1oz+ per plant SoG, doable?

RobMar said:

I veg for 10 days and I average just over an ounce per plant.

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what light set up do you use? Could you give us a little more info on your set up and number of plants. Great work

RobMar

Read that before. You still have not written the total weeks of budding so the final yield means little. Besides this is a thread about SOG not tall widely spaced plants. Three foot plus plants is some extreme stretching for 10 days of vegging and hardly puts them in the typical SOG realm.

MostlyCrazy said:

Q,

That what you have to decide also. If you are going colas only you will get a bigger cola from a bigger plant with a bigger stem with bigger roots. It's like the difference of the nutes being able to take the interstate or a country road to the budsite. Sometimes when a young plant has in essence a baby it is smaller than if the plant was more mature. The real change in vegging it is to let the plant grow some bud producing branch growth. Some strains are very branchy while others work better as a single cola or some combination of the two.

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would super cropping help, in this guys case?

I base things in a SOG grow on having more than a few roots on the young plants rather than any other factor. If I could get good roots established in 10 days I would start budding at 14 days, if it takes 21 days to get a good root system then I bud at 21 days etc etc. Top growth as long as it occurs enough to produce one or two cuttings is enough for me as I do not cut cuttings from mother plants as a routine as the cuttings seem to finish at different times more so when taken from different levels of mother plants. I harvest a grow all at once not in parts.

I think we are all trying to get as many bud sites to see the light as possible. With Sog it happens at 1' and with mature plants and a well managed canopy you get I get it at about 3'.

The heavy brancing strains lend themselves to supercropping. Height limits can also come into play. Before I did my recent modifications my max finish height was about 36". Had a couple buds get to 32" and I supercropped them moderatly (45 degree angle instead of my usual 90 degree angle. I supercrop for canopy management and an even canopy mostly.

tat2ue said:

I have gotten close to 1oz per plant (dried) but not quite. My setup is clones go straight to flower once clones have good roots. also I cut larger than average clones to begin with. My setup is perpetual with 40 plants harvested every 2 to three weeks. But co2 will be a must to get some size them.

Best I have achieved so far is 33 zipps dried and bagged from 40 plants, which ain't so bad considering they came from 1/2 of a 3x8 table (12sq ft area)

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That is sick, I have yet to complete a full harvest on my setup... I'll be doing 16 plants in two 2'x4' trays in my 5x5 hut.... I'll also have my trays waist high (no bending over), one week veg, tryin for 1 1/2 zips per plant, maybe i'll match you

Buddreams said:

would super cropping help, in this guys case?

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No super cropping lengthens veg time from what I've read

That hasn't been my experience. Box says 55-60 days and I cut at 8 weeks or slightly less each time and supercrop freely.

The Good Doctor said:

Here is the issue with your option.

During cloning there is almost no hi impact light, and usually no real nutrients.

This means, that when you go to the flowering stage, there is nothing to work with. It is why Human Babies dont go from a diaper directly to puberty. This is what you are trying to do.

At the very least do a week of vegging, and you will see a huge difference. You can use your blooming lights for this.

But if the plants have no stored energy or nutes, why would you get the effect you want? An ounce a plant is not unrealistic, but it is with no vegging at all. Technically, your cloning period is a vegging period, but with no nutes, small roots, and no built up light energy. . . . . . . I am tending to think you will usually not get big results. Remember an ounce for a 6" plant is a shit ton!

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The Good Doctor said:

Here is the breakdown.

You can bud a clone that just started rooting. But why?

If you can stand to veg for 1 to 3 weeks, you will see bigger and better results. It is that simple. A 3" clone can be budded, but to what end? You are more likely to get more and better bud if you veg. Also how are you going to do any purning/FIM etc. if there is no veg cycle?

It can work, but you are still going to have to flower for almost the same amount of time. Even if you pull an ounce a clone(if they are less than 12" when you start I would have to bet against you), you would have pulled double or triple or more than that if you had vegged the same strain!

If the idea is time, create a cloner, vegger and flowering area. Then you can stagger your crops, and always have a bud 3 weeks or so out. If you are constantly turning clones into vegging, then trading in vegging for blooing in one area, then cropping the next area. . . and so on. You will see bigger better results quicker.

If the idea is time and space(you live with mom, at a college, roomates etc.) and you have to keep the plants small, then make sure you have a strain that tends to be small and bushy. Like blueberry or some such strain. Do not use OG, or Big Buds for this method, they love to be tall, and take 70 days just for blooming.

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I have expereminted with PPP,White Widow and Bubblegum.

A tall (7-9 inch) clone produced better results in my garden because the plants get taller for the first few weeks anyway. If it has a veg start already, the bottom branches ran out instead of staying close to the main stem and creating a big juicy bud. Maybe close to the same yield but strung out way more.


