400 HPS vs Spider Farmer SF 2000 Pro

herjack24 said:

I heard before about the temperature that must be kept in order for LED to work properly. It was something about not being too cold, but i don't know which temp it's fine and why is that important. Maybe you could explain why LED's need hotter temps.
Also, this is important because i understand that while some strains do well in warmer climate, others must be grow in lighter temps.
So i assume if some choose LED as lights source, they must also choose a strain that is recommended to be grow in a warmer environment.
On the other hand, if HPS is used, some need to choose a strain that need cooler environment.
Correct me if i'm wrong and please explain the LED temp thing. Why they need higher temps?

Thanks

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Leds dont carry any infrared radiation, in difference to any other light source (that i know of, maybe fireflies?)
So plants have allways evolved with some heat on their leaves. Without that heat 2 problems arise: insufficient transpiration; drinking slower, and slower metabolism in comparison to the amount of light your giving the plants. For transpiration you can use VPD to calculate what temps and rh will push the plant correctly to drink thru their roots and uptake nutrients. This means youll have to be able to control the environment better than your standard hps grow.

Metabolism: at higher light levels the plant needs a high metabolism. Metabolism is favored by heat, a little bit like the body raises temps (fever) when it needs to work harder to fight of an infection. While sun and other lights always supply some heat radiation leds dont. So increasing light levels without increasing heat can make the plant too sluggish to be able to take the extra light.

This having to control the environment, both temps and rh and both up and down, is not always easy, it requires machines really, dehuey/heater/AC. Some setups where tents and watts just seem to match up nicely seem to work with no probs, so e other setups, especially in open space with air venting in fron the outside, seems to have a bit more problems.

What to do? Keep temps up a bit, 80-84F for full flower intensity. And keep rh in line more or less with VPD. If this is hard the old timer trick is to drop in an incandescent light bulb to go with the leds. But be careful, too much incandescent watts and youll end up seeing a lot of stretch. Better use a dimmer or even a few smaller bulbs, where you use as many as the current situation needs for a healthy looking plant stance: when the plant transpires well youll see praying leaves and generally less droopy plant. Especially careful with incandescent when you have your leds dimmed: dont use a high ratio of incandescent to leds.

alaskanthunderf said:

You May Want to Use one For vegetation period, seedlings and Clones and the other one For flowering.
For the veg Chamber Take This one

HLG 100 Rspec®

HLG 100 Rspec® uses a high efficiency white light Quantum Boards®.Equivalent to 220W T5 or 300W CFL output or 200W metal halide

horticulturelightinggroup.com

And For flowering Chamber two of These or If two of These are to expensive start Out with one and get the second one later

EVO 3-100 1.5 - sanlight.com

SANlight EVO 3-100 Hocheffizientes LED Pflanzenbelichtungssystem für Indoor Anwendungen.

www.sanlight.com

And If you wanna do veg somewhere Else Put the sanlights in both boxes.

And No i See No reason in the First scenario to Use HPS because temps at 22 degrees Celsius...

These LEDs will do a perfect Job and please you in both scenarios

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Your recommendations sounds a little pricey for what i expect from my next grow session. I thought a light panel such as SF 2000 will be enough to produce somewhere around 100g or so from a single grow. It's been a while (8 years) since i haven't smoked weed and rather than buying i decided to grow it myself. I won't do it regularly, so that's why i don't want to spend too much money on the setup. Some reviewers said that 10 ounces can be made using SF 2000. If that's correct, then it's perfect.
Also i found someone saying on this forum that some LED manufacturers are hiding the fact that some may encounter bad situations due to LED system overheating that, he said, can cost you your life. I don't know if he is exagerating or it's true, but i have read another comment on Amazon from someone saying his SF2000 power cord got really hot at some point and he contacted SF to solve this issue. I hope nothing dangerous will happen to me if will buy one of their products. That being said, i'll try to find some people that have used SF2000 for their grow and compare their yelds with the one mentioned by SF.

Most if not all of them are made in china, not hard to understand problems could arise.
Some people experienced malfunctions like over heating or burning but thats not a factor when buying one.

DanKiller said:

Leds show us spreading is better from adding, putting 2 x 400w in good reflectors inside 4x4 will have sufficient coverage, 2 x 600w will kill it.
The only time I use a 1000w de is in a xxxxl 1.10m x 1.10m hood in big rooms, putting this kind of lamp in a kinda small reflector and in tents... Just not this bulb cup of tea and won't get you where your going actually.

I just finished a run in a 8x4 with 3 x 400w hps, got like 1200g, adding more plants I can reach 1500-1800 easy, spreading light is key.
In theory putting some 5 x 250w should have gave even better results in that space due to creating more light distributing hot spots(bulbs)

The problem with leds today as it's hard to know their total light output, everything is in ppfd which means final space count and not initial outputof the system.
According to my math in terms of output the 750w hps is equivalent to the e1700 led in output, not in spreading haha, which is close in wattage use.
The 1000w bulbs rank at 170k LM now, the 400v ones anyways, you'll need a 800w led at least to match that.
When cooler temps becomes an issue you understand leds advantage is obsolete to HIDs.
That's why both of them are good in their own aspect, leds are not orientated to to home grower as much as they would like simply because it creates problems for the avg grower.
No one is buying a tent and light system to adapt to the hateful "learning curve" of leds or spend thousands on heaters or AC electrity just to keep temp in check.. thats not logical.
People grow with leds at 70-77F, 70 rh, crazy people, just to be in the hype
Every year a new iphone comes out and people rush to buy, it's same here, just wannabe part of the hype.

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I have asked Spider Farmer about the temps that the environment must met in order for the lights to work properly as recommended and on the forum they provided with this image below, and by email they wrote the lights work anywhere betweeen -20°C to 35°C.
What do you think about this?

This is a very general chart, basically what they are saying is you can grow in each of those temps and it will be fine...
But in real life stuff are different, we all know a car can run when the engine is at 60c but we also know the engine optimal range is 90c.
So, it's more about what you grow and to what goal, plant science is very easy, just search for it.
To short your trip, I'll give you the optimal numbers from my research and experience, you can still grow under or above them sure.

Seedlings: 26-28c / 40-60 RH
Veg: 29-31c / 65-85 RH
Start of Flower: 28-30c / 55-75 RH
Flower: 27-29c / 50-65 RH
End of Flower: 18-24c / 20-35 RH

*Add more RH during Flower and you'll have even bigger buds but a high risk of mold.
*Try to achieve the lowest temps (day and night) and RH during End of Flower after the bulking up has finished.
*All numbers provided are for solid avg setting setup, if your gonna fluctuate, you'll suffer as your on the optimal range of things with less margin for errors.

Everyone’s given you overly-complicated answers, lol. To answer your original question, simply, - the spider farmer will grow one large plant, or 2 medium/smaller plants. I have 2 of these panels, and have grown one plant each under them several times. I get 5-8 oz per plant under that size panel, in a 15 gal pot. My last grow was 2 plants, under 2 200 watt SF panels - for 15 oz - no net, no C02, no automation, no temp controllers or humidifiers. Keep a decent environment and you’ll be fine.