herballuvmonkey
Well-Known Member
ok. sounds good. i was going to go with the t5 vhos anyway. they are on sale at home depot for 125.00. thanks fellas
Advanced Lighting Spectrums for T5 Floro and LED
- Thread starter Fonzarelli
- Start date
Stonefree69
Member
I think VHOs aren't worth it unless you have a big priority for penetration (flowering or big veg plants), in that case I'd try HIDs or stick w/T5 HOs. Otherwise T5 HOs rock for veg, especially clones and seedlings.
PetFlora
Well-Known Member
Thought some will get ideas from my new grow start. The tap roots broke through the starter cubes on 8/28.
8/28 Moved to my DIY bubbler with 45L/hr air pump + 4 large oxystones
I used a ufo 90 (R/B- 85:15) + a few low watt warm cfls + 1 day light ~ 18" above.
Lights were slowly lowered now ~ 10"
9/5 I took down the UFO and replaced the warm cfls with 2 @7.5w 5000k leds. Within 24 hours the leaves began to reach toward the bulbs
9/7 photos show 2 biggest @ ~ 4", next 2 not far behind. The others are lagging, partially because they are in the corners not getting enough rich oxygenated bubbles and part could be genetic expression as these are F1 seeds from my Sat dom hybrid cross
Nutes are Hydro-Research VEG+BLOOM at ~ 200ppm
In ~ 5 days will move them upstairs and under the HO T5.
Will put some in my DIY 21st Century F & D and some in my hpa pressure aero. If hpa doesn't rock it this time I am done with it
Cute, ain't they?
8/28 Moved to my DIY bubbler with 45L/hr air pump + 4 large oxystones
I used a ufo 90 (R/B- 85:15) + a few low watt warm cfls + 1 day light ~ 18" above.
Lights were slowly lowered now ~ 10"
9/5 I took down the UFO and replaced the warm cfls with 2 @7.5w 5000k leds. Within 24 hours the leaves began to reach toward the bulbs
9/7 photos show 2 biggest @ ~ 4", next 2 not far behind. The others are lagging, partially because they are in the corners not getting enough rich oxygenated bubbles and part could be genetic expression as these are F1 seeds from my Sat dom hybrid cross
Nutes are Hydro-Research VEG+BLOOM at ~ 200ppm
In ~ 5 days will move them upstairs and under the HO T5.
Will put some in my DIY 21st Century F & D and some in my hpa pressure aero. If hpa doesn't rock it this time I am done with it
Cute, ain't they?
PetFlora
Well-Known Member
I came across this today. It's a bit long but very informative. Should help with choosing correct spectrums for specific plant types
http://jxb.oxfordjournals.org/content/58/12/3099.full.pdf+html
Green light effects on leaf growth and stomatal
conductance
The effects of green light on stomatal opening noted by
Zeiger’s group were extended to whole plants by NASA
scientists. Plant growth in artificial environments remains
a key provision to long-term space colonization. Therefore
NASA scientists have explored the effects of combinatorial
light conditions on plants.
Many of these studies simply focused on the effects of
narrow-bandwidth red
and blue sources compared to conventional sources
(Brown et al., 1995; Goins et al., 1997; Yorio et al.,
2001). One central concern emerged when plants were
grown under some light conditions.
Plants grown under
red and blue LEDs appeared black or purple rendering it
difficult to monitor plant growth and health in the artificial
state. Also, miscoloured plants are not as visually
appealing to a potential crew (Kim et al., 2004a).
With the goal of making plants appear green NASA
scientists assessed the effects of green light supplementation
to a red and blue background, and discovered that
addition of this allegedly benign light quality generated
conspicuous effects. These experiments differed from
those performed by Went and Klein in that these kept
PPF constant and varied the proportion of green light
added. This approach has the advantage of keeping
metabolism static, yet the disadvantage of skewing
activation of photosensory networks that contribute to
developmental responses.
These studies also use different
species and developmental states relative to earlier studies.
For this reason the results need to be considered
independently of the previously described work.
In these reports the effects of combinatorial red, blue,
and green (RB+G) light treatments on leaf growth and
stomatal conductance in lettuce were compared to red and
blue (RB) alone (Kim et al., 2004a, b). Green light
supplied by green fluorescent lamps was added to
a background of red and blue LED light. There was very
little (if any) far-red light which is important for
discounting potential phytochrome interpretations.