The 1-2 week vegged clones are also much harder and more tedius to harvest than a single nice cola.

No experience with co2 yet, love to try it. Maybe the next grow.

CO2 is very addictive. Once you see the increased plant vigor, growth and yield you will wonder why you tooks so long to try it. Usually with CO2 comes higher temps as you are usually sealing up your system and that means a higher effort needed to keep the humidity down. My self I run at least 62 to 70 watts per square foot, mid to high eighty temps, medium (25 psi) pressure intermittant aerophonics, with CO2 and I run 40% humidity. I use mainly an airconditioner to dehumidify, but also have a seond window air conditioner in the plant room entirely to use as a dehumidifier when I need to dehumidify and not cool. That does not often happen except at night. Window airconditioners are cheaper than dehumifiers and have basically the same efficiencies at dehumidification. I also use a combination of water and aircooled lights. I have a chiller made from a window airconditioner. The yield per operation cost is definitely more than adequate. As long as you are willing to do what it takes to balance everything in the system for fast high yield I am quite certain you will like the difference CO2 makes. Co@ should cut at least 20% off your time and improve yield 50% to 100% or more if all other adjustments and controls are also used for a good parameter balance.

fatman7574 said:

As long as you are willing to do what it takes to balance everything in the system for fast high yield I am quite certain you will like the difference CO2 makes. Co@ should cut at least 20% off your time and improve yield 50% to 100% or more if all other adjustments and controls are also used for a good parameter balance.

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you are confused as to what % extra yield co2 will give you, it is up to 20% -25%.

fuck, if i could get your claim of 50% to 100% of improved yield just for the small price of co2 that costs me £60 per grow if i use it, then i would have my own spaceshuttle by now and i could join you on your own fucking planet.
i have to call you out on this one and say that you are running off at the mouth.

I clearly did not say that just simply using a little CO2 will provide that much extra yield. I said if you bump everything up to the max so as to get all that you can with the CO2 you can get 50% to 100% greater yield. But that means also climate control a good nutrient delivery system i.e. mid or high pressure aero, higher temps, lower humidity and as much balnaced PAR as the plants can take without providing to much. You posted what I wrote and it is not what you are implying I wrote. "if all other adjustments and controls are also used for a good parameter balance," means what i just wrote. You need to do it all if you want the highest yield. If you bump one thing up you should bump evert ything else up also. CO2 will do very little if all other things are not also bumped up. Ie if you provide say 75 watts per square foot, 86 degrees at 40% humidity, a good aero system and good nutrients and just circulate fresh air into the room with a CO2 ppm of 350 you will likey just cook your plants or have stringy long internode plants at best. However take tha same room with all the same parameters and seal it up and set the CO2 ppm at 2000, you will definitely have very high yields very quickly. That is what I mean by balance every thing for fast high yield. However this typically means air conditioning, dehumidification and therefore larger investments.

greenyield said:

you are confused as to what % extra yield co2 will give you, it is up to 20% -25%.

fuck, if i could get your claim of 50% to 100% of improved yield just for the small price of co2 that costs me £60 per grow if i use it, then i would have my own spaceshuttle by now and i could join you on your own fucking planet.
i have to call you out on this one and say that you are running off at the mouth.

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Not taking side here but I have a sealed flower room (8x12) with 2 ebb and flow tables (3x8 ea) with 80 netpots per table. I have ran perpetual grow in it since March of this year with 40 rooted clones going straight into flower every 2 to 3 weeks. Ea table has 2 1000w HPS in cool tubes. Before I added CO2 to the room I was averaging about 1.0 to 1.25 lbs of dried and cured bud per 12 sf (1/2 of ea table) and on average it was taking 10 week for ea section to mature for harvest..A cpl months ago I add CO2 , added an add'l window a/c unit to supplement the central a/c duct I ran into the room, also added a dehumidifer unit to handle to god awful ammt of humidity I have where I live. I also raised my ppm in the nute tank which is a 125 gallon central tank that supplies both tables I now have everything 99% dialed in and the results are as follows....

2 weeks has been cut off each cycle to harvest

I am averaging 2 lbs of dried/ cured bud per 12 sq ft (1/2 table) as opposed to 1.0 to 1.25 lbs before

Buds are about 30% bigger and rock hard.

I ain't gonna buy the space shuttle but I am shopping for a Fat Boy for X-mas...lol

So adding CO2 to my setup and tweeking all the variables has paid off BIG time for me. So running off at the mouth...I don't think so...JMO

Bringing this back from its 2 year grave.. lol

I'm hoping people with experience on the subject will jump in.

The subject that very few people forgot to mention is what size clones they be taking.. some say 2-3" and seen 9" ones too.
i guess that has a lot to do with the final result.