PetFlora
Well-Known Member
SDS said in #535: More N (dry mass / plant cell proteins ) assimilated by the plant(s) ,more energy (number of photons to drive PS ,thus red.. ) needed...
And vice versa...
Also ,of course ,More PS ,means more CarbonHydrates...
Meanin' more energy (simple sugars ) and also more plant mass ( polymerised sugar molecules to form long or /and complex chains aka cellulose / hemicellulose /lignin /pectin /ect,as main plant "building " material ...Mainly at stalks and branches... )
But flowers need also a good deal of N and K assimilation ,along with long/complex sugar chains...
Still ,one has to be really careful ,not to utilise too much red..
( Or the ..guh..uhm...Kinda " wrong " wls of red ...) ...
Stomata close ,CO2 is starting to be limited...
Let alone the Phytochrome ratio anomalies & alterations ....
Everythin' should be in " balance "...
No room for "extremes" or "compromises " here...
Otherwise one needs more than 400 Watt of leds to get a decent harvest...
No way, back to those powers....
250 Watt at max,instead...
Goal is to have a better yield (both regardin' quality & quantity ) -than from 400 Watt HPS-,
with 250 Watt (or less).With the "right" config & combo of leds...
Astir team won't stop until this is accomplished,with the easiest,most flexible and cheapest way,possible...
Meanin',as overall ( average indoor gardener's-wise ) efficiently,as possible ..
I totally agree. One of the reasons why I switched to hydro (3 different methods) is optimal control over pH, ppm/ec + temperature- warmer in veg, cooler in flower- just like nature.
Balanced lighting (that which the strain prefers) + ok nutes = ok results. Great nutes and unbalanced lighting (too much blue or red)= ok yields.
In mid grow last time, I switched from the whole Dutch Masters Gold line (4+ products) to Hydroponic Research VEG+BLOOM, a one step formula, with lots of N. I had a bad aphid + SM infestation that destroyed 90% of the primary and secondary leaves, but still managed a decent yield and quality product. This grow I have been using V+B since day one. It kicks ass
And vice versa...
Also ,of course ,More PS ,means more CarbonHydrates...
Meanin' more energy (simple sugars ) and also more plant mass ( polymerised sugar molecules to form long or /and complex chains aka cellulose / hemicellulose /lignin /pectin /ect,as main plant "building " material ...Mainly at stalks and branches... )
But flowers need also a good deal of N and K assimilation ,along with long/complex sugar chains...
Still ,one has to be really careful ,not to utilise too much red..
( Or the ..guh..uhm...Kinda " wrong " wls of red ...) ...
Stomata close ,CO2 is starting to be limited...
Let alone the Phytochrome ratio anomalies & alterations ....
Everythin' should be in " balance "...
No room for "extremes" or "compromises " here...
Otherwise one needs more than 400 Watt of leds to get a decent harvest...
No way, back to those powers....
250 Watt at max,instead...
Goal is to have a better yield (both regardin' quality & quantity ) -than from 400 Watt HPS-,
with 250 Watt (or less).With the "right" config & combo of leds...
Astir team won't stop until this is accomplished,with the easiest,most flexible and cheapest way,possible...
Meanin',as overall ( average indoor gardener's-wise ) efficiently,as possible ..
I totally agree. One of the reasons why I switched to hydro (3 different methods) is optimal control over pH, ppm/ec + temperature- warmer in veg, cooler in flower- just like nature.
Balanced lighting (that which the strain prefers) + ok nutes = ok results. Great nutes and unbalanced lighting (too much blue or red)= ok yields.
In mid grow last time, I switched from the whole Dutch Masters Gold line (4+ products) to Hydroponic Research VEG+BLOOM, a one step formula, with lots of N. I had a bad aphid + SM infestation that destroyed 90% of the primary and secondary leaves, but still managed a decent yield and quality product. This grow I have been using V+B since day one. It kicks ass