Another Simple Compost Tea Recipe

st0wandgrow

Well-Known Member
That's not necessarily true Nullis. I used to believe what you are stating above until I stumbled upon whom I believe to be one of the most well versed individuals on the topic (who uses a $20,000 microscope to verify what we are talking about here). Certain food stocks are ok to use, but some actually repress microbial multiplication (not what we want in an ACT). Here's a quote from him on the topic:

"In case I have not been clear enough above, our goal in making ACT is to extract, multiply and grow mostly aerobic microorganisms in as large a diversity as possible and inclusive of three basic groups; bacteria/archaea, protozoa [flagellates & naked amoebae] and fungi. (Some [vermi]compost will contain rotifers which are extracted into ACT. These cycle nutrients in similar fashion to protozoa and are a bonus if present.) Sometimes there may be nematodes surviving the entire brew but this is inconsistent.

Making ACT is not about putting in ingredients which directly benefit the plants. The foodstocks used are strictly to feed or benefit the microorganisms which in turn benefit the plants.

When I jumped on the compost tea bandwagon years back I utilized the whole gambit of ingredients recommended by the current (at that time) supposed authorities. These ingredients or foodstocks included, humic acid, kelp meal, black strap molasses, baby oatmeal (oat flour), fish hydrolysate, alfalfa meal, etc. We used variations of these ingredients in our 1200 gallon ACT maker on our farm and microscopic observation showed success.

I also experimented with using some rock/clay powders as ingredients and observed differences in the microbial make up which had positive results applied to the soil and plants. The types used were mostly soft rock phosphate and pyrophyllite.

Along the line somewhere we left humic acid out of a brew and noticed an increase in microbial numbers so we stopped using it ourselves but, possibly irresponsibly, I continued to recommend it because others did so. It was not until I devised a method to test each foodstock independently that I began to change my tune and begin to go against the grain of the contemporary experts.

By testing some ingredients independently in a liquid I observed;

1/ that humic acid in varying dilutions does not feed any sort of microscopically visible microbe. I observed that it actually suppresses microbial division and growth. This was confirmed by joint testing with Keep It Simple Inc. (KIS) in the Seattle area. We tested two of the most effective and popular brands. I cannot say definitively that all brands of humic acid will have similar suppressive effects in a liquid (ACT) but it is enough for me to discontinue using it or recommending it as an ACT foodstock. Please note that this does not mean that it is not good to use on/in soil….just not ACT.

2/ that kelp meal initially delays all microbial development in a liquid but does feed fungi and bacteria/archaea following 24 hours. If too much is used the effects are suppressive. From this I garnered that it should be used very sparingly and one must be prepared to brew a little longer if using this foodstock. Again, this does not mean that kelp meal is not a good thing to use in/on soil. It definitely is!

3/ black strap molasses (BSM) feeds both bacteria/archaea and fungi equally well contrary to what the A(A)CT aficionados were saying. The story was that BSM feeds only bacteria. This led to all sorts of misconceptions, even including ones made by USDA and Canada Agriculture scientists who declared that using molasses in ACT could lead to e-coli contamination. It is utter nonsense. Besides the testing I have done and ratifying assays carried out by KIS, it is common knowledge amongst many mycologists like Paul Stamets that BSM grows out fungal hyphae just fine.

4/ fish hydrolysate feeds both fungi and bacteria/archaea again contrary to the story at the time that it is mainly a fungal food. (I’m glad to see that story has now changed)

5/ alfalfa meal is also a decent all round foodstock which sometimes introduces protozoa cysts to the ACT. KIS has done more testing on this than I have.


The result of all this is that my attitude towards recipes for ACT has really evolved over the years with a trend towards the more simple. I know that there are a lot of people who place importance on creating a bacterial or fungal dominant ACT. At one time I myself was so influenced, however, the more I’ve learned and unlearned about living soil and a functioning microbial population interacting with plants, the more I’ve been led to allow the soil and plants to decide which microbes are actively needed by the rhizosphere team. What this means is that 9 times out of 10 I’m trying to create a balanced ACT with a decent ratio of the three basic microbial groups. When this hits the soil, some will go dormant to wake up later and some will be immediately put into action at the direction of the needs of the soil and plants.

