Cannabis and Hops... Let's Make some Beer

Thanks for the enlightenment of brewer terminology. As for when your going to make your Cannabrew I was not asking out of impatience. Merely anticipation and curiosity. I understand your weariness to start tossing in bud for science sake as it is expensive and not government funded lmao. I shall wait until september! I hope it works for you I will never do this myself as I don't know shit when it comes to brewing let alone canna brewing. But it really is interesting to follow.

All the best,

youngbuzz101

youngbuzz101 said:

Thanks for the enlightenment of brewer terminology. As for when your going to make your Cannabrew I was not asking out of impatience. Merely anticipation and curiosity. I understand your weariness to start tossing in bud for science sake as it is expensive and not government funded lmao. I shall wait until september! I hope it works for you I will never do this myself as I don't know shit when it comes to brewing let alone canna brewing. But it really is interesting to follow.

All the best,

youngbuzz101

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Right on man. Enjoy the ride. I hope I can put together something that is out of this world.

I do a good amount of homebrewing. Kegging is the way to go if you invest in a keg fridge.

I have pondered a thc brew. Dry hopping (I do for last three to four days of fermentation) I believe would get the flavor in. So you would want to use a well cured bud. I would think most startins would best compliment a california type pale ale. I use about an ounce of hops to dry hop.

I don't think you will get much THC extraction though. Not a high enough alcohol content in the brew. You decarb the bud first, but I think this would impact the flavor. So to really do it, I would think the best bet would be to make an extraction with everclear and then add it to the end of the wort boiling. And then doa dry hop with a second batch of bud for flavor.

I swear I'm going to get into this I'm jealous and you guys are making me really thirsty...lol

Hey Everyone! Brew day was over the Weekend. Adding the whole hops really got the hop smell that we were missing from before. We will be doing a dry hop on this Saturday (1 week fermenting) when we transfer the Beer into the glass carboy. Everything I have read about dry hopping has basically said add about 1 oz per 5 gal. Well, we are going to add 4 oz of whole hops.

We have named this brew "Hop Crazy"

Here is the basic Recipe:
- 5.4 lbs Pale LME (Liquid Malt Extract)
- 1.6 Amber DME (Dry Malt Extract)
- 2.5 Mixed Grain (Crushed) | 1 lb Pale, .5 lb Crystal Carmel 30, .5 lb Vienna and .5 lb Carapils)

***Note on Hops: The time listed is where we are at in the boil that they were added***

- 1 oz Centennial @ 15 min (Bittering)
- 1 oz Cascade @ 30 min (Flavoring)
- 3 oz Fresh Frozen Whole Hops (Cascade and Some Others Unknown) @ 45 min (Aroma)
- Dry Hop after at Transfer to Glass Carboy (1 Week) - 4 oz Fresh Frozen Whole Hops (Cascade and Some Others Unknown)

- 2 Packets Dry Ale Yeast

- Prime w/ 3 oz Corn Sugar Prior to bottling

Directions:
Steep grain in 1.5 gal of water @ 153 degrees F for 35 mins. Remove grain, add 2 gal. of water (making the total 3 gal.) and bring water to boil. Once boiling add LME and DME slowly while stirring to avoid clumping and/ or anything sticking to the bottom of the pot. Boil for 15 mins. Add bittering hops/ Continue boil for another 15 mins. Add Flavoring Hops. Continue boil for 15 mins. Add aroma hops. Continue boil for 15 mins. Boil should now be at 60 mins. Cut the heat.

To cool down the wort I fill the bath with a little bit of water and put a 20 lb bag of ice in it. This gets the wort down to temp in about 20 mins. (Keep the wort in the pot, lol do not dump the wort into the bath tub.

Once it is cooled you can take a hydrometer reading, mine was at 1.052 for gravity and measured at 6% ABV. Once the fermentation is complete we will take another reading and subtract it from the original reading to find out where we are approx. in alcohol content.

Then we want to add O2 to the mix, so we pour the wort back and forth from our bottling bucket to our pot. We did this 5 times. Now the wort can stay inside the bottling bucket and we can pitch the yeast. I should of said this earlier but we need to pre boil 1 cup of water (this is to sterilize). Once this gets to room temperature we can add our yeast packets an mix. Toss the mixture into the wort give a small stir with a sanitized whisk. Put the lid on the fermentation bucket. Put an airlock in the lid to allow the CO2 to escape. Put the bucket somewhere cool and safe (must remain undisturbed) and wait. After a week we will tranfer into our glass carboy and add more hops. Wait for an additional week. Prime and bottle! That's It, lol.

