stardustsailor
Well-Known Member
Day 21,since seedlings emerged.
Stage : 1016
18/6 at 1000mA from today.
Stage : 1016
18/6 at 1000mA from today.
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4x CXA3070 Z4 .Further Tests.
- Thread starter stardustsailor
- Start date
stardustsailor
Well-Known Member
stardustsailor
Well-Known Member
No,actually.
Ambient is ~35 C ,'cause I can't do much about it .
This time of year ,days are pretty hot ,around here.
( Right now ,time is 09:30 am and already ,temperature at shade is ~31C .
By noon it will rise some degrees more ... )
But I think ,under the CXA plants will remain shorter than this ones...LOL ! :
Cheers.
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medicinehuman
Well-Known Member
My WWidows seem to not mind the heat, super sticky and a little early. Just have to stay below 90 degrees F. Not sure above that but they still look good at 90F.
ficklejester
Well-Known Member
Not well-versed on wavelengths and PAR, but could you explain why you're using 3000K LEDs as opposed to a more blue/purple/magenta/red wavelength?
medicinehuman
Well-Known Member
Here is some under CXA's, they are a lot shorter at 37 day's flower.
The one on left was runt at 11" and the right one was 12" at start. Now they are 16" on right and 17" on left with 3-4 weeks left I'm guessing. Went 34 day's at 1400mA and now going the rest @ 800mA. Medicann Cali Jack.
The one on left was runt at 11" and the right one was 12" at start. Now they are 16" on right and 17" on left with 3-4 weeks left I'm guessing. Went 34 day's at 1400mA and now going the rest @ 800mA. Medicann Cali Jack.
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stardustsailor
Well-Known Member
Yes ,same here...Well they don't call it HELLAS for nothing!
be safe and cool friend
Edit......looked at the videos^^ and was wondering what the growing "laws" are like in Greece? I know in Italy your NOT getting away with that!
Thelaws about mj ...
Worse than Italy ,actually...
But ...
From what I've read on the vid's comments ,
actually it is an ' op ' of a / the whole neighbourhood !!!
And yes ,the area that they state,that this neighbourhood belongs ( West Athen's Suburbs )...
It's not a 'good' area,let's say ....
Kinda of 'wild' things going on ,there ,plenty of times ...
Cheers.
stardustsailor
Well-Known Member
Because that is to what I trust and believe as truth !
It's my personal religion,actually.
There are ,of course plenty of researches and experiments ,
which state the differencies ,the pros and the cons of
Red/Blue combos of monochromatic leds versus the phosphor conversion ones ..
Does anyone care ,actually ?
Let me tell you a secret ...
Best 'spectrum' is ..power .
But in order to have plenty of the latter ,
you will need many other wavelengths,
along with red and blue ones ...
Light signals that even say "Stall! Slow down " ,if needed ...
Now,if you add up ,all those different
wls ?
White light .
I'm tellin' you ...
It's more of a religion ...
At least ...
Well ...
Plenty of 'miracles' ,are showing up ,lately ...
Just Amazing what some 'fried eggs' can achieve !!!
Stoned as a brick .
Cheers.
reasonevangelist
Well-Known Member
stardustsailor
Well-Known Member
My favourest strain (100% pure personal preference,nothing more than that !) actually ,
performs good up to 37-38 C ...
That is the White Russian .
("Old school" euro strain, Indica dom . Great yielder ,great herb.
' Easy-growing' plant,always 'hungry-thirsty ' for more light,nutes & water ...
If it was a dog it would be a ... Rottweiler...Something like that ... )
AK47 x White Widow = White Russian.
NYC Diesel ,seems to withstand high temps also...
Greengenes707
Well-Known Member
How long have I been saying that...Amen brother!!!
Plants are looking solid. Great structure.
epicfail
Well-Known Member
And the award for being the first to bring up a commercial panel in a DIY thread goes to..
(Drum Roll please)
@PetFlora and his BML SPYDR.
Here he is now, comparing his $1000 Disco Light to the Cree Cxa3070
(Drum Roll please)
@PetFlora and his BML SPYDR.
Here he is now, comparing his $1000 Disco Light to the Cree Cxa3070
$1000 sure gets you a lot of COBs to spread and people (plural) are getting > 1GPW with them.
PetFlora
Well-Known Member
Supra,
As to running hot, the heat sink gets too hot to grab, but is it hotter than any other? Dunno
Because I used an open DIY wood frame (room is dark) I decided to blow air over the heat sink from a 12' fan. I positioned it so that half was above and half was below, gently fanning the canopy
When I told BML what I was up to he replied that it would increase PAR, apparently due to less heat loss
Quite possibly extend diode life as well
As to running hot, the heat sink gets too hot to grab, but is it hotter than any other? Dunno
Because I used an open DIY wood frame (room is dark) I decided to blow air over the heat sink from a 12' fan. I positioned it so that half was above and half was below, gently fanning the canopy
When I told BML what I was up to he replied that it would increase PAR, apparently due to less heat loss
Quite possibly extend diode life as well
SupraSPL
Well-Known Member
Yes ideally the heatsink should be barely warm to the touch. You could gain as much as 15% more light by bringing the temps down from "too hot to touch" to "slightly warm to the touch". This is especially important with reds.
The problem is, if we expend a lot of watts cooling it with the fan, we might actually come out worse off. So it is important to design the lamp with sufficient surface area and efficient means of cooling. For example, a small 1W fan can do alot of cooling work if it has sufficient surface area to work with and if it matches the profile of the heatsink so that it blows air into all the channels.
The problem is, if we expend a lot of watts cooling it with the fan, we might actually come out worse off. So it is important to design the lamp with sufficient surface area and efficient means of cooling. For example, a small 1W fan can do alot of cooling work if it has sufficient surface area to work with and if it matches the profile of the heatsink so that it blows air into all the channels.