The exceptions to this may be if I am attempting to battle a particular pathogen and want to attack it with a heavy fungal or bacterial (or a combo) ACT. In these situations some tweaking of recipes and timing can be helpful. If attempting these variations, a microscope is really the only way to confirm the desired microbial population. I have outlined some recipes which may trend towards a certain microbial group (or combo) or may assist with certain pathogens."
 

Nullis

Moderator
What specifically is not necessarily true? I am not saying to use a crap-load of every single ingredient somebody recommends you, or that certain additives can only be utilized by either bacteria or fungi or whatever; some advanced bacteria and archae have the same enzymes fungi have.

For example, the statement: "black strap molasses (BSM) feeds both bacteria/archaea and fungi equally well contrary to what the A(A)CT aficionados were saying. The story was that BSM feeds only bacteria..." That's not what I was saying. Fungi certainly can use simple sugars as energy, and they do... unless the bacteria get to it first. Polysaccharides are polymers, or repeating units of smaller molecules, made up of monosaccharides held together by glycosidic bonds. Fungi (and some bacteria\archae) have enzymes (glycoside hydrolases) which allow them to break the bonds, thereby releasing units of the simpler monosaccharides, which can then be immediately utilized by the fungi, or even by bacteria if present. Cellulose, for example, is broken down into glucose units.

I would be more interested in what effect varying concentrations of the blackstrap would have on the outcome of the brew.
 

st0wandgrow

Well-Known Member
What specifically is not necessarily true? I am not saying to use a crap-load of every single ingredient somebody recommends you, or that certain additives can only be utilized by either bacteria or fungi or whatever; some advanced bacteria and archae have the same enzymes fungi have.

For example, the statement: "black strap molasses (BSM) feeds both bacteria/archaea and fungi equally well contrary to what the A(A)CT aficionados were saying. The story was that BSM feeds only bacteria..." That's not what I was saying. Fungi certainly can use simple sugars as energy, and they do... unless the bacteria get to it first. Polysaccharides are polymers, or repeating units of smaller molecules, made up of monosaccharides held together by glycosidic bonds. Fungi (and some bacteria\archae) have enzymes (glycoside hydrolases) which allow them to break the bonds, thereby releasing units of the simpler monosaccharides, which can then be immediately utilized by the fungi, or even by bacteria if present. Cellulose, for example, is broken down into glucose units.

I would be more interested in what effect varying concentrations of the blackstrap would have on the outcome of the brew.


This:

"In my opinion you don't really need to brew separate compost and nutrient teas. An actively aerated compost tea can be about as simple or as complex as you want it to be."






I don't think it's advisable for anyone without an expensive microscope to just start tossing ingredients in to their ACT's. The purpose of an ACT is to multiply the microbial population present in the compost. If certain food stocks hinder that process, then what would be the reason to add them? An effective ACT can be made from a good source of compost and a simple carb like molasses. No need to complicate it it with a list of ingredients that may or may not be effective to this end.

If you feel that your plant will benefit from kelp/corn meal/alfalfa/guano, etc then brew a nutrient tea.
 

Nullis

Moderator
This:

"In my opinion you don't really need to brew separate compost and nutrient teas. An actively aerated compost tea can be about as simple or as complex as you want it to be."

I don't think it's advisable for anyone without an expensive microscope to just start tossing ingredients in to their ACT's. The purpose of an ACT is to multiply the microbial population present in the compost. If certain food stocks hinder that process, then what would be the reason to add them? An effective ACT can be made from a good source of compost and a simple carb like molasses. No need to complicate it it with a list of ingredients that may or may not be effective to this end.