Pictures are basically in order of the recipe:

More Pics from Brew Day:

- Also, Side Note. It is very important to keep everything clean, sanitized and sterile when necessary. Next post we will explain the difference between all three.

Steeping the Malted Grain


Second Addition of Hops


Last Addition of Hops (These are the fresh frozen)


Time to Pitch Some Yeast

Clean, Sanitize and Sterilize... Aren't they all same? Nope.
Here is a link to pretty good article, CLICK HERE:

Cleaning = Clean is free from dirt, marks, or stains. | or | morally uncontaminated; pure; innocent, haha

Sanitizing = Sanitizing is the reduction of the number of living organisms that are on your equipment

Sterilizing = Sterilizing make (something) free from bacteria or other living microorganisms.

soooo.. wanna mail me a bottle lmao.

So I was just thinking to myself... "Say this works and it is the most amazing beer ever and it gets drunk plus a nice stone..." How much would someone be willing to pay for it?

Lol, say I use 48 grams (which = about a gram per bottle | roughly 48 bottles per 5 gal). Street Value tells us that each beer should cost $20. Hahaha who the fuck would buy it? Even as a novelty how quickly would you drink a 12 oz bottle of beer. Well there goes 20 bucks and 40 and 60, lol.

Anyway its a good thing I grow or this would not be a realistic adventure.

@youngbuzz101

I'll email you one right away.

Lmao I couldn't see realistically it take 48 grams per brew, I mean to say you can you a half quarter and get some pretty decent brownies it would all depend on how you were to extract and and infuse your THC. With that being said the same logic could be totally irrational in the aspect of brewing but I would imagine if you needed 48 grams per brew you must be doing something wrong or less productive. When smoking you waste a lot of your THC while extracting is more efficient. My theory and prove me wrong but my theory is you extract 48 grams via ever clear and infuse it in the finalities of your brewing sequence you will have beer so god damn strong it will be like 1 beer damn 2 beer gone 3rd bee..water nope I think I want water. Lol. Checking my inbox now I'm excited lol

This is the contraption I am going to have my glass guy make. Basically the wort will travel through the buds (like making BHO) and then into the bottling bucket and straight into bottles.

The leftover mash will probably get infused into coconut oil and then turned into mild edibles. I can't imagine that all of the THC will be extracted into the brew. The only thing that turns me off about using an extract is I want the smells of the actual flower. I want to pop open a beer and be like "goddamn are there buds inside there?"

Imagine the glass is about the size of a wide mouth mason jar (which holds about 42 - 50 grams of cured buds). We do not want anything to splash, should be a smooth flow. I think if I put a nipple on the contraption then I can connect my auto siphon to it. I'd actually love here your opinion on this @GrowinDad .



Not sure if you have ever seen Beer Wars, but, there is a seen where they are interveiwing the guy from DogFishHead and he has a special hop infuser (looks like my contraption) that adds an extra dry hop effect.

My theory is that I will get all of the flavor and smell I am looking for. Using a 9% abv will extract enough of the cannbinoids so that when ingested you will soon know that they are in there. I don't won't these to make people freak out and run into on coming traffic or something, mild is better. The only thing that has me a bit up in the air is Decarb.

When you decarb at least when making coconut oil it really loses that "beautiful" smell I am looking. Now I have also read that there is no reason to decarb because the liver still processes THC-A and actually transforms it into THC.

Personally out of the numerous times I have made edibles the ones that were pre-Decarbed where far more potent than previous batches. Maybe it is the placebo affect. Not sure.

I'll try to find the article on Decarb.

My contraption would be similar to this:

Here is the article. I remember getting into a discussion with frenchy and Than I stumbled upon this study (Well actually a kind member sent me the link):

Study on Decarb. Click Here.

The study is a bit over my head. Basically it says that urine samples tested for THC not THC-A on both DeCarb vs Not.

The only thing I would like to add is that personally I feel the affects are felt different even if our bodies process similarly.

That's interesting, you should make your batch with your theory, then extract 3.5 g the classic way. Add that extract to about 5 of your beers and compare the two maybe you will find that if you double extract using the two methods you will get the effect your looking for.

