Just because it's on the internet does not mean it is true. These are stress induced methodologies and should only be used if you know precisely what you are doing. It's nto the same as adding blue and red to white. UV and IR are not photosynthetic wavelengths, they signal defensive phytochrome responses and secondary metabolites.
It would be madness to make any decision based on that image. You really need to take a breath and learn a little more before jumping to adverse conclusions. This stuff is more complicated than you already imagine.
CRI is an rating for how natural the light is or how it matches sunlight. Most LEDs are deficient in red when compared to sunlight. The higher CRI of 90 will provide more red. The Vero 1750K 97 CRI is a very nice spectrum. It has less intensity becasue it takes more energy and florescent quantum efficiency is lower when producing deep red from a phosphor pumped LED.
M'y friend use 3000k because he's doing both veg an flo under them and he have Véro29, me i use 3500k for the same.setup because im using cxb 3590
My testing indicated no notable morphological differences 3000/90 -vs- 2700K/90 and had 3000K yielding slightly better. Results are still inconclusive. 3000K has more blue (12% -vs- 8%) and is slightly more efficient. It's possible 2700K is a better spectrum per radiant watt but in practice there's no evidence to suggest it's better than 3000K. Same goes for 1750, possibly being a better spectrum for flowering but also loosing out on efficiency. Where the sweet spot is nobody can really say with certainty at this point. 3500 and 4000K are also contenders. Good news is, it's difficult to make a bad choice as the yield difference is likely small.
You can rack your brain about it all day, but in the end, but as Rahz said, there isn't much of a notable difference in 2700k and 3000k. I personally mixed my bloom light between 2700 and 3000, but I'd choose 3000k if I wanted only one temp.
Pretty sure if you talk to someone over at Timber they can make that happen but be prepared to be more than satisfied!
False. Kind and blackdog are BADASS leds... you dont see tons of grows using them, because they are insanely expensive - NOT because they dont work. Once you learn about diy lights or qb's, its hard to justify spending 2grand for a light. I would WAAAY rather spend half the money, on a ~750 watt diy light, using qb's with few cobs mixed in
Have you taken a look at rapid led? Their 3 COB, 240 watt vero 29 D series, diy kit is only $220, AND you get a 10% discount on 1st time purchases... thats about as cheap as Ive seen for a quality diy COB setup. They also have the cree 3590's for $300 if youre after efficiency. Timber is noticeably more expensive...
Dude, are you a salsman? Im seriously asking. Because youre recommending the priciest, "pay for bells and whistles you dont need" lights. ChilLED is WAAAY overpriced... "oh, but they operate submersed in water!" SO WHAT?! You growing seaweed or cannabis? My advice - spend $185 on a diy Hlg qb288 that can pump out ~159watts, and steer clear of the 90watt ChilLED that theyre selling for a $300.
If youre after a vero 29 set up, Im telling you... rapid led will blow the doors off of timbers pricing. Plus, they will work with you, & advise you of your diy options, if youre looking for a custom build. VERY inexpensive to part your light together this way. Dont pay $750+ for a light until you have checked out HLG - if you want COB leds instead if quantum boards, go to rapidled.com - they have 12 COB cree kits that'll cover a 4x4 for $900 if you want max efficiency... or get the 12COB veron29 lamp for ~$700. That will MURDER anything you can get from Timber & ChilLED at that price point. Just email them & ask them to help you build... whatever u want. Theyll send u invoices & are endlessly patient with quetions. Theyre my #1 choice for COBs, & 2nd choice overall behind HLG.
That is why they are included VERY sparingly in led diode lamps... be careful if youre diy'ing your own "diode style" led lamp... u need little to no uv/ir
RapidLed sell kits, not assembled fixtures. For $750 you get cobs, heatsinks, 600w of drivers and assorted hardware but this does not include the frame.
this
good choice