The authors discovered that lettuce plants grown in RB+G
treatments displayed leaves with larger specific leaf area
and less thickness compared with RB alone (Kim et al.,
2004a). Also, plants grown under RB treatments demonstrated
higher stomatal conductance when compared with
those under RB+G, with the lowest stomatal conductance
reported in plants grown under green fluorescent lamps
alone (Kim et al., 2004b).
In addition, while stomatal
conductance was greater in cool white fluorescent treatments
than in RB+G, the dry mass of the plants was
greater in RB+G implying the weaker stomatal conductance
did not negatively affect carbon assimilation (Kim
et al., 2004b). Plant dry mass was greatest under RB+G
treatments (where 24% of the spectrum was broadband
green light) when compared with RB, the opposite of the
effects noted by Went (1957; Fig. 2). However, these
results do agree with previous findings that plants grown
in RB+G treatments displayed larger specific leaf areas
than those grown under RB treatments (Kim et al.,
2004a). These experiments demonstrate that supplemental
green affects plant physiology in conditions where red and
blue systems are saturated. It remains to be seen if these
effects are cry-dependent or cry-independent, as they were
performed in species where photoreceptor mutants are not
yet available.
Early stem elongation
The identification of green-blue reversibility in early plant
responses led to the assessment of green effects, if any, on
early stem growth rates. The elongating hypocotyl is
a dynamic organ that adjusts its growth rate to match
prevailing conditions (Parks et al., 2001) so it is an ideal
system to identify subtle contributions of light-sensing
systems. High-resolution image capture techniques were
employed with Arabidopsis mutants to identify discrete
roles of phytochromes (Parks and Spalding, 1999),
cryptochromes (Folta and Spalding, 2001), and phototropins
(Folta et al., 2003a) in acclimation to the early
light environment.
>
Pulsing Lights on Seeds
Dark-grown seedlings were given a pulse of blue light
followed by a pulse of green. A characteristic phot
response was observed, as seedlings exhibited a normal
first-phase of growth inhibition as described (Folta and
Spalding, 2001; Folta et al., 2003a). However, within
minutes, and only after receiving a green light pulse,
seedling growth would accelerate to 150% of the dark
rate.
The effect of green was unlike any previously
described, as plants would elongate at a rate that exceeded
their dark (and presumably most rapid) rate. This unusual
green-induced increase in stem elongation rate was later
examined in great detail. Single, etiolated seedlings were
tested for the elongation response to a brief green light
pulse.
Within minutes of a dim-green-safelight-quality
light pulse the dark-grown seedling would elongate faster
than it would elongate in complete darkness (Folta, 2004).
The response was dose-dependent, obeyed the Bunsen–
Roscoe Law of Reciprocity, and was observed in response
to a pulse barely detectable by eye. Green-pulse-induced
growth acceleration was transient, with growth rates
eventually braking back to those exhibited by dark-grown
seedlings within 1 h.
Most importantly, the green lightmediated
growth induction persisted in cry, phy, phot, and
npq1 mutants, indicating that the response was mediated
by redundant function between known receptor classes or
that it was initiated by a novel light sensor. Additional
experiments indicated that the green response was maintained
in a background of dim red light, suggesting that
phytochrome was not the receptor because increasing
phytochrome activation with green light would engage
growth restriction, not elongation.
The effect of green
persisted in a dim red and blue background (Folta, 2004;
SA Maruhnich and KM Folta, unpublished observation).
These findings indicated that green light was acting
antagonistically to red and blue light, as ‘safelight’ doses
of light could induce responses contrary to normal
photomorphogenic development.
Similar studies later
attributed the long-term blue-green reversibility to cry
receptors (Bouly et al., 2007) and will be discussed
further below. Together, these studies delineate cryindependent
and cry-dependent mechanisms associated
with stem elongation and acclimation to the light
environment.
Is the photosensor class complete?
Clearly, green wavebands play a potent role in regulating
plant growth and development, and at least a portion of
the responses are dependent on cryptochromes. The extent
that blue-green cryptochrome relations affect plant
responses promises to be an attractive area of further
research going forward.