If you feel that your plant will benefit from kelp/corn meal/alfalfa/guano, etc then brew a nutrient tea.
Again, not exactly what I am saying. Even the most basic ACT is going to contain some nutrients; microbes themselves need more than just sugar to function and proliferate. Blackstrap molasses also helps provide for their mineral requirements, but I bet too much molasses would also hinder replication. I just feel why fix what isn't broken. Having to brew separate teas for "nutrients" would be a complication, for me.
Guano has it's own microbes to contribute to the brew, and a higher nutrient value. In general I probably use about 4 or 5 ingredients sometimes, with a tablespoon of guano included as well as the humus and blackstrap or Catalyst.
activating_fungi.png
The corn meal or oatmeal isn't really for the brew, it is to stimulate the fungi in the compost\humus prior to brewing. For example, by taking a sample (1 cup) of humus and mixing it with a tablespoon of powdered oatmeal, soybean meal, corn meal or even kelp meal, the fungi in the sample will really take off. I was just saying I would give it a bit longer than a few days. After a little while longer you should see a great deal of mycelium.
 

OneStonedPony

Well-Known Member
^^ I agree about adding oatmeal in a brew to up the fungi, no doubt in my mind it works. I've tried it several times, and was pleased with the results in each case. Kelp meal works great to, I just wouldn't use it during flowering, as it contains natural growth stimulators that work best during veg growth. Never tried corn meal.
 

st0wandgrow

Well-Known Member
^^ I agree about adding oatmeal in a brew to up the fungi, no doubt in my mind it works. I've tried it several times, and was pleased with the results in each case. Kelp meal works great to, I just wouldn't use it during flowering, as it contains natural growth stimulators that work best during veg growth. Never tried corn meal.

How do you know it works? I'm not saying that it doesn't, but without verifying your results via a microscope you can't say with any certainty that it's producing the desired results.

Nullis, I'm not trying to be a know-it-all here. I'm basing my info off of someone that has done way more work in this field than I have. I'm trusting his expertise. He has stated numerous times that a good source of compost and unsulphered molasses is what works best to multiply and extract microbes. Other food stocks can certainly be added, but just know that some of them, in incorrect proportions can actually hinder the microbial multiplication. I'm sure that you're well versed enough at this to get good results with whatever you're doing ..... I just feel that anyone new to this would be best served to keep it simple and treat ACT's and nutrient teas as separate things. It's what he recommends, and what I've been following. I see a lot of tea recipes posted on here with a dozen or so ingredients used, and I'm not so sure that is a good approach. It won't kill your plant or anything like that, it's just not optimal for what an ACT is intended for.


Here's his website. It's got some great info

http://microbeorganics.com/
 

Nullis

Moderator
You don't usually need a microscope to see mycelium if the mass of hyphae is large enough, as in the picture in my previous post. Trichoderma tends to stand out because it is often green or even yellowish; you might notice it growing on the soil surface, within cracks or even on perlite. It doesn't necessarily require a terribly expensive microscope to be able to see microbes in general, either. Any high powered compound microscope that can magnify between 100X-1000X should hypothetically do (although staining or other technique may be required for an ideal view). Larger protozoans (ciliates and amoeba) should be distinguishable at 100X, as should fungal hyphae.

This is frustrating because I am already quite familiar with much of what is on that website (though it lacks organization), and most of it agrees with me. I think mainly there is a problem of interpretation (and misinterpretation). In my first post I said that one could, at their discretion, make an ACT as simple or "fancy" as they want to make it. I mentioned that even the most basic compost tea provides nutrients and the rest was referring to establishing fungal dominance in the compost\humus and brew (if that is what one desired to do).
The main reasons for using compost tea are;
1/ to provide a quick nutrient kick to the rhizosphere. This works mainly because as the flagellates (protozoa) consume the *bacteria/archaea they utilize only 10 to 40% of the energy intake for their sustenance and the remaining 60 to 90% is expelled as ionic form nutrient which is directly bio-available to the roots of the plants. This is known as ‘the microbial nutrient loop (cycle)’.
2/ to begin or continue an inoculation of the soil with a microbial population. Many of these microorganisms will go dormant until called upon later to fulfill their purpose but many of them will grow and flourish, finding their station in the hierarchical positioning of microbes in a living soil. Some, like the fungi will grow out through the soil binding aggregates together, assisting with air and moisture retention, providing pathways for bacteria/archaea, providing a food source for various microorganisms and degrading organic matter to a point where it is available for other organisms.
I agree.

