Adding deep & far reds to Quantum Board build

[OLD MOTHER SATIVA]

"SSGrower, post: 14030133, member: 926731"]Been talkin to torotoke have you? 8hr flower?



he proved it worked ..

rather than guys like you who don't experiment actually listening ...he got trolled and split..wtg

 

[PSUAGRO.]

Just properly insulate the room(s) + reflective paint on the roof and add highly efficient mini splits, some reaching 33 SEER now, no losses from ducting or long water lines............with minimal hassles & complexities plus a warranty

can't beat it IMO

 

[mahiluana]

water might be more valuabe than electricity

look to Israel - they are champions in growing tomatoes in the desert - they are very efficient
in recycling water

https://ensia.com/voices/12-tips-for-moving-from-water-scarcity-to-abundance/

 

[SSGrower]

"SSGrower, post: 14030133, member: 926731"]Been talkin to torotoke have you? 8hr flower?



he proved it worked ..

rather than guys like you who don't experiment actually listening ...he got trolled and split..wtg

FYI I support torontotoke, check my posting history.

He's still around started new thread

 

[Toohighmf]

This is a huge permitted grow. We’re building 90 of these 9 fixture rooms.
The property has been graded. Aquifer drilled, water reclamation/recycler/sterilizer etc. Sewer Run, and power is being dropped. Rooms are stacked 3 high with mezzanine and stairs. We’re talking 3x 8 hour shifts for 10 guys per crew. We’re not just doing 1 or 2 of these. Can’t just pick up and move. The license is for this property only.

This is the clients grow, and he’s also going to retail these rooms out. We won’t be running 90 mini splits lol. Definitely working with Surna to run a series of evaporative coolers and duct systems with desiccant filtration etc.

 

[PSUAGRO.]

I didn't realize the scale...............not mini split territory

hell of a project , good luck

 

[Toohighmf]

Thanks @PSUAGRO. I been growing professionally indoors for over 20 years. Started a consultancy/contractor firm the day Cali went legal. This is my first client. He had a vision but knows absolutely nothing about growing, or the needs of a grow. That’s where we come in.

Honestly, not my style or first choice of builds but, it’s a challenge and the pay is good. Once we design/produce him his lights and train/schedule his operation, We out!

 

[Toohighmf]

Been talkin to torotoke have you? 8hr flower?


If im visualising and remembering properly, you still have ac units running to cool the area in addition to the 240w of fans running cool tubes? The only way it would work is if you no longer had to run the room ac, or dich the chiller (which dosent seem to be a viable option for you, but others like me that have to constanly add heat to the lower ambient temps a radiator works, no chiller needed.)

No. Not 8 hour respirative cycles. 3x 8 hour work shifts, as this is a huge undertaking. though I’ll probably try 11/13 or 10-14 to save on utilities. Depends on how well I can manage temps and humidity in a sealed room overnight. To me it’s the hardest to maintain in the world of VPD.
These pods have temp/humidity full room evac systems in place that should work just fine but we really won’t kbow until we test in the middle of the desert at night.

 

[SSGrower]

No. Not 8 hour respirative cycles. 3x 8 hour work shifts, as this is a huge undertaking. though I’ll probably try 11/13 or 10-14 to save on utilities. Depends on how well I can manage temps and humidity in a sealed room overnight. To me it’s the hardest to maintain in the world of VPD.
These pods have temp/humidity full room evac systems in place that should work just fine but we really won’t kbow until we test in the middle of the desert at night.

I found it curious that the thread started out as adding far red to qbs then got confused on the wording. Found it conflicting the desire to add far reds in combo with a 16 hr dark. I belive in shortened flower daylight cycles but think there is room for improvement by using far red in combination with a shortened night cycle too. In other words changing the length of day from 24 hours to something less. I wrote an arduino program that acomplishis this and will be working with it. This type of experiment would be perfect for the sealed rooms you are building. How much is your client going to rent the rooms for? (JK I know I can't afford it).

You've got some challenges ahead.

 

[Toohighmf]

I was just trying to broaden spectrum to get a little more oomph out the QB setup. 11/13 shouldn’t be a problem with far reds though. Challenges are good. Keeps me on my toes and helps pay my bills.

Client isn’t renting lol. They’re all for him. Though this whole project started out as just retail pods to the public which he’ll still do as single units with mini splits and air cooling.

 

[SSGrower]

I was just trying to broaden spectrum to get a little more oomph out the QB setup. 11/13 shouldn’t be a problem with far reds though. Challenges are good. Keeps me on my toes and helps pay my bills.

Client isn’t renting lol. They’re all for him. Though this whole project started out as just retail pods to the public which he’ll still do as single units with mini splits and air cooling.

If going for full day mix in 2700K at maybe 1:3 ratio for 3500K and I'd throw in a few 5000K IMO. The mono leds just don't compare effeciency wise, but if going at just lights on/off they offer lots of customization capacity.

 

[SSGrower]

Ps
I don’t understand how running a chiller large enough to cool roughly 16000 btus could EVER be as efficient as running 240w of in-line fans; both in up front costs or utilities.

That being said, Please share any diy wc links!

