases where you want to minimize wattage at all costs. Or the differences are...

Do you know what light schedule was used in the study? A ppfd of 1500 over 18 hours is completely different than the same PPFD over 12 hours.

Both reasons also depend on the die density inside the COB. A Vero 10 isn't much denser than an XP-G3 when it comes to thermals. Vero 10 consumes up to about 3 times as much power, but the area of the LES is also 3 times as big. And the CLU028 1201's LES has 3 times the area while only...

A timber framework is 2 times as efficient as a Galaxyhydro. (literally) 6 "600W" Galaxyhydros won't replace 3000W of HPS.

Well, it also depends on the COB and the discrete LED. Not that the weaker ones are used by 90+% of the users here. A clu028...1201 is at most a 9 watt chip. An XHP35 is more powerful than that and iirc a single die. At some point uniformity differences become irrelevant, but most people...