arcalion
Well-Known Member
both my rooms are around the same humidity ive never had a problem in that room it being 45-60% nights my flower temps are around 23C-25C
1500W LED DIY (Flood and Drain)(problemoz wif plantz)(need tips)(pics)
- Thread starter arcalion
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Randomblame
Well-Known Member
Night temps doesn't matter so much when it comes to VPD. The humidity below the fixture could be much lower with lights on. My humidity sensor hangs directly between the tops because there was a 10% difference to the values I get when mounted on the wall. Every time my plants looks droopy it has something to do with the enviromental conditions. As soon as all is within a certain range again they perk up again. There are a few differences to HPS growing.
growingforfun
Well-Known Member
Imo it's best to start giving bloom nutes a week before flower and also continue giving veg nutes a week or 2 into bloom. Helps flower set faster ime.
Fourtwentysmokinplenty
Member
The water needs to be more oxygenated and an old timer told me water temperatures affect oxygen levels
nfhiggs
Well-Known Member
Yup, cold water holds more oxygen. Thats why salmon and steelhead will start to die off if the water gets into the 70's.
Rocket Soul
Well-Known Member
Your plants look hungry and droopy. Im Iith Random, i i think your plants arent transpiring properly, no transpiration then they dont uptake any water, no drinking then no nutes uptake, nomatter what you put your EC at. Get your environment right, check the VPD sheet he posted and make sure your cannopy enviroment is in line. Generally it would mean temps around 25C and rh 60-70 ish if your spectrum is low on IR.
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
With H2O2 one could add some oxygen and keep the res clean.
I would rather have 65°C res temps to avoid issues with pathogenes. Maybe you need to run the res from outside of the tent. With up to 85°F inside the tent it's impossible to keep the reservoir temps around 65°F unless you use an additional chiller.
That's another issue with LED and high ambient temps..
The plants in the first two pictures look like they did not get enough nitrogen and phosphorus in the growth stage. The stems and leaf stems too have purple discolorations almost everywhere, the leaves are only bright green, and the lower leaves die too early in the flower stage. Most of them can not happen in only two days...
In the growth tent increase the nutrient concentration by 25% and regularly add 5ml CalMag per gal. from the 2nd veg week. It's important that enough of this elements are already available while the plants are growing(these elements are immobile). You need less CalMag when they stop stretching.
I would rather have 65°C res temps to avoid issues with pathogenes. Maybe you need to run the res from outside of the tent. With up to 85°F inside the tent it's impossible to keep the reservoir temps around 65°F unless you use an additional chiller.
That's another issue with LED and high ambient temps..
The plants in the first two pictures look like they did not get enough nitrogen and phosphorus in the growth stage. The stems and leaf stems too have purple discolorations almost everywhere, the leaves are only bright green, and the lower leaves die too early in the flower stage. Most of them can not happen in only two days...
In the growth tent increase the nutrient concentration by 25% and regularly add 5ml CalMag per gal. from the 2nd veg week. It's important that enough of this elements are already available while the plants are growing(these elements are immobile). You need less CalMag when they stop stretching.
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arcalion
Well-Known Member
guys my res is always 65-68 in my flower room,
im going with the the people who've said that you still need grow nutes in flower for first couple weeks,
1-2weeks before putting my plants into flower they were getting purple stems, i believe it might have happened because i was underfeeding them i was at 0.6 - 0.8 ECs at the time. so what i did was exchange all the res water with new Nutes so that i had a balance of nutes again because i might have been getting more deficient in some of the macro nutrients. they perked right up after i did that. it somewhat reversed the purple stems and starting growing better
i did one final feed in my veg room and brought them into the flower room and they looked fine and great, once two days came along i just gave them straight BLOOM food with the same ECs with no Grow food, which was working at the time
i feel like my plants might have been confused with the drastic change in nutes
im going with the the people who've said that you still need grow nutes in flower for first couple weeks,
1-2weeks before putting my plants into flower they were getting purple stems, i believe it might have happened because i was underfeeding them i was at 0.6 - 0.8 ECs at the time. so what i did was exchange all the res water with new Nutes so that i had a balance of nutes again because i might have been getting more deficient in some of the macro nutrients. they perked right up after i did that. it somewhat reversed the purple stems and starting growing better
i did one final feed in my veg room and brought them into the flower room and they looked fine and great, once two days came along i just gave them straight BLOOM food with the same ECs with no Grow food, which was working at the time
i feel like my plants might have been confused with the drastic change in nutes
nfhiggs
Well-Known Member
I just use Bloom nutes from start to finish now. With Grow nutes I kept seeing N-tox every few weeks.
arcalion
Well-Known Member
whats the breakdown of your bloom nutes?
nfhiggs
Well-Known Member
I was using GH Maxibloom which is 5-15-14. Way less N than most grow nutes but I have not had any issues with N deficiency in Veg - fact, it stopped my periodic N-tox I kept seeing with the GH MaxiGro.
With the plants I just started I'm using MegaCrop. I'm not sure what the numbers are on it.
Cx2H
Well-Known Member
Not the first rodeo my friend. We'll get you straightened out.
JohnDee
Well-Known Member
And don't forget the flood timing thing. You were allowing the cubes to dry a bit which from everything I've read is bad.
In Holland the grow greenhouses full of commercial crops on rockwool...but always top drip.
I have done E&F with hydroton feeding x5 daily with excellent and healthy results. I know...different media.
I'd use that tray with cubes and plumb it for top drip.
JD
ive had serious issues with bringing my ladies from veg to bloom (separate rooms)… like full plant droop, purple stems, and hermies. now I am OCD about putting multiple temperature and humidity gauges in each room and matching them. I keep both veg and bloom room ACs set to 70 but because of the differences in the rooms (different ac's, different insulation, wattage load, airflow etc) my veg room is really about 80-85* near canopy and my bloom room is 70-73* near canopy. so now I just set my bloom AC to 77 and it keeps the room 77-80. then every other day I lower it one degree until its set to 70*
edit: im pretty sure I was damaging the root zone because my problems included a plethora of different symptoms (full leaf droop, stiff purple stems, yellowing, patches of brown spots, dying leaves, and eventually hermies) and they were praying and beautiful 100% health before the switch.
also I put my gavitas at 600w and work them up every couple of days as well
edit: im pretty sure I was damaging the root zone because my problems included a plethora of different symptoms (full leaf droop, stiff purple stems, yellowing, patches of brown spots, dying leaves, and eventually hermies) and they were praying and beautiful 100% health before the switch.
also I put my gavitas at 600w and work them up every couple of days as well
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