Chicagos GeekSquad 1st Grow Med White Rhino
- Thread starter Love1Fear
- Start date
Young Macdonald
Well-Known Member
lookin good i think ill be doing the same thing minus the drip system. any updates?
Bushytrout
Active Member
GREAT JOB!!..I have yet to grow anything my first time on this site and I followed the whole story ..I THINK you did abosolutly fantastic!!!WOW what an inspiration!ya did good girl!,,I will be taking a course in growing..that is what us ''medical types''do 
and they I will modify what I learned..natch and grw away..again good gril and thanx so much for sharing. ONE!.''.them who feels it knows it''...BOB MARLEY
and they I will modify what I learned..natch and grw away..again good gril and thanx so much for sharing. ONE!.''.them who feels it knows it''...BOB MARLEY
chunkymunkey33
Well-Known Member
Looking nice. Read through just now. I found this because I was searching for fellow growers of Chicago. Anyways, great job so far.
Love1Fear
Well-Known Member
Not Bad for a first timer Hydro grower not to mention i never even grew in soil either! Its all thanks to this site being powered from people like YOU, so THANKS a whole heck of alot, i appreciate every last one of u guys/girls!!!! Wanna here something else thats real funny i dont even smoke weed or sell it!! Ya really. But you can bet ur ass im going to be in the mourge when i try these babies out!! PEACE LOVE AND TACO GREASE
LetsGetHigh90
Active Member
awesome grow, my first time is going to be similar to this. How did the white rhino smoke? im purchasing similar genetics from green house. again, congrats!!!
chunkymunkey33
Well-Known Member
Are you kidding? Did you just say that because I said I'm from Chicago and now you're paranoid?
Love1Fear
Well-Known Member
Nope just saying. No Worries, how r u going to grow ur seeds hydro im guessing lets see some pics when u get it up and running i would like to see. Thx
chunkymunkey33
Well-Known Member
I'm a soil man. I've have a perpetual garden going, that's been going, for about a year.
chunkymunkey33
Well-Known Member
I just harvested a Lowryder 2 about a week ago and it is curing right now. I have 4 other fem LR2's going right now 1 will be done in about 3 weeks, and the other 3 will be done in 5 weeks. I also have 3 fem White Dwarfs and 3 fem Afghan Kush Ryders that are 3 weeks old. As you can see I love the autoflowering strains.
chunkymunkey33
Well-Known Member
Autoflowering strains are strains crossed with ruderelis which causes them to only live for usually 9 weeks from seed to the end of it's life cycle and you don't need to switch the light schedule at all.
Love1Fear
Well-Known Member
Take 2 on white Rhino will be updated this afternoon with new GUTS (irrigation and new woodpecker drippers 2gallons per hour )
Here are some pics of the harvest (5-18-09) Phoebe is the plant in the back Khloris is the plant in the front that is taller then her grow room.
This is Khloris her irrigation tube got plugged with her roots and dried out for 2 days till i figured that out
I will send a link to my new journal here after i complete it. Thank you all for your input!!!
Here are some pics of the harvest (5-18-09) Phoebe is the plant in the back Khloris is the plant in the front that is taller then her grow room.
Roseman
Elite Rolling Society
Hey, Love1fear,
You sent me a note to visit your thread. You asked me how to increase yield, and how to top and prune and Fim.
Some comments:
You really did very good for your first grow.
I keep my 65 and 85 watt CFLS one and half to two inches away or near. I put my 105s 4 inches away.
Side Lights work wonders.
That DRESSER limits your Plant Height possibilities.
I VEG with Lights running 24 hours a day, non-stop.
I run my feeder tubes 24 hours a day too, and not on a timer.
With an unwelcomed Visitor in the house and with the little sister mentioned, you sure are taking some chances of getting busted. I suggest you limit the number of people who know you are growing.
Your temps were a little high, I am going to post some info on temperatures.
You asked about Topping, Pruning and Fimming, that is all done during the VEG cycle....never during BLOOM cycle.
I feed mine 1/4 nutes when I see 4 full leaves (not counting those first two round ones)
A week later, 1/2, and then full nutes the next week.
