Best way(s) to create bud size/weight in final 2 weeks???

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chuck estevez said:
FLUSHING, If it was what everyone says it is, EVERYBODY would do it. we all know 12/12 forces plants to bud. you can fidget that a little with slightly different results, but, it is fact that 12/12 works best. If flushing was FACT. We would all do it. BUT, Because it is bullshit feelgood broscience and makes 0 sense in the world of actual botany, you get people who believe in it, just like they believe in some mythical person in the sky who watches over them.
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Does flushing have any effect on chlorophyll? Along those lines, does chlorophyll do anything to the quality of smoke? Are the proponents of not flushing really saying that you should give nutrients right up until harvest? "if it was what everyone says it is, everybody would do it." Not true, people cannot resist the urge to reinvent the wheel.

Here's some help: IF flushing were fact, THEN we would all do it BUT "insert your jargon that suggests that while you use the word botany, you are no botanist" Your statement of logic falls apart miserably after that....seriously, I'm betting that you are not a botanist unless they have incredibly lax standards in that field....
 
howsitgrowin420 said:
Does flushing have any effect on chlorophyll? Along those lines, does chlorophyll do anything to the quality of smoke? Are the proponents of not flushing really saying that you should give nutrients right up until harvest? "if it was what everyone says it is, everybody would do it." Not true, people cannot resist the urge to reinvent the wheel.

Here's some help: IF flushing were fact, THEN we would all do it BUT "insert your jargon that suggests that while you use the word botany, you are no botanist" Your statement of logic falls apart miserably after that....seriously, I'm betting that you are not a botanist unless they have incredibly lax standards in that field....
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I'm betting you are jerk by any standard.
 
tekdc911 said:
you said your stuff never pops and burns clean ...... since you flush it ......... meaning that it pops and burns bad without it ?


and LOL
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Dude, we've all smoked a firecracker bowl. I said that mine doesn't do that. No, I am not going to feed right up until harvest just to see what happens to 4 ounces (insert quantity statements prior to asking about anything that matters) - if it doesn't burn clean, taste good, and test out, then I am looking at a $50 price drop per zip. You can gamble and test if you'd like, but I'll continue getting what I'm getting by doing what I'm doing.
 
howsitgrowin420 said:
Does flushing have any effect on chlorophyll? Along those lines, does chlorophyll do anything to the quality of smoke? Are the proponents of not flushing really saying that you should give nutrients right up until harvest? "if it was what everyone says it is, everybody would do it." Not true, people cannot resist the urge to reinvent the wheel.

Here's some help: IF flushing were fact, THEN we would all do it BUT "insert your jargon that suggests that while you use the word botany, you are no botanist" Your statement of logic falls apart miserably after that....seriously, I'm betting that you are not a botanist unless they have incredibly lax standards in that field....
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I study how plants work and uptake nutrients, I don't follow forum B>S
I understand that you need to break down sugars and starches,chlorophyll and this is not done by running mass amounts of water thru the root zone.
 
howsitgrowin420 said:
And rollitup didn't exist when I started growing, so your assumptions die there. As an expert then, you are saying to apply nutrients right up until you take the plant out from under the light?
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not how I do it, See, i found thru studying and testing that what makes a plant taste and burn funny is SUGAR. try and burn some of your dry nutes, then burn some sugar. then you might understand.
 
chuck estevez said:
not how I do it, See, i found thru studying and testing that what makes a plant taste and burn funny is SUGAR. try and burn some of your dry nutes, then burn some sugar. then you might understand.
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strange isnt the sugar broke down during a proper cure ...... bongsmilie
 
JUST A SNIP FROM THAT THREAD,
Plants use photosynthesis to make sugars out of water, CO2 and sunlight. But a plant cell (like any other cell) cannot use sugars for their cellular processes, it needs to break down the sugars and make ATP. Basically, the only difference between humans and plants in this chapter is that plants make their own sugars, while we get ours from food. But we still both need to use those sugars, and we do that through cellular respiration.