Sommer and Franke (2006) presented evidence that
treatment of seeds with green lasers led to enhanced fresh
weight of plants at the time of harvest.
http://jxb.oxfordjournals.org/content/58/12/3099.full.pdf+html
Green light effects on leaf growth and stomatal
conductance
The effects of green light on stomatal opening noted by
Zeiger’s group were extended to whole plants by NASA
scientists. Plant growth in artificial environments remains
a key provision to long-term space colonization. Therefore
NASA scientists have explored the effects of combinatorial
light conditions on plants.
Many of these studies simply focused on the effects of
narrow-bandwidth red
and blue sources compared to conventional sources
(Brown et al., 1995; Goins et al., 1997; Yorio et al.,
2001). One central concern emerged when plants were
grown under some light conditions.
Plants grown under
red and blue LEDs appeared black or purple rendering it
difficult to monitor plant growth and health in the artificial
state. Also, miscoloured plants are not as visually
appealing to a potential crew (Kim et al., 2004a).
With the goal of making plants appear green NASA
scientists assessed the effects of green light supplementation
to a red and blue background, and discovered that
addition of this allegedly benign light quality generated
conspicuous effects. These experiments differed from
those performed by Went and Klein in that these kept
PPF constant and varied the proportion of green light
added. This approach has the advantage of keeping
metabolism static, yet the disadvantage of skewing
activation of photosensory networks that contribute to
developmental responses.
These studies also use different
species and developmental states relative to earlier studies.
For this reason the results need to be considered
independently of the previously described work.
In these reports the effects of combinatorial red, blue,
and green (RB+G) light treatments on leaf growth and
stomatal conductance in lettuce were compared to red and
blue (RB) alone (Kim et al., 2004a, b). Green light
supplied by green fluorescent lamps was added to
a background of red and blue LED light. There was very
little (if any) far-red light which is important for
discounting potential phytochrome interpretations.
The authors discovered that lettuce plants grown in RB+G
treatments displayed leaves with larger specific leaf area
and less thickness compared with RB alone (Kim et al.,
2004a). Also, plants grown under RB treatments demonstrated
higher stomatal conductance when compared with
those under RB+G, with the lowest stomatal conductance
reported in plants grown under green fluorescent lamps
alone (Kim et al., 2004b).
In addition, while stomatal
conductance was greater in cool white fluorescent treatments
than in RB+G, the dry mass of the plants was
greater in RB+G implying the weaker stomatal conductance
did not negatively affect carbon assimilation (Kim
et al., 2004b). Plant dry mass was greatest under RB+G
treatments (where 24% of the spectrum was broadband
green light) when compared with RB, the opposite of the
effects noted by Went (1957; Fig. 2). However, these
results do agree with previous findings that plants grown
in RB+G treatments displayed larger specific leaf areas
than those grown under RB treatments (Kim et al.,
2004a). These experiments demonstrate that supplemental
green affects plant physiology in conditions where red and
blue systems are saturated. It remains to be seen if these
effects are cry-dependent or cry-independent, as they were
performed in species where photoreceptor mutants are not
yet available.
Early stem elongation
The identification of green-blue reversibility in early plant
responses led to the assessment of green effects, if any, on
early stem growth rates. The elongating hypocotyl is
a dynamic organ that adjusts its growth rate to match
prevailing conditions (Parks et al., 2001) so it is an ideal
system to identify subtle contributions of light-sensing
systems. High-resolution image capture techniques were
employed with Arabidopsis mutants to identify discrete
roles of phytochromes (Parks and Spalding, 1999),
cryptochromes (Folta and Spalding, 2001), and phototropins
(Folta et al., 2003a) in acclimation to the early
light environment.
>
Pulsing Lights on Seeds
Dark-grown seedlings were given a pulse of blue light
followed by a pulse of green. A characteristic phot
response was observed, as seedlings exhibited a normal
first-phase of growth inhibition as described (Folta and
Spalding, 2001; Folta et al., 2003a). However, within
minutes, and only after receiving a green light pulse,
seedling growth would accelerate to 150% of the dark
rate.