Temperatures
Before getting started it is highly recommended that every indoor garden has a max/min thermometer. ($4.95 at Wlamert) This product allows the gardener to see exactly the fluctuations in temperature within their garden. Without this useful tool there is no accurate way of knowing the different temperatures between daytime (lights on) and nighttime (lights off). The difference between the two temperatures is very important to plant growth. Anymore than a 10F-15F difference between daytime and nighttime temperatures and you risk shocking and stressing the plants. In general the optimal daytime temperature for plant growth is between 70F -75F. Drift to far above this range or too far below and growth can be severely affected. Daytime temperatures exceeding 90F or under 62F and plant growth will be stunted. If the temperature drifts higher than 95F the plants enzyme production will drop off and the plant will begin shutting down. At temperatures that high photosynthesis shuts down due to the stomata in the leaves closing down to conserve water. At normal temperatures the stomata will be open, taking in CO2 and sweating water to keep the plant cool and allowing for transpiration.
These temperature ranges will vary depending on variety and species of plant. For instance, some orchids require more than a 10F-15F difference between daytime and nighttime temperatures in order to flower.
Ideal temperature also varies depending on whether or not CO2 is being introduced to the environment. A more suitable daytime temperature when the air is being enriched with CO2 is 80F-85F. This temperature range promotes the exchange of gases between the plants and the environment. Also, it can speed up the process of photosynthesis. Plant in an environment at 86F an perform carbon extraction from CO2 twice as fast as at 68F. It is still recommended that the nighttime temperature drop no more than 15f from that of the daytime temperature. There is another relationship between temperature and the absorbsion of gases by plants that many hobbyist growers are aware of. That is the relationship between the temperature of the water in your reservoir and the amount of oxygen the water can hold. The best range that your reservoir can be between is 60F-75F. Ideally the reservoir temperature should be at 65F because this level contains the most oxygen. Also this temperature will help control transpiration (the act of drawing up nutrients by evaporating water through out the leaves), and humidity levels. Buying a simple floating thermometer will allow you to know where you fit in this range.
Another great reason for regulating the temperature in your grow room s that biological processes can be speed up exponentially by every degree. This is true for your plants as well as the potential pests that may invade your grow room. Pests such as spider mites can reproduce up to 10 times faster with every degree the temperature rises. These pests can destroy a garden in no time flat, you really do not want to make it any easier for them. With a daytime temperature at a steady 72F and nighttime temperature of 65F it is much easier to control and destroy spider mite, thrip, and many other pest populations.
The same principal can be applied to the prevention and control of fungi, molds, mildews, and bacteria, which can spread more rapidly when temperatures in the grow room or reservoir exceed 90F. Also, the warmer the air, the more water it can retain which means humidity levels can easily go beyond the recommended 40-50%. This high humidity coupled with lower nighttime temperatures can cause condensation to form on leaves. This will invite molds, mildews, fungi, and bacteria to take over you grow space. With high temperatures the likely-hood of losing control of the problem, such as powdery mildew, is very high. Once control is lost your plants may be the next to go.
Temperature is also very important when it comes to starting seeds and getting cuttings to root. Placing seedling trays on a heating mat will reduce germination time dramatically. Speeding up germination time usually leads to stronger and healthier plants. Also, less time spent between crop cycles makes a garden efficient. More harvests provided in less time can equal big bucks in the pockets of professional growers.
The ideal temperature to achieve these results is 80F. Any higher and you risk burning the roots. Also, many seeds simply will not germinate at temperatures over 90F. The seeds will become dormant and never sprout.
The same principal used for seeds is used on cuttings to coax roots out quicker. The sooner cuttings can establish roots the better. If roots can be forced quickly they will grow strong and stay strong. A bottom temperature of 80F-85F, roughly 10F warmer than the air, will speed up rooting time and help to jump start those roots once they do begin. Let the temperature get too high or too low and roots growth will be hindered or they will never grow at all. Using the proper technique and the proper temperature for bottom heat not only can rooting time be speed up from 2 weeks to as little as 3 days, but the survival rate of your cuttings will drastically improve.