I knew I tucked this away somewhere. Similar scale, using modular conexs, cobs and liquid cooled.

https://www.rollitup.org/t/water-cooled-cob-build-pic-heavy.931819/page-17#post-13741258

 

[Toohighmf]

@Randomblame About to start sourcing materials for a prototype, but I think we wanna just go 2700, 3500 and 5000k strips, but I'm not sure on the ratios to be able to mimic the sun at all parallels and create presets for early veg, late veg, transition, early bloom, mid, late etc. I think we want to keep this light under 600w. probably closer to 500w (or at least 500w of peak bloom colors. (after playing with a 3000k HLG-550.) I'm pretty sure we would prefer to rock LM516C S6 strips etc but again really don't know how many diodes of say 2880 of each kelvin and which 3 drivers we should be aquiring for each of the 3 colors. What ratios do you suggest? Do you have any leads on where to get these strips and drivers? Thanks so much!

 

[welight]

just completed testing on our Solskins with out 3 channel driver/dimmer board

We use a 3 channel driver with a master/slave function so you can control 3 individual channels across multiple boards

Each board is both a 3 channel Led driver and 3 channel dimmer and can be both master and slave, so image with pots is in master mode and top image without pots will be a slave, 1 required per Solskin, so you can have say 3 led boards with 3 drivers and one has pots and controls the dimming across all 3 channels/3 boards. I have not tried the driver/dimmer on strips but theorectically. The boards are powered by a 48V Constant Voltage source ie LRS350-28 etc
Cheers
Mark

 

[Randomblame]

@Randomblame About to start sourcing materials for a prototype, but I think we wanna just go 2700, 3500 and 5000k strips, but I'm not sure on the ratios to be able to mimic the sun at all parallels and create presets for early veg, late veg, transition, early bloom, mid, late etc. I think we want to keep this light under 600w. probably closer to 500w (or at least 500w of peak bloom colors. (after playing with a 3000k HLG-550.) I'm pretty sure we would prefer to rock LM516C S6 strips etc but again really don't know how many diodes of say 2880 of each kelvin and which 3 drivers we should be aquiring for each of the 3 colors. What ratios do you suggest? Do you have any leads on where to get these strips and drivers? Thanks so much!

Hey T.
I would use 3 HLG-240H-C1050B's, which maxes out at ~285w at the wall, is fully dimmable(down to 6-10%) and has BTW the best price/performance rating of all HLG-drivers.
Connect the strips in series, each spectrum to it's own driver.
Each driver has 238v/1050mA(+1100mA actually) which is enough for five 4ft. double-row strips(1440diodes, 16s18p, each diode gets max. 60mA, thats +195lm/w or 2,8μMol/J, no heatsink required) or 5 single row strips(720 diodes, 16s9p, 117mA per diode, +175lm/w or 2,55μMol/J, c-channels recommended).
That's either 2160 or 4320 diodes and you have the abillity to mix the spectrum just the way you like it.
You could double it all again and use 3 HLG-480 for 550w on each channel, but that's a bit much, lol!

 

[VegasWinner]

I guess to simplify what I’m
Trying to achieve would be to maybe ask a little more directly. With 4 QB304’s how many deep, far red & royal, deep blue cobs would you use? And if you were to build a 6x QB, how many? Drivers?
Thank you very much!

Deep Red and Royal Blue need to be in their own ratio for proper effect. You need a ratio of 1.6:1 Royal Blue to Deep Red. To best understand, Royal Blue provides enregy increase for Deep Red to work harder. The two work together. Regarding UVA 385nm is for taste and thc improvements.

 

[Randomblame]

Deep Red and Royal Blue need to be in their own ratio for proper effect. You need a ratio of 1.6:1 Royal Blue to Deep Red. To best understand, Royal Blue provides enregy increase for Deep Red to work harder. The two work together. Regarding UVA 385nm is for taste and thc improvements.

So more blue than red ..? You have to explain that more exactly, please!
I know that blue light promotes/improves the formation of clorophyll so that other wavelengths such as red can be better utilized. But I do not understand how the higher energy content of blue photons should improve red utilization, except through the path of chlorophyll increase?

 

[Toohighmf]

@Randomblame thanks again! Would you rock equal diodes of 2700k, 3500k and 5000k or maybe 3000, 4000 & 5000? Reaching out to mfgs to get strips or a pcb made alternating the 3 different diodes, just not sure on whether or not I should be runnin equal amounts or not. Thanks again, I really appreciate you!

Hey T.
I would use 3 HLG-240H-C1050B's, which maxes out at ~285w at the wall, is fully dimmable(down to 6-10%) and has BTW the best price/performance rating of all HLG-drivers.
Connect the strips in series, each spectrum to it's own driver.
Each driver has 238v/1050mA(+1100mA actually) which is enough for five 4ft. double-row strips(1440diodes, 16s18p, each diode gets max. 60mA, thats +195lm/w or 2,8μMol/J, no heatsink required) or 5 single row strips(720 diodes, 16s9p, 117mA per diode, +175lm/w or 2,55μMol/J, c-channels recommended).
That's either 2160 or 4320 diodes and you have the abillity to mix the spectrum just the way you like it.
You could double it all again and use 3 HLG-480 for 550w on each channel, but that's a bit much, lol!

 

[Randomblame]

Thats the numbers for LM561c @wietefras has thrown in the round.
As decision support! As you can see 2700 and 3000°k have the best YPF/W numbers even if the cooler spectra from lumen view looks much more efficient.
I think 4000 and 3000°K is completely sufficient, no need to use higher kelvins! I use 3k only and see no reason to add other spectra, because everything works well and my plants looks like grown under natural sunlight.

 

[PurpleBuz]

You need a ratio of 1.6:1 Royal Blue to Deep Red. To best understand, .

ratio is backwards .... should be more like 1:3 RBlue to DRed.
Normally spectrum needs to keep the Blues < 20%.