@douglebod
Fermentation is strictly defined as any way of anaerobically degrade pyruvic acid and recycle NAD+ to keep glycolysis going. You can then categorize this process as lactic acid fermentation (where pyruvate accepts electrons from NADH directly and becomes lactate), alcoholic fermentation (where pyruvate is first decarboxylated to acetaldehyde which then accepts electrons from NADH to become ethanol) and others (which are much more obscure). So technically, human cells are able to carry out lactic acid fermentation. Liver cells also have the enzyme alcohol dehydrogenase (responsible for ethanol formation in yeast and other fungi), but we use it in the reverse direction so to speak to get rid of any alcohol which we consume by converting it to pyruvate.
Plants however, can carry out alcoholic fermatation. They don't normally do it, because plants are usually in contact with oxygen. However, if you flood the root of a plant for about a week the cells are starved of oxygen, and because of this they will start carrying out alcoholic fermentation to survive.

-Andrei

very true
that is what my bio textbook says.
just to complete the last part
in alcoholic pathway ethanol forms a waste while the lactate formed in the lactate pathway can be broken down further. that is what leads to the oxygen debt
found here,
http://www.biology-online.org/biolog...bout16671.html

and,


Alcoholic Fermentation In Plants

By the following, which we find in the London Gardener's Chronicle, it will be seen that the discovery is somewhat akin to those of Prof. Burrill and others in this country:
"When plants are deprived of oxygen gas it appears that alcohol is formed in all their tissues without the aid of any ferment. If a vegetable cell containing sugar be cut off from its supply of oxygen - be suffocated, in fact - the sugar it contains becomes broken up or changed into carbonic acid, alcohol, and other products. Moreover, the various alcoholic ferments only produce their effects under the same conditions. Alcoholic fermentation, then, depends solely on the suffocation of a living cell containing sugar. Starting from these ascertained facts, M. Van Tieghem, in a recent number of the Annales Agronomiques, alludes to a peculiar disease in appletrees due to a suffocation of the roots, followed by the production of alcohol in their tissues. On microscopic examination the tissues were found healthy, except the medullary rays, the cells of which, instead of containing starch or sugar, contained brown oily globules, the residue left after the formation of the alcohol, which latter is diffused throughout the root, tinging the cells of a characteristic brown color, and giving rise to an easily detected alcoholic odor.
Judging from these appearances what was the nature of the disease, M. Van Tieghem made inquiries as to the character of the soil, and from this, as well as the fact that the season had been extremely wet, his diagnosis was confirmed, and he in consequence prescribed efficient drainage as the remedy for the disease, and with good effect.



found here,
http://chestofbooks.com/gardening-ho...In-Plants.html

one more
http://www.cliffsnotes.com/study_gui...eId-23703.html

I am giving you this info first as it relates to doing something prior to the actual harvest chop. The rest of what I found will bring everything that we find already posted in the harvest forum to a hopefully better understanding.

We as MJ growers have modified/refined the basic knowledge of curing and fermentation of other plants due to the fact that our buds are not leaves and are therefore more subceptable to mold but the basic premise is the same, we don't add to much heat because it is known to degrade THC. We don't maintain higher humidity levels to avoid mold. The piling of the plants to induce fermentation is the same concept that makes composting work and for us home growers this is why we use a paper bag or cardboard box because it creates a scaled down compost/fermentation chamber, with this in mind pay great attention to why it is necessary to check often and rotate/rearrange the buds during this part of the process. Also know that this process will also continue once you put your buds into jars.

I also want to point out that while it is easier to trim your buds before drying that leaving the leafs on and hanging the plant allows the leafs to dry formed around the bud to protect it from various things most importantly oxidation which we know degrades the THC. It also allows the buds to dry more slowly which is what we truely want to happen.
My friend Shrubs did this on his second harvest, now I know why.

Please remember that patience is a virtue the slower they dry the better they will be,,,,,,,,period. To many growers are in a hurry and as a result speed things up once you read all of the info I am about to present you will see what I am saying is true as I have (yes I have read all of it)
 
tekdc911 said:
been there trolled that :D
and the stinky plant one dude knows his shit but i cant get past the comment about " HIS " method that he created when other people have been there already
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I have tried this technique. and the author of that thread has changed it from starving the roots of oxygen by flooding, to pouring boiling water over the roots at the end, it does the same thing,only much faster.
 
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