He says that, based upon his observations, the kelp meal he was using initially delayed microbial development, that it might be suppressive if too much is used (in other places the word sometimes is used), but ultimately DID seem to feed the fungi and in turn the bacteria in the tea. Interestingly enough he still lists it as in ingredient in his recipes at the very bottom of the webpage. And he includes a recipe for fungal dominance... it calls for half as much molasses and three times as much fish hydrolysate. Less simple sugars for the bacteria, more complex foods for the fungi.
He also shares this good bit of info:
If you want a fungal compost SFI has recommended mixing oat flour (or powdered oatmeal) about 1:20 with your compost and keeping damp and covered with a cloth for 8 to 10 days. This does work, although I am unsure whether there is a diversity of species of fungal hyphae grown. If you see white or blue fuzz growing on the surface turn it under. What we want is transparent and colored microscopic fungal hyphae. A side benefit to this procedure is that if left longer than 10 days I have seen multitudes of bacterial feeding nematodes growing. I’m not sure if this is peculiar to my compost. Try it. Compost tea is not a good medium for distributing nematodes. Better to distribute them by hand in the compost.

Another trick to encourage fungal growth is to use good quality fish hydrolysate diluted in water (e.g. around 2 ounces per gallon of water) and dampen compost and cover for around 5 days with a cloth.
Seems to me that's pretty much what I was saying. And once again I certainly didn't say to use every ingredient somebody recommends to you. I didn't recommend using a dozen ingredients or even a half dozen; I usually use 5 or less.

What was interesting was the bit about humic acid... but he also explicitly stated that he couldn't say for sure if all brands had such "suppressive effects". He later states merely that he had seen "no benefits" from adding it. It should probably be noted that "Humic acid" is something of an enigma as it doesn't refer to any one distinct compound. HAs rather are a varied collection of structurally similar but different compounds which are actually polymers or complexes of a variety of different molecules and functional groups, which can be extracted from a variety of sources including humus\compost, earthworm castings, peat, and various coal deposits. It's taken a long time to resolve the exact structure of a typical humic acid, and research into their exact roles in soil is on-going. Other than mineral chelation, it has been believed that HAs could serve as a carbon-source for microbes, or serve other pro-microbial roles... I can point to several studies where applied HAs apparently stimulated bacterial growth.
 

st0wandgrow

Well-Known Member
The info on his website is a bit jumbled, and contradictory at times. I think this is due to some initial info that he put up years ago that he has since done a bit of a 180 on. I think the site needs a thorough once over to edit some of the more dated info.

Either way, I'm basing what I'm saying on posts that he has made more recently, not necessarily the info on his website. I like the simplicity of his recommended ACT, and I don't mind one bit brewing a separate nutrient tea with my kelp meal, alfalfa, neem seed meal, etc. I have visually verified his ACT's under a microscope after a 36 hour brew using only compost and molasses. The results were obvious, and positive. No need to complicate it, imo.
 

MayoMaster

Active Member
The info on his website is a bit jumbled, and contradictory at times. I think this is due to some initial info that he put up years ago that he has since done a bit of a 180 on. I think the site needs a thorough once over to edit some of the more dated info.

Either way, I'm basing what I'm saying on posts that he has made more recently, not necessarily the info on his website. I like the simplicity of his recommended ACT, and I don't mind one bit brewing a separate nutrient tea with my kelp meal, alfalfa, neem seed meal, etc. I have visually verified his ACT's under a microscope after a 36 hour brew using only compost and molasses. The results were obvious, and positive. No need to complicate it, imo.
Hey stow, thank you for your replies and education pointers you have given me. I have learned a little more and have started a new thread. Here is the link, tell me what you think!
https://www.rollitup.org/organics/735168-switching-organics-how-will-i.html#post9688559
 

MayoMaster

Active Member
FYI, it's quite difficult to burn your plants with organic ingredients.