The effect of green was unlike any previously
described, as plants would elongate at a rate that exceeded
their dark (and presumably most rapid) rate. This unusual
green-induced increase in stem elongation rate was later
examined in great detail. Single, etiolated seedlings were
tested for the elongation response to a brief green light
pulse.
Within minutes of a dim-green-safelight-quality
light pulse the dark-grown seedling would elongate faster
than it would elongate in complete darkness (Folta, 2004).
The response was dose-dependent, obeyed the Bunsen–
Roscoe Law of Reciprocity, and was observed in response
to a pulse barely detectable by eye. Green-pulse-induced
growth acceleration was transient, with growth rates
eventually braking back to those exhibited by dark-grown
seedlings within 1 h.
Most importantly, the green lightmediated
growth induction persisted in cry, phy, phot, and
npq1 mutants, indicating that the response was mediated
by redundant function between known receptor classes or
that it was initiated by a novel light sensor. Additional
experiments indicated that the green response was maintained
in a background of dim red light, suggesting that
phytochrome was not the receptor because increasing
phytochrome activation with green light would engage
growth restriction, not elongation.
The effect of green
persisted in a dim red and blue background (Folta, 2004;
SA Maruhnich and KM Folta, unpublished observation).
These findings indicated that green light was acting
antagonistically to red and blue light, as ‘safelight’ doses
of light could induce responses contrary to normal
photomorphogenic development.
Similar studies later
attributed the long-term blue-green reversibility to cry
receptors (Bouly et al., 2007) and will be discussed
further below. Together, these studies delineate cryindependent
and cry-dependent mechanisms associated
with stem elongation and acclimation to the light
environment.
Is the photosensor class complete?
Clearly, green wavebands play a potent role in regulating
plant growth and development, and at least a portion of
the responses are dependent on cryptochromes. The extent
that blue-green cryptochrome relations affect plant
responses promises to be an attractive area of further
research going forward.
Sommer and Franke (2006) presented evidence that
treatment of seeds with green lasers led to enhanced fresh
weight of plants at the time of harvest.
Fonzarelli
Active Member
In other words, our assumptions have been correct. Pretty much all of them.
Fonzarelli
Active Member
I'm getting ready to start prototype #2 for an all LED fixture/panel. I will then be doing a side by side test to try and figure out appropriate green:blue/red ratios. It's going to take awhile and my results won't be absolute since everyone grows different strains. I will list my strains at the time and maybe it will help at least a few along the way.
I'm 100% addicted to the DIY LED world now. If only I could find a fucking drill press that doesn't suck. EVERY SINGLE BRAND IS OUTSOURCED NOW. Not even JET TOOLS is made in the USA anymore. WTF? All made in China. I can't find a single new drill press that doesn't shake, rattle or roll. I can't believe what the USA has done to itself.
Well, at least my new .44 Redhawk grips are solid!
I think I'm going to just buy a $90 cheap piece of shit drill press and rebuild it with metal instead of plastic.
I'm 100% addicted to the DIY LED world now. If only I could find a fucking drill press that doesn't suck. EVERY SINGLE BRAND IS OUTSOURCED NOW. Not even JET TOOLS is made in the USA anymore. WTF? All made in China. I can't find a single new drill press that doesn't shake, rattle or roll. I can't believe what the USA has done to itself.
Well, at least my new .44 Redhawk grips are solid!
I think I'm going to just buy a $90 cheap piece of shit drill press and rebuild it with metal instead of plastic.
polyarcturus
Well-Known Member
long time no see... DIY LED is a hell of a hobby very fun i myslef dont have the expenditure right now.
glad to see you still roaming the net fonz. anys i got a journal now feel free to check it out.
as far as the drill press goes..... check CL someones probably selling an old one thats better quality than these new ones for cheap i find good shit like this all time especially my cars.(imports, a lot of people don know how much quality the cars are from about 87-94 .)
glad to see you still roaming the net fonz. anys i got a journal now feel free to check it out.
as far as the drill press goes..... check CL someones probably selling an old one thats better quality than these new ones for cheap i find good shit like this all time especially my cars.(imports, a lot of people don know how much quality the cars are from about 87-94 .)