On the topic of roots, there is an ideal temperature for the root zone after the plants roots have been established. Roots are working 24 hours a day and constant attention is required concerning temperature in and around the root zone. The ideal temp for this root zone is generally 75F. At this temperature the ion exchange between the roots and the environment around them is at its absolute best. This means that the plants root system can take up more macro nutrients, more micro nutrients, and more oxygen at this temperature than at any other level. This makes a plant more efficient and a plant working efficiently will provide a superior yield.
Topping, Pruning, Fimming
Essentially they are the same, "Pruning" and "Topping", just two different commonly words used. Fimming means a lot of indesriminate Topping. It is also known to some as "Pinching" as well. In this page it will be refered to it as "Topping"
Topping is done to increase yield and make them bushy, bushy, bushy, make more buds, promote "branching", and increase the overall yeilds of the plants. With higher overall yeilds, a grower will successfully harvest many more budds, or floral clusters, and from smaller, bushier and more compact plants.
To the indoor grower that does not use this technique, but allows their plants to grow tall, it can be a waste of their artificial lighting, and growing spaces potential. With its own natural growth pattern, and without the benifit of topping, your lady will have one main central "khola" budd, at peak flowering. Several other small branches will grow outwards, down its main stalk, with much smaller budd topps.
The natural growth pattern is to grow upwards at its main stalk. From this main central stalk will begin to grow side branches. The side branches come out as tiny shoots with leaves, and usually there are a pair of them on opposite sides of the main central stalk.
When the seed leaves have long dyed off on the main stalk. The first true seed leaves commonly can or will, wilt, dry up, or dye off of the plant as well. (the little round ones) Once healthy new vegative growth begins the rate of growth can be very fast, with excellent lighting supplied.
As the new growth increases the light reaching the lower portions of the plants becomes less. Thus it is common to see first leafs wilting and dying ect. Growers that see leaves wilting or dying, ect, will opt to pulling them off of the plants. It is cool to remvoe dying, yellowing unhelathy leaves. I NEVER remove a helathy leaf.
The main central stalk is topped of just above the branches that are coming out below it. A pair of scissors is best be used.
There are no rules to where you top your plant or how old it needs to be. As long as your plant has shoots protruding further down the main stalk it is able to be topped. When topped the growth of the plant will be concentrated towards the new, younger vegative shoots.
Once you have topped your plant(s) the younger shoots will rapidly begin growing. With the removal of the main central stalk the lower braches grow more. With topping completed we keep the plants on their regular lighting and feeding schedules.
Now each new shoot tip will essentially grow as the main stalk did, however the growth is not concentrated to only one central stalk. So as each new shoot grows outward new shoots will grow from each one of them stalks as well.
Therefore topping can be done again, and again, and as each shoot becomes a growing tip with other shoots forming down its stalk, it is removed. By completing these topping or pruning tactics, a grower can acheive any desired height, or desired bushiness, they desire in their plants.
I TOP and FIM, at the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th week, (I do a rapid Hydro grow) . Look at the results in the pic of my dozen stalks.
With pre-planned Topping and Prunnimg, I was able to persuade a plant to make 12 or 13, (depending on how you count them) to produce 12 oe 13 stalks. got about 46 inches tall, and produced 7 ounces of dried manicured buds.
__________________
My PICS on my thread about Bubbleponics
You sent me a note to visit your thread. You asked me how to increase yield, and how to top and prune and Fim.
Some comments:
You really did very good for your first grow.
I keep my 65 and 85 watt CFLS one and half to two inches away or near. I put my 105s 4 inches away.
Side Lights work wonders.
That DRESSER limits your Plant Height possibilities.
I VEG with Lights running 24 hours a day, non-stop.
I run my feeder tubes 24 hours a day too, and not on a timer.
With an unwelcomed Visitor in the house and with the little sister mentioned, you sure are taking some chances of getting busted. I suggest you limit the number of people who know you are growing.
Your temps were a little high, I am going to post some info on temperatures.
You asked about Topping, Pruning and Fimming, that is all done during the VEG cycle....never during BLOOM cycle.
I feed mine 1/4 nutes when I see 4 full leaves (not counting those first two round ones)
A week later, 1/2, and then full nutes the next week.
