Red boost primarily helps when light intensity levels aren't adequately high. Above 500 PPFD, red boost is only marginally helpful, if that. It seems to be a fad that lamps "need" to have red boost but science says otherwise.No 660nm added red or UV ???
So essentially, no matter where you get your UV/A or B from, either LED or a T5, you need to have them on their own timer. Better to NOT have them incorporated into the fixture? Am I getting this right?Red boost primarily helps when light intensity levels aren't adequately high. Above 500 PPFD, red boost is only marginally helpful, if that. It seems to be a fad that lamps "need" to have red boost but science says otherwise.
UV should not be used from seed to harvest. It's almost important to differentiate between UV-A and UV-B. These wavelengths do different things to the plant and should only be applied when appropriate. Therefore a standalone UV-A/B lamp with its own light schedule is far better than integrated UV diodes that are on the same hours the main lamp is on.
I don't have a source but some say that UV diodes also have a significantly shorter lifespan than other diodes, eg white. White Samsung diodes will last 50.000+ hours assuming that they are running relatively cool. I've heard UV diodes (brand dependant, of course) last 1/5th of that time. Again, I don't have a reliable source for this so take this with a pinch of salt.
Hope this helps.
Correct.So essentially, no matter where you get your UV/A or B from, either LED or a T5, you need to have them on their own timer. Better to NOT have them incorporated into the fixture? Am I getting this right?
Very nice to know. Thank you very much for this. This is not the first time I'm hearing about the timing situation with UV and your regular flower fixtures. I was told by someone else using the Agromax T5 fixture that you should only use UV sparingly and be very careful with it. I assume it would be the same for a UV LED.Correct.
I'll add a caveat. If you buy a lamp with integrated UV diodes, regardless of brand, I'd ask for a written (email) confirmation from said brand that the UV diodes will last equally long as the other diodes on the lamp. I don't want to generalize and say all brands of UV diodes only have a short life span but from what I gather, some/most of the UV diodes used in today's grow lights won't work as long as white diodes.
I'd also only buy a lamp with UV diodes IF these have their own timer and can be switched on/off independently from the other (white) diodes.
But again, if one is to experiment with UV-A and UV-B, I'd recommend doing so with a standalone UV lamp. Also keep in mind that UV is more harmful to human eyes than blue (and white) light so turn off the UV when working near your plants.
You're welcome. Information should be shared so we call grow as... growers.Very nice to know. Thank you very much for this. This is not the first time I'm hearing about the timing situation with UV and your regular flower fixtures. I was told by someone else using the Agromax T5 fixture that you should only use UV sparingly and be very careful with it. I assume it would be the same for a UV LED.
What kind of timing would you recommend for the HLG 30 watt UV bar as an example? It has its own power cord so you can hook it up to it's own timer.
That light is going to cost a fortuneCorrect.
I'll add a caveat. If you buy a lamp with integrated UV diodes, regardless of brand, I'd ask for a written (email) confirmation from said brand that the UV diodes will last equally long as the other diodes on the lamp. I don't want to generalize and say all brands of UV diodes only have a short life span but from what I gather, some/most of the UV diodes used in today's grow lights won't work as long as white diodes.
I'd also only buy a lamp with UV diodes IF these have their own timer and can be switched on/off independently from the other (white) diodes.
But again, if one is to experiment with UV-A and UV-B, I'd recommend doing so with a standalone UV lamp. Also keep in mind that UV is more harmful to human eyes than blue (and white) light so turn off the UV when working near your plants.
This is quite interesting re spectrum, can you maybe quote the source with links?Red boost primarily helps when light intensity levels aren't adequately high. Above 500 PPFD, red boost is only marginally helpful, if that. It seems to be a fad that lamps "need" to have red boost but science says otherwise.
Red boost primarily helps when light intensity levels aren't adequately high. Above 500 PPFD, red boost is only marginally helpful, if that. It seems to be a fad that lamps "need" to have red boost but science says otherwise.
I would be interested in sources too. Added red has me fascinated. I am always searching for info, be it anecdotal or research based.This is quite interesting re spectrum, can you maybe quote the source with links?
This is quite interesting re spectrum, can you maybe quote the source with links?
Sorry for the late reply. Time doesn't permit me to visit ROI as often as I'd like.I would be interested in sources too. Added red has me fascinated. I am always searching for info, be it anecdotal or research based.
Always understood the selling point for added red was to boost plant processes, besides boosting efficacy/efficiency numbers.
Awesome looking rig man.Here is a 3 x 3 LED I built using Bridgelux Vero19 1750k COBS and Bridgelux EBGen2 3500k / 4000k Boards (8 x 1' Strips)
Are you running them full out? I have one in a 3x3 and have some heat issues with it and have to keep it dimmed around 60%I run 2 x Spider Farmer SF2000 in a 3x3 Gorilla Shorty with extension ( So 175cm height ).
I absolutely kill it with yields.
Short node spacing and very healthy plants.
Virtually no heat issues. Even grow room stays cool from the air that is vented.