10.0 Uvb Light

2smoke4bud7

Well-Known Member
yeah i believe so
i just got my in a tube so cover more of my canopy
running 2 20w 10.0 uvb
 

moodster

Well-Known Member
and would the above bulb be ok for four plants in 1 meter square tent thanks everyone i is gonna buy one :weed:
 

topfuel29

Well-Known Member
This is cool. Were all doing our own study on UVB.
All of use working together making this Thread really worth something.
Plus the pictures and the information we all are adding here will really
help alot of people down the road.
Maybe we can get this thread on a "Sticky" down the road after
we prove that using UVB is as important as using water.:bigjoint:

I think the hard part is gonna be saying that it improved THC potency.
I have no way of testing the THC. That part of this study is gonna be
a little Foggy....:leaf:
 

DeweY

Well-Known Member
I Had a uvb lamp from my snakes buti got rid of them so i had a uvb lamp left but i looked at it for too long 3-4 mins i went to sleep tht night woke up and couldn't open my eyes Its horrible you realli dont want it i had 2 get my mates 2 roll my joints:(:(

Dewey
 

topfuel29

Well-Known Member
heres some Great Info
From:http://cannabis-world.org/cw/showthread.php?t=3523

TITLE The positive or negative effect of UV-B light on flavanoid production or other aspects of plants.


OBJECTIVE

To identify if UV-B light has a positive effect on some plant life. To determine at what point there is a diminished return. There have been some reports as to the positive effects of UV-B light in the increasing of flavanoids. These articles have been very vague in there description of results with no mention of controls or approach.

APPROACH

A controlled camber will be used for observation. The observations will be conducted in the floral stage of
development. The plants will be grown under artificial lights. The lights used in this enclosed chamber are as follows. 1 400 watt metal halide, 1 90 watt low pressure sodium, and two 23 watt cool white flourescent bulbs. The chamber has a total area of 8.9 cu.ft. The chamber is enriched with CO2 every hour. The regulator is set at 12 CFH (this is only a visual reading on the gage with a +/-5%) and is injected every hour during the growth period. The chamber is vented for 10 minutes prior to the injection of CO2. The temperature is held to a maximum of 87 degrees during lights on and a minimum of 45 degrees
during the lights off. The UV bulb used is a Phillips F20T12/UVB73. The bulb will be placed in a Lights
of America 20 watt light strip. The bulb and cover were removed and a 20 watt bulb replaced with the UV-B bulb. The fixture was placed in the top, upper front of the chamber. This is the best location to prevent blocking of the 400 watt MH or the LPS lights. There is no reflector on this fixture. The plants have a distance of no more than 15 inches from the bulb. The plants will have an introduction to the UV-B gradually and at timed intervals during the light on periods. This will start with one to two minute on periods for a total of four days. This will be increased to 12 to 20 minutes on times for a total of 2 hours and 15 minutes. This will be divided into 8 total on cycles. The timing cycle is accomplished using an X10 computer control system. Limitations in the timing system is a min of 1 min on cycle. The other limitation is the increases are done in three stages with three separate timming programs to written. The nutrient level will be 28 CF (1800 ppm ) with two parts GH nutrient Bloom formula.


OBSERVATIONS

After 3 years of testing 4 crops with and 3 without UVB I have reached a conclusion. This conclusion is only based on my research and needs validation from other are needed to be definitive or conclusive.

The bulb should be replaced every year. There seamed to be some drop off in the results after the first year but the results were still better than without UVB. I noticed that some plants had a hard time acclimating to the UVB at first these low tolerance plant exhibited a lot of leaf "Curl or sunburn when introduced to the UVB however the younger leaves quickly adapt to the UVB light. It is important to introduce the plants at a young (short) age so a most of the plant is exposed over a long period of time . The results are not as prominent over the entire plant and is less noticeable. In other words a plant started with most of it exposed over its life to the UVB. The lower shoots if exposed when young will have more resin on them than those that were not exposed at a young age.

As to Flavanoids. The research that I did in 1994 about this hormone convinced me that it has no connection or very little influence on resin production or aroma. The closest correlating condition is that aroma has as much to do with nutrient level or even the nutrient used. This is reflected mainly in "original" or harvest odor. Resin production is not related to Flavanoids.

CONCLUSION

In a controlled environment the addition of UVB light at the rate of 20 watts per 9 sq ft would seam to be the amount need to duplicate these results. Also of note the plants can outproduce the outdoor plants in overall resin production . This is based on one out door test site.


QUESTIONS

UV Light research

Re: Fact sheet about calculations and specs

15 watt UV 17 * inches long requires standard 15 watt flourescent ballast

Coverage area 300 liters

30 watt light is good for 500 liters

Conversion cubic inches (divided by) 1728 X 18321 (divided by) = liters

20 & 40 watt bulb is the only ones that work mostly in the UVB range they also use a standard ballast. Have a spectrum of 295 to 320 cost of 20 watt bulb is $40.00 (min. Order is $50.00).