PetFlora
Well-Known Member
WHITE POWER
Check out this thread for tons of excellent DIY led info https://www.rollitup.org/led-other-lighting/563118-astir-grow-led-panel-project.html
Here are some stunning results (to me) with 2 runts that have out paced the 6 stronger seedlings under 324w HO T5, from my same F1 cross. Using a 3 yo ufo 90 + supplemental multiple 1w leds screw in bulbs (and one 23w ww cfl. No drill press needed.
FYI rapidled sells predrilled/tapped heat sinks. Clearly watts alone won't get 'er dunn, plant specific spectral distribution is critical
These pics were taken 6 days ago. Plants are ~ 30-40% fuller already. Growing in a super simple diy bubbler + VEG+BLOOM nutes
I tripped over www.chinabuye.com super low prices + free shipping if you wait 2-4 weeks. I ordered a variety of kelvin rated WHITE bulbs= cool, neutral and warm whites
Check out this thread for tons of excellent DIY led info https://www.rollitup.org/led-other-lighting/563118-astir-grow-led-panel-project.html
Here are some stunning results (to me) with 2 runts that have out paced the 6 stronger seedlings under 324w HO T5, from my same F1 cross. Using a 3 yo ufo 90 + supplemental multiple 1w leds screw in bulbs (and one 23w ww cfl. No drill press needed.
FYI rapidled sells predrilled/tapped heat sinks. Clearly watts alone won't get 'er dunn, plant specific spectral distribution is critical
These pics were taken 6 days ago. Plants are ~ 30-40% fuller already. Growing in a super simple diy bubbler + VEG+BLOOM nutes
I tripped over www.chinabuye.com super low prices + free shipping if you wait 2-4 weeks. I ordered a variety of kelvin rated WHITE bulbs= cool, neutral and warm whites
Attachments
Hello everyone,
Great thread, I went through the whole thing last night! Also I have scoured the LED without LEDs, https://www.rollitup.org/indoor-growing/358190-led-without-leds-my-first-483.html#post8121951, thread too and have come to ask for some input.
I am building a grow cabinet. I have a mother area that measures 1' 1/2" L x 3' W x 4' H and want to use T5's. (total dimensions of cabinet are 6' 5" L x 3' W x 6' H)
I have found this fixture: 156W 36" 4 bulb fixture
http://www.aquabuys.com/p/WP01020.html
My questions are:
Would this be enough to veg 3 mothers in my allotted area, I am going to do a SOG and would like to take 20-30 6"-8" cuts off of them every 4 weeks?
I have (3) GH HydroFarms that were given to me, free new in boxes, I figured would be good to run the mothers in?
Also what combo of bulbs would be recommended for my demands in this fixture? It comes with two (2) SUPERBLUE 460® Lamps and two (2) SUN WAVE®Lamps. I was going to get (2) of the ULTRA GROWTH WAVE® and was wondering if it was necessary/what combo of bulbs should I run?
I guess maybe I could be the first to run the Ultra's and see what they do for veg. I just want to be sure I can produce the proper growth on the mom's for taking that many cuts...Soon as they root in the cloner, which I have yet to build an aero type, they will be going directly to 12/12 under a Lumigrow Pro 650 in a 4' L x 3' W x 6' H flower partition. HP Aero SOG setup 15-24 sites per chamber...I am going to be running Tahoe OG, Bubba and Girl Scout Cookies to see what the best strain is going to be for the SOG, also any recommendations here if you have SOG experience.
I have pics of my cabinet, and plan on doing a thread/journal, just trying to square away the details. Any input/suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Okay off to the morning toke!
Great thread, I went through the whole thing last night! Also I have scoured the LED without LEDs, https://www.rollitup.org/indoor-growing/358190-led-without-leds-my-first-483.html#post8121951, thread too and have come to ask for some input.
I am building a grow cabinet. I have a mother area that measures 1' 1/2" L x 3' W x 4' H and want to use T5's. (total dimensions of cabinet are 6' 5" L x 3' W x 6' H)
I have found this fixture: 156W 36" 4 bulb fixture
http://www.aquabuys.com/p/WP01020.html
My questions are:
Would this be enough to veg 3 mothers in my allotted area, I am going to do a SOG and would like to take 20-30 6"-8" cuts off of them every 4 weeks?
