I cant say I agree except in the case of soil or those that have some advanced understanding on how to mix fertilizersYou guys are putting way to much stock in meter reading both ppm and ec. All that really is telling you is how much mineral ions that are dissolved in the water, as a total , it doesn't tell you if its the right mineral ions for the plants needs, just the total, so if your a beginner using bottle nutes and you need a ballpark reference on how much to feed then use EC or PPM other then that any experienced grower should not need to rely on any meter readings to grow.
Another thing EC readings are going to be different for everyone no matter what, even if 2 different people are growing the same strain.That water to mineral ratio is going to be different just because of all the different factors in involved in that ratio (water to minerals ) size of plants, size or roots and condition, temperature, lighting, humidity etc etc . those are a few that will factor into the water to mineral ratio that your plant needs or can handle (EC). this all factors into the a bigger picture of the plants nutrient uptake viability and what that actually is. So as far as i'm concerned its a tool for the beginner grower, because any Experienced grower should all ready have an understand on how much to feed, but more so then that you should be able to read the plant as it will tell you precisely if your to weak or to strong and it will also tell you what elements are to strong to to weak., far better then any meter out there.
that's all a bit complicated for something that's simple and short and although I see bits I agree with I also don't understand the point to some of it
to simplify
EC goes up and or PH goes down, lower EC
EC goes down and PH goes up, consider raising EC
I prefer to see a slight increase in PH and the EC stay flat or slightly drop
with a little time and a log and will start to see your system and the way I trends, how your specific set up trends will partly be determined by plant count vs reservoir size
in my mind/goal/opinion/perfect world
hypothetically
the ideal reservoir size and the proper nutrient levels your ph would start at 5.4 on sunday and slowly drift upward to 6.4 thru the week as the EC level stayed the same or drop slightly
no top offs, no ph adjustemnts ... then youd dump and begin again!
but the world is far from perfect and these goals not always practical for every set up... if you have a small reservoir with large plant counts the ph is going to drift more rapidly...so youll want to log your EC/ph so you can see the trends and adjust
typically as a rule; (again environmental factors and reservoir size set aside)
if your ph swings upward faster than normal..thats a sign to increase the feed
if you ph doesn't rise your likely over feeding
... if the drift is slow and steady upward your in the sweet spot
again youll need to account for your reservoir size and get familiar with how things trend to identify if the quick swing is from an undersized reservoir or not
like wise an over sized reservoir will also show changes slower
so you gotta get familiar with your system...some of these will be dependent on your set up
EC again, I like ot see a slow downward drift in EC
if your over feeding the EC will accumulate in the medium, if the reservoir EC is climbing theres a good chance you need to flush
if your pushing nutes at high levels and you want to do that that's your choice!! but if you don't flush weekly your going to eventually end up with some messed up plants
im in drain to wate so I don't have a reservoir to track the changes...my feed is always the same and always new
so I take samples from the solution directly from the rockwool cube and test it
if the sample/waste EC is higher than the feed... I either, need to water longer durations or lower my EC
if the ph of the feed solution is 5.5 and the waste samples are 6.5 or higher I might consider adjusting water frequency or increase EC
just to add another example
I run drip lines to feed, if I get both an extreme rise in ph and and rise in EC I might need to adjust the watering schedule.. instead of watering 1minutes every 3 hours maybe I need to water 3 miuntes every 3 hours.... not getting enough volume thru the medium could cause this on top of also over feeding would only amplify
your doing it backwardThanks for the detailed reply! That helps a lot.
So far, my PH is constantly rising, but its slow. Typically about .3 to .5 over about a week. The EC had been going up much faster - maybe 500uS to 600 uS over the same time. Im now down to around 1600uS (from 2.1-2.3mS) and the rate of increase is much slower, but still rising. Im going to continue lowering the EC as I top off the rez.
I did a rez change 5 days ago. My tap water started out at 208uS. I added Mega Crop until the EC was reading 1379uS, so about 1170uS of Mega Crop. Then I added some Cal Mag which brought the combined EC up to 1578uS.your doing it backward
and your still way to high
give them a flush (not sure what your medium is)
drop down to EC 1.3.... then work your way up until the EC barely falls and the ph rises slow
going backward/down complicates or skews things because youll also be seeing the results of over fertilizing and itll be hard to hear what the plants are saying to you
underfeeding is e3asy and fast to fix... over feeding can take time to correct
sounds like your getting it dialed inI did a rez change 5 days ago. My tap water started out at 208uS. I added Mega Crop until the EC was reading 1379uS, so about 1170uS of Mega Crop. Then I added some Cal Mag which brought the combined EC up to 1578uS.
The EC continued to go up along with the PH, but slower. So I drained out some water and topped it off with PH'ed tap water. The rez has been holding right at 1350uS for the last three days and the PH is barely climbing over the same time period.
So, in my system with this strain, your recommendation of 1.3mS (about 900uS of that is Mega Crop, 208 water, 200 CalMag) looks pretty darn good
Thanks!!
Oh - the color on new growth looks really good to me. Not nearly as dark as it had been.
I cant really say much more to youSo can somebody explain why I am feeding all this nitrogen to my plants when everything I ever learned is to cut out nitrogen about week two of flower. You cant cut out all the nitrogen my Part A and B had some in it and if you add cal/mag that has nitrogen in there too but I have never added nitrogen if I didn't have to, especially in flower.
I learned that excessive nitrogen in mother plants can delay/hinder rooting if taking clones from a mother plant and delay flowering if you have excessive nitrogen going into the flowering cycle.
I should of followed my instincts instead of the chem-gro feed chart. Cant blame any advice here as I was following the feed chart to begin with thinking that powdered nutes was some sort of different animal than my H&G nutes. It may be but the nitrogen is jacking up my shit. There is no other reason for it other than the chem-gro sucks my problem is nutes I have had no other issues about anything with this grow. Heck I even bought new bulbs so that wouldn't be a reason if something didn't go right. Its nute related.
My buds look like they are week 3-4 and I am in week 6 with only two more weeks to go. I have grown this strain out dozens of times they should be jammin but their weak. I'm going to do a water change this weekend and just run the chem-gro by itself. Going to put the chem-gro about 750 ppm of that and add about 50 ppm of cal/mag to put it about 800 ppm thats a 1.6 ec to see if they bounce back. Can't push them too much since their jacked up.
ah ok, I apologize, I misunderstood, I thought you where already adding calmag also for some strange reasonI havent used calmag with chem-gro yet. Maybe one of the many notable members with absolute success can explain to me why my flowers are about the size of a nickel in week six after four weeks of following the recommended nutrient ratio application.
What I can come up with is excessive nitrogen in the flower cycle. So why wouldnt I try cal/mag a 2-0-0 and drop the 15.5-0-0 cal/nit