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You just reworded the question I wrote with arbitrary temperatures and ignored the insulation route... Unsurprisingly ttystikk responded to you with a quip of common sense that addresses nothing commented on. lol

The specs sheets from the manufacturer should list mounting specifications for thermocouples. But to be honest I see very little gained from having the water in direct contact with the COB vs a standard cooling block. Reason being that water is the weak link in the thermal conductance chain...

If your light is at a fixed point you adjust lighting via dimming vs raising and lowering light. That said, if you use the right size screw driver and dont wrench on it it will be just fine.

Nah, A types go from about 40 to 112 and everything in between.

Weird, I was under the impression B types could be dimmed 0-100%. A type goes from 50-100. Last I checked in practice (A) goes from roughly 40% to 112% of nominal rating. B also hits close to the 112% mark.

Is there any practical application for this, or mainly for sheer nerdiness?

You going the insulating route or simply running your system at a higher temp? With a dialed in setup like yourself I wouldnt think it would be that difficult to figure out the dewpoint and run your light cooling system a degree or so warmer than the dewpoint.

Im curious to see how this turns out. I was going to mix in some of thsee to my current build but decided to wait. This will be interesting

This is silly. I also have doubts about improved efficiency by cutting holes in the bar to have the water in direct contact with the cob. The downsides of that seem to outweigh the potential gains imo. Im assuming you use those bars to heat your grow room too? Im just wondering if your...

Shit, this tech has been right around the corner for about two decades now... dont know if Id get too excited if I were you. Havent kept up with the tech lately though, so maybe it will become more than vaporware in the not-so-distant future.

There's a website you can go to to have local makers print out stuff for you. Why wouldn't a 3D printed res work? Unless the material is toxic theres no rEason it shouldn't work

I'm a little dumbfounded that no one seems to have done a scrog with these yet... what gives?

Very well, I will say I didn't do that good of a job on design as far as efficiency goes but it works great. Providing plenty of cooling for my fridge grow. Going to build another one for another project I'm working on. Will definitely improve design a lot on version 2.

@Yodaweed also, do you know what the inverse square law is??? If so, how does it make any sense that hanging a light further away would be any way shape or form, more "optimal"? Unless you count the merits of light spread, in which case your argument loses even worse in this case.

Whats your setup for your CMH and how much did you yield?

So let me get this straight, its only "fair" if the lights are hung at the same height??? So why dont you run a grow with a gavita and QB setup each hung at 12 inches off canopy and lets hear the results... Or would it only be fair to hang the QBs 3 feet from the plants like a gavita...

Dude, if anyone believed anything you have said in the past, he would have ended up with roughly 0.0 ounces... You dug your grave weeks ago, give it up man.

And wtf would the point of that be??? In practice can you put a gavita ~12 inches from a plant without burning it?? Its like comparing apples to oranges, but saying if you hold them all at the same height, they are all bananas.

28 grams to an ounce. 9.5 ounces.... I wont spoil the fun of doing the math for you.

Let me ask you guys this, how does a par meter help you more than me and my lux meter? I plan on making a thread on this topic sometime today most likely. Let me also ask this do you actually use your meter to figure out the plants optimal ppfd or do you use a chart online to figure out an...