-OR-

Say your using the 48 grams you originally want to incorporate into your brew. Take 45 g and put it into your contraption for the flavor and smell then, add the three grams extracted via everclear in a dropper evenly through out the bottles. Say like 10 drops each bottle for the boost in effect. Just a thought..

youngbuzz101 said:

That's interesting, you should make your batch with your theory, then extract 3.5 g the classic way. Add that extract to about 5 of your beers and compare the two maybe you will find that if you double extract using the two methods you will get the effect your looking for.

-OR-

Say your using the 48 grams you originally want to incorporate into your brew. Take 45 g and put it into your contraption for the flavor and smell then, add the three grams extracted via everclear in a dropper evenly through out the bottles. Say like 10 drops each bottle for the boost in effect. Just a thought..

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I think this will be a pretty good solution if we find the alcohol doesn't extract enough of the THC to be noticed. I don't want to be floored but I want to know that hey, I feel pretty high after that beer.

wanna learn how make some canna beer hit me up i have a recipe that is awsome 3 beers and u drunk and spinning out

rob333 said:

wanna learn how make some canna beer hit me up i have a recipe that is awsome 3 beers and u drunk and spinning out

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I sent you a PM

Dihydrogen Monoxide (H20)

Well finished up another chapter out of "How To Brew". Today was a quick read on water. It probably goes without saying that if your water tastes bad than your beer is going to taste bad. Simple...?

Yes that is the basics of water: It should have no smell and taste like water. If not you can do a mixture of RO water and Tap or Tap and Distilled water to help lower the levels of chlorine and other stuff. Personally we have been using RO water for the entire brew, so far so good. I won't get into to much detail but here are a couple of things summarized from the book:

- You can't make good beer with bad tasting water
- Bad-tasting water can be treated by a variety of methods i.e. Brita filter, Campden tablets, charcoal filter, etc.
- Do not add brewing salts to your recipe until you know how much you have to start with from your water report
- Decarbonation of your water for brewing pale, highly hopped beer may be necessary.

This brings up two questions: Why would you add salt to your recipe? and What is decarbonation, what the hell does it have to do with my hops?

So Why add salt? Burtonizing is the addition of gypsum or calcium sulfate. Brewers do this to replicate the water from different areas in the world. This was a new concept to me, I have no intentions of ever doing a brew where I would need this just thought it was interesting.

What is decarbonation? Taking the bubbles away? No. Decarbonation in brewing refers to bicarbonate ions (alkalinity) found in local water. Some areas of the US have high alkaline water. PPMs higher than 250 can alter the taste of a mash (when brewing all grain) and can result in a nasty bitterness due additional components of the hop being extracted (polyphenols/ tannin - Basically an extra bitter nasty thing). There is a process to removing this from your water but that is another thing I don't ever plan on doing just thought it was interesting and wanted to share.

So there you have it. If you want to be sure of what is in your water you should be able to get a copy of your water report just by googling your city name plus water report.



Here is a table about adding salts to your water:
Link for reference: http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter15-4.html

farmasensist said:

i just got back from the store with a 6.5 gallon kit and ingredients for an IPA. Will probably brew it later this week or over the weekend. The brew supply store is moving next week and will be less than 5 miles from the house so that will be cool. I also gotthe john palmer book and heard its the go to guide for brewing. I tried reading it a while ago but i dont think it will make much sense until i actuallyget my hands on a batch or two.

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Did you ever get your brew on?

youngbuzz101 said:

what is IPA? second question.. When are you planning on throwing in some buds?

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I just read a cool story I thought you might like - From "How to Brew" By John Palmer:
"Hops are a natural preservative, and part of the early use of hops beer was to help preserve it. This is how one particular style of beer, India pale ale, was developed. At the turn of the 18th century, British brewers began shipping strong ale with lots of hops added to the barrel to preserve it during the several month voyage to India. By journey's end, the beer had acquired a depth of hop aroma and flavor - perfect for quenching the thirst of British personnel in the tropics."

I brewed it last week. The gravity was a little lower than it was supposed to be and i had some trouble cooling it but i think it will be OK. I'm going to let it sit in the fermenter another week before i bottle just to make sure its ready. Can't really see any action in the air lock and dont want want to peel back the lid and mess with it any more than i need too. The lid felt kind of swollen and the air lock smeels like straight hops so I think i did it right.