I have (3) GH HydroFarms that were given to me, free new in boxes, I figured would be good to run the mothers in?
Also what combo of bulbs would be recommended for my demands in this fixture? It comes with two (2) SUPERBLUE 460® Lamps and two (2) SUN WAVE®Lamps. I was going to get (2) of the ULTRA GROWTH WAVE® and was wondering if it was necessary/what combo of bulbs should I run?
I guess maybe I could be the first to run the Ultra's and see what they do for veg. I just want to be sure I can produce the proper growth on the mom's for taking that many cuts...Soon as they root in the cloner, which I have yet to build an aero type, they will be going directly to 12/12 under a Lumigrow Pro 650 in a 4' L x 3' W x 6' H flower partition. HP Aero SOG setup 15-24 sites per chamber...I am going to be running Tahoe OG, Bubba and Girl Scout Cookies to see what the best strain is going to be for the SOG, also any recommendations here if you have SOG experience.
I have pics of my cabinet, and plan on doing a thread/journal, just trying to square away the details. Any input/suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Okay off to the morning toke!
Fonzarelli
Active Member
You can get by with that. Forget the Ultras because they don't exist. Get the Florasuns. Go 50/50 Florasuns and full spectrum day lights. Zoomed Florasuns and Ultrasuns. This combination is good for producing clones because you will get really fast growth and good internode distance. Avoid adding solid blue lamps unless stretching becomes a problem.Hello everyone,
Great thread, I went through the whole thing last night! Also I have scoured the LED without LEDs, https://www.rollitup.org/indoor-growing/358190-led-without-leds-my-first-483.html#post8121951, thread too and have come to ask for some input.
I am building a grow cabinet. I have a mother area that measures 1' 1/2" L x 3' W x 4' H and want to use T5's. (total dimensions of cabinet are 6' 5" L x 3' W x 6' H)
I have found this fixture: 156W 36" 4 bulb fixture
http://www.aquabuys.com/p/WP01020.html
My questions are:
Would this be enough to veg 3 mothers in my allotted area, I am going to do a SOG and would like to take 20-30 6"-8" cuts off of them every 4 weeks?
I have (3) GH HydroFarms that were given to me, free new in boxes, I figured would be good to run the mothers in?
Also what combo of bulbs would be recommended for my demands in this fixture? It comes with two (2) SUPERBLUE 460® Lamps and two (2) SUN WAVE®Lamps. I was going to get (2) of the ULTRA GROWTH WAVE® and was wondering if it was necessary/what combo of bulbs should I run?
I guess maybe I could be the first to run the Ultra's and see what they do for veg. I just want to be sure I can produce the proper growth on the mom's for taking that many cuts...Soon as they root in the cloner, which I have yet to build an aero type, they will be going directly to 12/12 under a Lumigrow Pro 650 in a 4' L x 3' W x 6' H flower partition. HP Aero SOG setup 15-24 sites per chamber...I am going to be running Tahoe OG, Bubba and Girl Scout Cookies to see what the best strain is going to be for the SOG, also any recommendations here if you have SOG experience.
I have pics of my cabinet, and plan on doing a thread/journal, just trying to square away the details. Any input/suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Okay off to the morning toke!
4-bulb is a little weak. Can you do a 6-bulb or 8-bulb?
Of course 3 plants will fit in there if you trim them right. There is no exact science behind it. Just don't let them get so big that it gets crowded. Take your cuttings from the top to keep them short and to provide light to the lower branches. Let me know if you need anything else.
Kite High
Well-Known Member
I must compliment you fonz on your willingness to help and for not blowing smoke up people's asses...nice change for around here...kudos
Fonzarelli
Active Member
thanks, yeah there's a lot of b.s. on the web. i'm just trying to help out where i can, but i don't take shit from anyone. not much you can do here though. the shit just seems to find a way to seep into even the best of threads. lol trolls will be trolls.
anyway, i've done my part. there isn't much more to talk about. it would be nice to see people use the info i've posted and then post their results. would be nice to see some photos from that also.
Hey Fonz! Thanks so much, I could actually squeeze up to 4 more bulbs, another one of the fixtures I linked to, in my area. I will be picking up some more soon and take some pics of what I have going. I will get another Florasun and swap out the blue for now. Problem is I wasn't done with my construction and of course stuffed some girls in there and they are doing less than optimal...here's a quick shot I took...