Temperatures
Having a garden thrive indoors is an exceptionally rewarding experience. It is rewarding not only because of the outcome but because of the effort involved to actually have your garden succeed. Hobbyists and professional gardeners alike will tell you that when moving a garden indoors, the temperature is the hardest factor to take control of. When confined to a small space ballasts and lights can push temperatures sky-high in no time flat. This is especially true during hot summer months when outside temperature reaches its highest. Nighttime (lights out period) temperature can be just as difficult to regulate during cold winter month.
Most gardeners are aware that temperature in the grow room plays a major role and can greatly affect the growth of plants and the quality of the finished crop. Most gardeners do not know how controlling the temperature of their garden in very specific ways they can achieve a superior crop. Drift to far from these ideal temperatures and watch your plants and crop suffer. In part 1 of this article it will be explained why temperature is so important to the indoor garden and exactly what the ideal temperatures are. In Temperature and the Indoor Garden part 2 you will learn of some amazing products, new and old, that will help regulate temperature in the grow room. These products can save you, the gardener, time, money, and will help supercharge any garden. Before getting started it is highly recommended that every indoor garden has a max/min thermometer. ($4.95 at Wlamert) This product allows the gardener to see exactly the fluctuations in temperature within their garden. Without this useful tool there is no accurate way of knowing the different temperatures between daytime (lights on) and nighttime (lights off). The difference between the two temperatures is very important to plant growth. Anymore than a 10F-15F difference between daytime and nighttime temperatures and you risk shocking and stressing the plants. In general the optimal daytime temperature for plant growth is between 70F -75F. Drift to far above this range or too far below and growth can be severely affected. Daytime temperatures exceeding 90F or under 62F and plant growth will be stunted. If the temperature drifts higher than 95F the plants enzyme production will drop off and the plant will begin shutting down. At temperatures that high photosynthesis shuts down due to the stomata in the leaves closing down to conserve water. At normal temperatures the stomata will be open, taking in CO2 and sweating water to keep the plant cool and allowing for transpiration.
These temperature ranges will vary depending on variety and species of plant. For instance, some orchids require more than a 10F-15F difference between daytime and nighttime temperatures in order to flower.
Ideal temperature also varies depending on whether or not CO2 is being introduced to the environment. A more suitable daytime temperature when the air is being enriched with CO2 is 80F-85F. This temperature range promotes the exchange of gases between the plants and the environment. Also, it can speed up the process of photosynthesis. Plant in an environment at 86F an perform carbon extraction from CO2 twice as fast as at 68F. It is still recommended that the nighttime temperature drop no more than 15f from that of the daytime temperature. There is another relationship between temperature and the absorbsion of gases by plants that many hobbyist growers are aware of. That is the relationship between the temperature of the water in your reservoir and the amount of oxygen the water can hold. The best range that your reservoir can be between is 60F-75F. Ideally the reservoir temperature should be at 65F because this level contains the most oxygen. Also this temperature will help control transpiration (the act of drawing up nutrients by evaporating water through out the leaves), and humidity levels. Buying a simple floating thermometer will allow you to know where you fit in this range.
Another great reason for regulating the temperature in your grow room s that biological processes can be speed up exponentially by every degree. This is true for your plants as well as the potential pests that may invade your grow room. Pests such as spider mites can reproduce up to 10 times faster with every degree the temperature rises. These pests can destroy a garden in no time flat, you really do not want to make it any easier for them. With a daytime temperature at a steady 72F and nighttime temperature of 65F it is much easier to control and destroy spider mite, thrip, and many other pest populations.
The same principal can be applied to the prevention and control of fungi, molds, mildews, and bacteria, which can spread more rapidly when temperatures in the grow room or reservoir exceed 90F. Also, the warmer the air, the more water it can retain which means humidity levels can easily go beyond the recommended 40-50%. This high humidity coupled with lower nighttime temperatures can cause condensation to form on leaves. This will invite molds, mildews, fungi, and bacteria to take over you grow space. With high temperatures the likely-hood of losing control of the problem, such as powdery mildew, is very high. Once control is lost your plants may be the next to go.
Temperature is also very important when it comes to starting seeds and getting cuttings to root. Placing seedling trays on a heating mat will reduce germination time dramatically. Speeding up germination time usually leads to stronger and healthier plants. Also, less time spent between crop cycles makes a garden efficient. More harvests provided in less time can equal big bucks in the pockets of professional growers.