I use 1 cup of alfalfa meal, and a half cup of kelp meal to 4 gallons of water to make my nutrient tea. 2 cups of vermicompost and 4 tablespoons of black strap molasses for my ACT. Brew the nutrient tea for 24 hours, and the ACT for 24-36 hours.
Oh hey! I completely forgot to ask what your dilution ratio is of your teas! What do you dilute a 1 cup alfalfa / 1/2 cup kelp meal to? Also what do you dilute your ACT to? I am pretty much gonna follow your advice completely on the teas, just unsure about dilution rates.
 

st0wandgrow

Well-Known Member
Oh hey! I completely forgot to ask what your dilution ratio is of your teas! What do you dilute a 1 cup alfalfa / 1/2 cup kelp meal to? Also what do you dilute your ACT to? I am pretty much gonna follow your advice completely on the teas, just unsure about dilution rates.
I brew my teas in a 5 gallon bucket, with 3 gallons of water. You want to leave some room in the bucket because it will create a foam when brewing which will spill all over the place if you have too much water in your bucket. When using 1 cup of alfalfa meal and a 1/4 cup of kelp meal, that's for 5 gallons of tea. So I add 2 more gallons of water to my 3 gallons of tea once it's done brewing and apply as a soil drench. You can dilute that further if you have more plants to water than the 5 gallons will cover, but it's not necessary.
 

MayoMaster

Active Member
Ahh okay so it is not a big deal to dilute the nutrient teas? Good to know! I totally forgot about monitoring PPM for these teas, I guess that is the best way to measure how much to give them.
 

DANKSWAG

Well-Known Member
The info on his website is a bit jumbled, and contradictory at times. I think this is due to some initial info that he put up years ago that he has since done a bit of a 180 on. I think the site needs a thorough once over to edit some of the more dated info.

Either way, I'm basing what I'm saying on posts that he has made more recently, not necessarily the info on his website. I like the simplicity of his recommended ACT, and I don't mind one bit brewing a separate nutrient tea with my kelp meal, alfalfa, neem seed meal, etc. I have visually verified his ACT's under a microscope after a 36 hour brew using only compost and molasses. The results were obvious, and positive. No need to complicate it, imo.
Stowandgrow,

One thing I did read which concerns me is the ability of my brewer to provide the right amount of air.
From what I read my aquarium air pump, hose and 5 gallon bucket is not adequate for the job of making or providing an environment that will multiply the microbes to what is possible with proper equipment?

It seems to me ACT would be out of the question with the equipment I have though I could still brew nutrient teas?

So based on your statement you follow his advise as a guru on brewing effective ACTs, what do you use as a ACT brewer?

DankSwag,
Grow On My Friends Grow On
 

st0wandgrow

Well-Known Member
Stowandgrow,

One thing I did read which concerns me is the ability of my brewer to provide the right amount of air.
From what I read my aquarium air pump, hose and 5 gallon bucket is not adequate for the job of making or providing an environment that will multiply the microbes to what is possible with proper equipment?

It seems to me ACT would be out of the question with the equipment I have though I could still brew nutrient teas?

So based on your statement you follow his advise as a guru on brewing effective ACTs, what do you use as a ACT brewer?

DankSwag,
Grow On My Friends Grow On
I spent the money and purchased a pump that's rated at 45L/min and a couple good oxygen diffusers. Based on his math my pump is sufficient to brew a 5 gallon ACT.

Again, I'm only basing this on his info. I have no way of verifying this beyond that.
 

DANKSWAG

Well-Known Member
I hear this is DA BOMB... Karanja Meal

A complete tea when it comes to source of rich nutrients both macro and micro, soil conditioner and pest control...

Made from the composted Karanja Tree flowers...

Has anyone used this? Comments?

DankSwag
Grow Organically My Friends Grow On!


[FONT=Patrick Hand, cursive]Has



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st0wandgrow

Well-Known Member
I hear this is DA BOMB... Karanja Meal

A complete tea when it comes to source of rich nutrients both macro and micro, soil conditioner and pest control...

Made from the composted Karanja Tree flowers...

Has anyone used this? Comments?

DankSwag
Grow Organically My Friends Grow On!


Has




Yes, good stuff. A lot of people claim that Down to Earth is not the best quality though. If you want to order neem or karanja products try here: http://www.neemresource.com/NeemResource_Home.html
 
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