Source for bulb Universal Light Source PO Box 426200, San Francisco, CA 9412

What type of material is transparent to UVB light? - Only Quarts base material and very few synthetics

How broad is spectrum compared to FS 40 bulb? - The spectrum is the same.

ncga
 

BloodShot420

Well-Known Member
i read something to that same effect... a good read though ;-)

so he's saying 20w per 9 sq ft... and i have a 17.5 sq ft screen, i need about 40w. I'm using two 23w CFLs and an 18" fluoro at 15w - so i only have 60w... i'm gonna have to step it up ;-)

most people use 50w / sq ft of HID lighting... my garden is at over 100 and they eat it up, double UV shouldnt hurt them - maybe i can get so much uv in there they will turn completely white with trich's ;-)

I'm thinking about getting a couple of those 24" dual lamp fixtures and taking them apart and mounting them on top of my 1000w hoods so there is a 24" uv bulb on each side of the 1KW bulbs that would add 80w to the garden (and i could still turn on the 60 i have ;-))
 

topfuel29

Well-Known Member
i read something to that same effect... a good read though ;-)

so he's saying 20w per 9 sq ft... and i have a 17.5 sq ft screen, i need about 40w. I'm using two 23w CFLs and an 18" fluoro at 15w - so i only have 60w... i'm gonna have to step it up ;-)

most people use 50w / sq ft of HID lighting... my garden is at over 100 and they eat it up, double UV shouldnt hurt them - maybe i can get so much uv in there they will turn completely white with trich's ;-)

I'm thinking about getting a couple of those 24" dual lamp fixtures and taking them apart and mounting them on top of my 1000w hoods so there is a 24" uv bulb on each side of the 1KW bulbs that would add 80w to the garden (and i could still turn on the 60 i have ;-))
You have 17.5 Sq ft of area.
we need .23211 watts per Sqr. ft. of UVB

17.5sq ft x
.23211 watts per Sqr. ft. of UVB= 4.0619 watts of UVB
You Need (2) 20 watt UVB 10.0 Lights.

He was also talking about a shorter time period than what I have mine at.
so you know I don't think it would hurt to add more to it. If you do add to your set-up I'm interested in seeing what happens. Thats alot of UVB.
 

Landragon

Well-Known Member
To the guy running the 70w 10000k hqi's unshielded : STOP NOW! This is very bad for you and your plants and can even damage the insulation on your wiring. The amount of benefit from the uv-b is nothing compared to the damage the uv-a is causing. You are unleashing dangerous levels well beyond a few hours in the full sun. You are asking for trouble.
 

Landragon

Well-Known Member
Most of what can be seen here is people showing pics of early flowers, making claims they see a difference in three days or so with no before/after sequences. Meh. If you wanna run a test it needs controls. You can't hook up a bulb in the middle of a grow, notice improvement, and claim proof.

Set up identical scenarios in same room using clones from same mom. Seperate zones so no light from one extends to other. On one use uv-b supplementation, and none on the other. Run at least three crops this way. Crudely determine resin content by making bubble hash from equal weights made up of ENTIRE plants. This material should be dried fully, and allowed to rest 30 days in a 5 gallon bucket containg a sachet with 30 grams of dessicant in it. This will standardize moisture content amongst batches and allow for truly equal volumes by weight. Dry collected resin in similar fashion to allow a very low moisture content. Weigh resins, compare. As for potency, only a gas-chromatograph mass-spectrometer will accurately tell you this. To estimate, hand out properly dried samples of equal weight to ten friends or more. Ask them to sample first high of the day. For ten days. Give them other sample ten days later. Don't explain anything. Ask them what's up.
 

BloodShot420

Well-Known Member
yeah - i agree... there seems to be no "control" in any of the pics... sorta like saying

i added UVB lights when i started to flower and all my bitches took off and doubled in height over the next 4 weeks...

most people dont have 2 rooms to dedicate to such an experiment... and making hash out of 1 plant vs another is probably not effective either, because you dont know how effective your hash making skills are, and you cant be sure they are both treated evenly (you might be tired after you turn the first plant into hash, so the second may suffer)

and if i gave 20 days worth of wake'n bakes to 10 friends, they would all immediately realize i was growing ;-)

but i can say, it does make a difference... i've had several complete grows in my garden, and i've only been using UV on the last 2... it does make a difference to the bud, especially where the bud is closest to the lights... it may not be measurable in potency or thc percentages, but it changes the high, and the buds look different, more amber colors, no white hairs - they look pretty sick ;-)

i'm convinced it is a good idea - it cant hurt the plants (but it CAN hurt your eyes)... its a spectrum of light that usually never makes it into indoor gardens - and why would it unless you are growing herb? i doubt UV does anything for tomatoes or broccoli.

on another note, i changed my UV to run 10 hrs a day now, with no ill effects on the girls... no sunburn, stress, or crunchy vegetation...
 

Landragon

Well-Known Member
the amount of usable radiation emitted by reptile lights is small. They are designed to be used in a terranium or over a cage. Typicaly these cages are short and in tall ones, a perch must be made up high to allow the animal to climb into it's comfort zone. These bulbs are almost useless more than 20" away and must be kept close to have effect. I certainly believe uv-b plays a huge role in thc and specificaly thc-v. I feel a manufacturer needs to step up and make a uv-b hid to supplement. I know it's askng a lot butthers are so many products than really are made to grow weed I think it can be done. Lifelite in cali make sunpulse bulbs from 3k-10k in a metal halide. They market for growers to switch to their 10k near harvest to increase "essential oil production". Hmmm. They claim all their bulbs emit useable amounts of uv-b. They also make cmh bulbs with generous uv-b. I'm going a side by side next time with a 600 hps and a 600 3k mh, finishing the mh side with the 10k during flush. I know this isn't testing anything with uv-b persay, but I want flavorful, high inducing pot. I'm not happy with my latest effort using hps. Bland flavors compared to pot I grew years ago using combos of mh and hps.

As for testing uv-b once I settle on happy bulbs , I'll run my test mentioned above with vho tanning lamps.

A washing machine or bubbleator doesn't get tired. :)
 
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