The ideal temperature to achieve these results is 80F. Any higher and you risk burning the roots. Also, many seeds simply will not germinate at temperatures over 90F. The seeds will become dormant and never sprout.
The same principal used for seeds is used on cuttings to coax roots out quicker. The sooner cuttings can establish roots the better. If roots can be forced quickly they will grow strong and stay strong. A bottom temperature of 80F-85F, roughly 10F warmer than the air, will speed up rooting time and help to jump start those roots once they do begin. Let the temperature get too high or too low and roots growth will be hindered or they will never grow at all. Using the proper technique and the proper temperature for bottom heat not only can rooting time be speed up from 2 weeks to as little as 3 days, but the survival rate of your cuttings will drastically improve.
On the topic of roots, there is an ideal temperature for the root zone after the plants roots have been established. Roots are working 24 hours a day and constant attention is required concerning temperature in and around the root zone. The ideal temp for this root zone is generally 75F. At this temperature the ion exchange between the roots and the environment around them is at its absolute best. This means that the plants root system can take up more macro nutrients, more micro nutrients, and more oxygen at this temperature than at any other level. This makes a plant more efficient and a plant working efficiently will provide a superior yield.
Topping, Pruning, Fimming
Essentially they are the same, "Pruning" and "Topping", just two different commonly words used. Fimming means a lot of indesriminate Topping. It is also known to some as "Pinching" as well. In this page it will be refered to it as "Topping"
Topping is done to increase yield and make them bushy, bushy, bushy, make more buds, promote "branching", and increase the overall yeilds of the plants. With higher overall yeilds, a grower will successfully harvest many more budds, or floral clusters, and from smaller, bushier and more compact plants.
To the indoor grower that does not use this technique, but allows their plants to grow tall, it can be a waste of their artificial lighting, and growing spaces potential. With its own natural growth pattern, and without the benifit of topping, your lady will have one main central "khola" budd, at peak flowering. Several other small branches will grow outwards, down its main stalk, with much smaller budd topps.
The natural growth pattern is to grow upwards at its main stalk. From this main central stalk will begin to grow side branches. The side branches come out as tiny shoots with leaves, and usually there are a pair of them on opposite sides of the main central stalk.
When the seed leaves have long dyed off on the main stalk. The first true seed leaves commonly can or will, wilt, dry up, or dye off of the plant as well. (the little round ones) Once healthy new vegative growth begins the rate of growth can be very fast, with excellent lighting supplied.
As the new growth increases the light reaching the lower portions of the plants becomes less. Thus it is common to see first leafs wilting and dying ect. Growers that see leaves wilting or dying, ect, will opt to pulling them off of the plants. It is cool to remvoe dying, yellowing unhelathy leaves. I NEVER remove a helathy leaf.
The main central stalk is topped of just above the branches that are coming out below it. A pair of scissors is best be used.
There are no rules to where you top your plant or how old it needs to be. As long as your plant has shoots protruding further down the main stalk it is able to be topped. When topped the growth of the plant will be concentrated towards the new, younger vegative shoots.
Once you have topped your plant(s) the younger shoots will rapidly begin growing. With the removal of the main central stalk the lower braches grow more. With topping completed we keep the plants on their regular lighting and feeding schedules.
Now each new shoot tip will essentially grow as the main stalk did, however the growth is not concentrated to only one central stalk. So as each new shoot grows outward new shoots will grow from each one of them stalks as well.
Therefore topping can be done again, and again, and as each shoot becomes a growing tip with other shoots forming down its stalk, it is removed. By completing these topping or pruning tactics, a grower can acheive any desired height, or desired bushiness, they desire in their plants.
I TOP and FIM, at the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th week, (I do a rapid Hydro grow) . Look at the results in the pic of my dozen stalks.
With pre-planned Topping and Prunnimg, I was able to persuade a plant to make 12 or 13, (depending on how you count them) to produce 12 oe 13 stalks. got about 46 inches tall, and produced 7 ounces of dried manicured buds.
__________________
My PICS on my thread about Bubbleponics