8X8 autoflower grow need some setup advice please.

at 60-70%, why not? I did the same pretty much in a 5x5.
Hung four 220w fixtures in it, limited the area to 5x4, tilted the fixtures inwards.
Running at 2.4 umol/w @ 660w with superb spread.

I just think you could do better with ViparSpectra's KS5000 they only use 500w but Samsungs new LM301h Chips!
They are super efficient.
The KS5000 is said to replace a 1000w HPS, will I only need 2 of those then?
 

sh0wtime

Well-Known Member
The KS5000 is said to replace a 1000w HPS, will I only need 2 of those then?
Personally If i could afford it, I would probably hang 6 220w modules in my 5x5 and run them at 50% rather than having to run 3 at 100% and not cover everything well.

1.) Higher efficiency
2.) probably less heat
3.) better uniformity
4.) LEDs won't burn out as quick.

So if you can afford it, in my opinion it will pay to hang 4 in there.
 
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bk78

Well-Known Member
Personally If i could afford it, I would probably hang 6 220w modules in my 5x5 and run them at 50% rather than having to run 3 at 100% and not cover everything well.

1.) Higher efficiency
2.) proably less heat
3.) better uniformity
4.) LEDs won't burn out as quick.

So if you can afford it, in my opinion it will pay to hang 4 in there.
4 500w is under lit for a 8x8 even though?
at 60-70%, why not? I did the same pretty much in a 5x5.
Hung four 220w fixtures in it, limited the area to 5x4, tilted the fixtures inwards.
Running at 2.4 umol/w @ 660w with superb spread.

I just think you could do better with ViparSpectra's KS5000 they only use 500w but Samsungs new LM301h Chips!
They are super efficient.

Any pics of your set up?
 

sh0wtime

Well-Known Member
4 500w is under lit for a 8x8 even though?
I mean if you're worried you can hang some fohse f1v in there with 1000w, but if I can light out a 5x4 area over 900umol/s average with 660w that's 1.8 m² you will have plenty of light with 2000w in a 8x8 that's 5.75m² area no?
And mind you those LM301H chips are more efficient than LM301B.

edit or go for maxibright daylight 660w pro? these are killer for 4x4.
Migro Testing the Maxibright Daylight
 
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Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
I mean if you're worried you can hang some fohse f1v in there with 1000w, but if I can light out a 5x4 area over 900umol/s average with 660w that's 1.8 m² you will have plenty of light with 2000w in a 8x8 that's 5.75m² area no?
And mind you those LM301H chips are more efficient than LM301B.

edit or go for maxibright daylight 660w pro? these are killer for 4x4.
Migro Testing the Maxibright Daylight
You need to factor in light throw and hanging height, his only got 6.5 feet height.

OP: with autos on 20 hour light on you can no use 15-20w per square foot but you defo need several bartype fixtures for light spread.
Growing with less watts for longer hours spectrum seems to play in more than your typical 12h flower
 

sh0wtime

Well-Known Member
Why would you go 36" above the canopy? Those are LED lights, not HPS.
They are designed to hang close to your plants, no?

Why would you blast a tent with 1000 watt when you can go 50cm lower and only use 500w and have the same result?
 

Thai Fox

Well-Known Member
Why would you go 36" above the canopy? Those are LED lights, not HPS.
They are designed to hang close to your plants, no?

Why would you blast a tent with 1000 watt when you can go 50cm lower and only use 500w and have the same result?
Hi, do you have a rough guide for led light height and power settings please. Cheers
 

sh0wtime

Well-Known Member
Hi, do you have a rough guide for led light height and power settings please. Cheers
Recommended PPFD levels for cannabis:

75-150 µmol/m²/s for cuttings,
100-300 µmol/m²/s for seedlings.
300-600 µmol/m²/s
for the vegetative stage
over 600 µmol/m²/s
in the reproductive phase

You could go as high as 800-900 umol/m²/s in flower if you got everything dialed in.

Just use your phone there's apps called Photone or PPFD Meter to measure your light outputs.

Pretty much it's like roasting a chicken, you wanna get that sh*t done and taste delicious, but not burn it.

Joke's aside, try see what values you're geting at 50% and at 100% @ 20" height would be a starting point, go from there.

Just keep in mind the higher you hang your light, the more photons are reflected by the wall instead of hitting your plants directly.
But you don't wanna go too crazy cause too much light can burn your plants without radiating alot of heat.
 

Thai Fox

Well-Known Member
Recommended PPFD levels for cannabis:

75-150 µmol/m²/s for cuttings,
100-300 µmol/m²/s for seedlings.
300-600 µmol/m²/s
for the vegetative stage
over 600 µmol/m²/s
in the reproductive phase

You could go as high as 800-900 umol/m²/s in flower if you got everything dialed in.

Just use your phone there's apps called Photone or PPFD Meter to measure your light outputs.

Pretty much it's like roasting a chicken, you wanna get that sh*t done and taste delicious, but not burn it.

Joke's aside, try see what values you're geting at 50% and at 100% @ 20" height would be a starting point, go from there.

Just keep in mind the higher you hang your light, the more photons are reflected by the wall instead of hitting your plants directly.
But you don't wanna go too crazy cause too much light can burn your plants without radiating alot of heat.
Cheers, appreciate the advice. I have a lux meter and infra-red thermometer on the way to help dial room in. Currently have lights at 30" from pot but will look to lower a few inches from there by the sounds of things.
 

Blue brother

Well-Known Member
As said above I would go with photos just for the simple fact that you can start pheno hunting straight off the bat. Finding a solid pheno or 4 will be a huge improvement for the next run.

also with the lights, I’m a firm believer of having plenty and if u can’t keep ur other parameters good enough to use it all you can dim them down, I know you can use a 500 to flower a 4x4 but what’s the point if the plants can utilise more, more light generally means more yield and higher quality if all other things are kept sweet.

I’m not gonna reccomend a specific light, I use pretty much outdated hlg diablos but they’re still decent and I wudnt wanna be under 600w per 4x4. That’s not to say less won’t work, I just like to get more if possible wherever and whenever possible

there’s a Chinese brand called kingbrite who make decent budget friendly lights, that I can personally say are good enough. Too many shady tactics used by Amazon sellers have got people using seriously under powered lights and expecting stellar results.

hope this helps
 

John Rollwan

Well-Known Member
I’m almost a pure photo grower, however, auto’s are ready to smoke 6-10 weeks before photo’s every time. Even SoG 4-8 weeks behind an auto.

if you’re running photo seedlings directly into flower, you’re basically auto flowering anyways with chance the plant refuses it and vegetates anyways.

photos advantage comes, in my opinion, if you have a second room. You can infinitely vegetate and dictate the size, style, shape of your plant with good care. If they’ve vegetated awhile, they flip to flower way easier, faster in my experience. Or you can run them as they hit 12-18” SoG style single cola. Then obviously higher THC and yield than auto’s can get to currently and the rotated tents allows you to harvest every couple months. Really 6-12 weeks after you flip any plant out of veg room assuming it has canopy space.
 

sh0wtime

Well-Known Member
Cheers, use 'natural daylight' for full spectrum lights?
High CRI LED 4000K seems to cover my spectrum best, if you got some with less blue I guess the 3000K is fine.
We're near the sunlight with LED fixtures, but still far apart. ;)
 
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