It's Tahoe OG and they have had a rough week or two, droopy been thrown around in different environments, ect. I also got the Lumigro Pro 650 all hung just need to get some mothers healthy to start the cycle!
I'll start a thread/journal soon, just getting everything in order.
Thanks again for your input/time...if I could send some gratitude nugz, well they'd already be there!
Attachments
Here's some pics...
The first shot of the Lumigro is in view mode, the ones that follow are full power Blue @ 10, full White @ 10 and full Red @ 10...
How do them Tahoe girls look!?!? Lol, this is why you don't get plants when your not ready, I just had em sitting in a tray for a bot 3 days in plugs then tossed into these bubble buckets I rigged up, eyeballed some GH nutes, tossed in a spritz of H202 and BAM!! Plants that look like SHIT...
Haha no big I can get more, fact is I think Tahoe is not going to be best for my SOG, prob gonna grab up some Purple Kush...
I'm going to change and clean buckets, actually PH and adjust the water and hope this gets em back to healthy, otherwise their OUT! Thoughts???
Oh and Fonz going to change out the Blue 460 for another Florasun, well actually I have to get two, have the ultra daylights for that 50/50 blend and looking into another 2-4 light T5...I could tilt the one like I have and add another like it to get 8 bulbs in there @ 312W?? Hmmm whats another $180...
Thanks all, be critical, judge, preach, and best of all....smoke some shit and relax!
....PERFECT!!!
The first shot of the Lumigro is in view mode, the ones that follow are full power Blue @ 10, full White @ 10 and full Red @ 10...
How do them Tahoe girls look!?!? Lol, this is why you don't get plants when your not ready, I just had em sitting in a tray for a bot 3 days in plugs then tossed into these bubble buckets I rigged up, eyeballed some GH nutes, tossed in a spritz of H202 and BAM!! Plants that look like SHIT...
Haha no big I can get more, fact is I think Tahoe is not going to be best for my SOG, prob gonna grab up some Purple Kush...I'm going to change and clean buckets, actually PH and adjust the water and hope this gets em back to healthy, otherwise their OUT! Thoughts???
Oh and Fonz going to change out the Blue 460 for another Florasun, well actually I have to get two, have the ultra daylights for that 50/50 blend and looking into another 2-4 light T5...I could tilt the one like I have and add another like it to get 8 bulbs in there @ 312W?? Hmmm whats another $180...
Thanks all, be critical, judge, preach, and best of all....smoke some shit and relax!
....PERFECT!!!Attachments
UPDATE:Here's some pics...
The first shot of the Lumigro is in view mode, the ones that follow are full power Blue @ 10, full White @ 10 and full Red @ 10...
How do them Tahoe girls look!?!? Lol, this is why you don't get plants when your not ready, I just had em sitting in a tray for a bot 3 days in plugs then tossed into these bubble buckets I rigged up, eyeballed some GH nutes, tossed in a spritz of H202 and BAM!! Plants that look like SHIT...
I'm going to change and clean buckets, actually PH and adjust the water and hope this gets em back to healthy, otherwise their OUT! Thoughts???
Oh and Fonz going to change out the Blue 460 for another Florasun, well actually I have to get two, have the ultra daylights for that 50/50 blend and looking into another 2-4 light T5...I could tilt the one like I have and add another like it to get 8 bulbs in there @ 312W?? Hmmm whats another $180...
Thanks all, be critical, judge, preach, and best of all....smoke some shit and relax!
Here's how shitty my girls look
please HELP!!!Link to photos: too many and to large for your server?
<a href="http://s1128.photobucket.com/albums/m491/savage_007/1st%20Grow/" target="_blank">Sick Plants
</a> Room: 18 cu ft (1.5' x 3' x 4')
Temp/Humidity: 65-74 F @ 45-55%
Light: (20hrs on 4 off)Wavepoint 156W T5 HO 4 bulb fixture with (2) SunWave 12k Super Daylight (1) Super Blue 460 (1) TruLumen Flora - Was 3" from plant top moved up to 12" a day ago.
