#1Raiderfan420
Well-Known Member
you dont even need that... try this, its much cheaper and does the same thing.
you'll just have to fashion a cord going from the timer to the relay coil
Right on bud, I appreciate the help.

you dont even need that... try this, its much cheaper and does the same thing.
you'll just have to fashion a cord going from the timer to the relay coil
yes that is a stupid idea (using electrical tape to splice it back together)So i have the seemore buds book and he recommends cutting an extension cord at attaching it to a light fixture. Is this a stupid idea?
And i also have an extension cord with a socket attached. If i cut it in half to get it though a hole a a board and thn splice it back together just using electrical tape, is that a stupid idea? If it is, how can i make it safe?
mhmm. just as i figured. looking like i might want to either get a few more cfls or just get a ballast.... thanks a lot though. happy late birthday that i forgot to mention. and again thanks, i will for surely be back to this thread for some more electrical wisdom.in all honesty, i have never seen an hid lamp that didnt require a ballast. if they are now being made with a ballast incorporated into the base like a cfl, its something new i have not run across yet
yes that is a stupid idea (using electrical tape to splice it back together)
you need to use wirenuts, tan ones, to be exact. i say tan because wirenuts are color coded by size, the brand doesnt matter. if you dont, the connection will be to loose and it will cause a fire.. so be careful.
as far as actually cutting a cord and using it to feed a light fixture this is a great idea, i do it all the time myself.![]()
as long as the connections are tight, it should be fine, it would be best if you put a layer of electrical tape between the connections on the back of the porcelain socket and the wood. you shouldnt have to tape up wirenuts either, but you can if you want to, ordinarily i dontAhh thank you thank you. Should i then wrap electrical tape around the wire nuts or is this unnecessary?
One more thing, i have porcelain light fixtures but i forgot to get the metal bases for it. Is it ok to just screw the fixture to the wood, ,with the wires touching the wood, or is this asking for trouble?
Much appreciated.
absolutely not. not ever. no waycan i use the white wire for a ground if there is no green wire or a ground
I just want to say thanks man for helping me with the wirirng of my sentinel 8 light controller. Everything went smoothly. Only weird thing is one of the sides of the controller doesnt work, so only 4 work, which is fine sice im just running 4 lights right now
im familiar with the european color code...$piceM£rchant;3639560 said:hi Im in the uk, dont know alot about wiring but our colours of wires are, http://www.leadsdirect.co.uk/images/technical/uk%20mains%20plug%20wiring.png ere a diagram of our plugs
ive just bought a fan speen controller i need to wire it has 5 places to put wires into (plastic boxes with metal screw on the top)
labelled UZ, U, Z, L and N in that order then to the right it has another box not connected to the main circuit bored with a green and yellow wire coming out, i think this bits for the earth cabel from the plug.
so where do the other wires go? also theres a box labeled 'supply' drawn around all the boxes except for N
i would say its a good bet that different manufacturers will use different parts. some will be interchangable, some will not... kinda roll of the dice on that one.stupid question but my hydrofarm socket cord set doesnt seem to mount to my air cooled hood so do i need a certain mounting kit or are all hoods interchangeable with diff sockets? thanks.
i used to work as am electrician....
test me will you?????
ok.. you asked for it.
how many circular mils should the neutral conductor be on a 3phase, open delta 120/240/208v continous duty service entry conductor sized for 2000amp service? the length of the wire is 212 feet.
weooooaaaahhhh?????
are u nuts.....
i did residential work .....
im good at dry wall too....
lol, ok, there are lots of things to consider here:Reading the whole thread, but so far (on posts currently on post #161) these made me realize I was LOL at 5am while everyone in the house was sleeping.
Sending some Karma your way, I'm sure I'll learn some in this thread and may even hit you up with some detailed questions, for now a quick one:
I plan on running 3/0 wire to a sub panel. I plan on using wire taps (wearing big ass rubber gloves and rubber boots, standing on plywood with a rubber pad!) and clamping into my main panel feed lines (looks like 200A service)
My local hardware store carries copper as well as aluminum 3/0 and the aluminum is much cheaper yet still rated 3/0. I will be doing an approx 50ft run and looks like equipment in this room be pulling 90-100 amps (most of it 240v).
Any reason I would dish out twice the $ for copper?
I was planning on running the two 110's into the sub box and then running several grounds across to the grounds in the main panel, will this work ro should I run a dedicated grounding rod?
Cheers!