Nutes: Using GH Flora @ 1ml of each per 1 gal of tap water (I have HARD water pH is 8.2 ppm is 170-180) end mixture is ~450ppm
pH Down: I have GH pH down powder (used once switched to home made sulfuric acid/distilled water)
Final mix of nutes: ~450ppm pH is dropped to 5.3 - 5.5 temps range 65-71 F
Buckets:
(1) GH HydroFarm with (3) Tahoe Kush clones, roots just started to pop out the bottom
(1) 3 gal food grade bucket with (1) Tahoe Kush clone
(2) 2 gal food grade bucket with (1) Tahoe Kush clone (1 per bucket)
Everything has been cleaned and rinsed multiple times with H2O2 water, clones have been in buckets for about 2 weeks. They had a rough first few days in before buckets.
Since transplanted to buckets, have seen some growth and roots have pooped through baskets on all, but plants look like shit, have rusty looking leaves and pH swings in GH bucket are very high, 5.1 - 6.9 in 12 hours. Other buckets rise as well ie 5.5 - 6.0 in same time period. PPM either doesnt change or rises slightly 10 - 100 points, water level drops as I would expect so top off with water pH'd/H202.
Thanks! Have many more pics
Regards,
savage007
@savage007: Those pH-changes sound a bit vast to me. Did you check your pH-meter? When did you calibrate it the last time? Maybe it's broken?
I made some good experience with using nitric acid for bringing down the pH-level during veg. In generative stages I'd go for phosphoric acid. Hope this helps a bit...
I made some good experience with using nitric acid for bringing down the pH-level during veg. In generative stages I'd go for phosphoric acid. Hope this helps a bit...
420hydro
Well-Known Member
As an addict DIYer, I was browsing ebay and found these guys:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/30W-30-Watt-Cree-XLamp-Red-Blue-High-Power-LED-Light-DC24-26V-For-Plant-Grow-/190767851149?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c6aa6668d
and then I found this (the 100-watter):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/110985519495?var=410150220719&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
and then this was found:
http://www.heatsinkusa.com/3-500-wide-extruded-aluminum-heatsink/
Now the idea is to have 2 of these units: 3 LED modules on a 18-inch x 3.5-inch heatsink each powered by a LED driver. Mount the units on the sides of my CMH hood and used for flowering.
Comments?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/30W-30-Watt-Cree-XLamp-Red-Blue-High-Power-LED-Light-DC24-26V-For-Plant-Grow-/190767851149?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c6aa6668d
and then I found this (the 100-watter):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/110985519495?var=410150220719&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
and then this was found:
http://www.heatsinkusa.com/3-500-wide-extruded-aluminum-heatsink/
Now the idea is to have 2 of these units: 3 LED modules on a 18-inch x 3.5-inch heatsink each powered by a LED driver. Mount the units on the sides of my CMH hood and used for flowering.
Comments?
BluntM8
Active Member
i too have stumbled across the same and have these questions...
the 30w cree's have 10x 3watt LEDs on a single module. are these 3watt leds each actually a single diode making the light actually comprised of 10x 3watt leds?
or are they in fact 3 1watt diodes on a single chip, making the light actually comprised of 30x 1watt diodes in clusters of 3s?
also im quite sure the 100watter is a single module containing 100x 1watt diodes in 10 rows of 10.
what i am getting at here is this..
does the 30watt cree have more intensity/penetration than http://www.ebay.com/itm/1pc-30Watt-30W-High-Power-Bright-LED-2700LM-Bulb-30W-Cool-White-Lamp-Light-EM-12-/130788062855?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e73937687
the 30w cree's have 10x 3watt LEDs on a single module. are these 3watt leds each actually a single diode making the light actually comprised of 10x 3watt leds?
or are they in fact 3 1watt diodes on a single chip, making the light actually comprised of 30x 1watt diodes in clusters of 3s?
also im quite sure the 100watter is a single module containing 100x 1watt diodes in 10 rows of 10.
what i am getting at here is this..
does the 30watt cree have more intensity/penetration than http://www.ebay.com/itm/1pc-30Watt-30W-High-Power-Bright-LED-2700LM-Bulb-30W-Cool-White-Lamp-Light-EM-12-/130788062855?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e73937687