chilLED: water cooled, ducted, or active led fixture
nevergoodenuf
Well-Known Member
I prefer the CLU058 3618@ 250w 
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loftygoals
Well-Known Member
That's not the question to ask.
The questions to ask are:
How much electricity is your chiller using (water cooled setup)?
How much electricity is your AC using (air cooled setup)?
Which one gives you 5% extra light?
SirWalrus
Member
A DIY glycol chiller might be an interesting experiment instead of buying an expensive water chiller (since the homebrew topic was brought up). For fermentation temp control, many brewers use essentially an old air conditioner with the housing removed, radiator submerged into a cooler with glycol solution, and a submersible pump to push liquid through the tubing. As a replacement for air cooling via AC, it seems like it'd be more efficient in terms of heat dissipation from light output. However, I'm assuming a lot of people use the same AC unit for general temp control in their grow rooms as well. So maybe not cost efficient in that scenario.
wietefras
Well-Known Member
You sound like one of those burple fixture noobs who keep screaming they are using only half the electricity of HPS. You can keep explaining to them that they were deceived by the sales people, but they just don't want to hear it.
Then when the harvest comes and they have less than half the weight you would expect, they sometimes still don't get it. Some people never get over the sales pitch.
I'm not comparing water cooled vs air cooled. I'm comparing water cooled with a chiller vs water cooled with a radiator.
If he makes these claims at least he should state that it only works for him because he's in a area were ambient temperature is 30C or higher. Most people would not even need an AC when using COBs. Especially if you extract most all of the heat already with a water cooled system connected to a radiator (outside of the grow room). I'm running in 28C ambient and I don't need an AC.
Yet he makes the singular claim that cooling his water to below ambient is giving him 5-10% extra efficiency for "free". That this really is the only way to unlock the full potential of the COBs. That's "burple fixture marketing" blabla right there. Obviously there is a cost.
He can't answer any of those questions though.
guod
Well-Known Member
ttystick is talking BS
from a simple water-cooler (Tj 45°C) to a Water-chiller (Tj 5°C) we have an increase of about 7%. for this we need about more then 50W cooling power.
numbers are based on 1 liter(1000 ccm) of cooling liquid
sixstring2112
Well-Known Member
what if we just over size the passive heatsinks and our normal room enviro keeps those sinks @ or below tj25 ? running 36v cobs @ 1050ma and using 140mm pins i cant even feel any warmth coming from them,nor do i find any spots other than the les where temps are more than 78f.
guod
Well-Known Member
only chilled coolers can stay or go below ambient temps.
sixstring2112
Well-Known Member
Ok so the cob needs to be below ambient to see higher efficiency?
sixstring2112
Well-Known Member
Ok i see now you guys are talking about cooling them down to 5c lol
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
No, I'm just cooling them to 55F.
Krippled
Well-Known Member
Looks as though one could look at a CPU heatpipe style heatsink and come up with something usable.. Everybody needs to check out electronupdate. Experiments in Cooling a super bright 100watt LED module on utube.. He submerges a coband fan in mineral oil and fires it up...
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Have yall factored in the fact that with the increased light output at lower temperatures, voltage rises as well? So its consuming more electricity.
I feel like water cooling is only necessary if you plan on driving the COBs very hard, and it would seem no one typically does that anyways.
I do think a regular water block would be superior though if you wanted to go that route. The fact is the PC cooling guys have done all the leg work for us light builders when it comes to water cooling.
I would be curious about the effectiveness of the water cooling setup in the OP though. To me though it just doesnt seem necessary and without actively cooling the water Im skeptical that it would be much of a performance gain compared to simply pushing some more air through it. Again lots of research and effort has already been done in the PC industry on this topic.
I feel like water cooling is only necessary if you plan on driving the COBs very hard, and it would seem no one typically does that anyways.
I do think a regular water block would be superior though if you wanted to go that route. The fact is the PC cooling guys have done all the leg work for us light builders when it comes to water cooling.
I would be curious about the effectiveness of the water cooling setup in the OP though. To me though it just doesnt seem necessary and without actively cooling the water Im skeptical that it would be much of a performance gain compared to simply pushing some more air through it. Again lots of research and effort has already been done in the PC industry on this topic.
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
I'm tired of everyone's back and forth. Does the water cooling theyre doing effect you in any way whatsoever?
OP you wanna water cool, fuckin do-it-to-it.
OP you wanna water cool, fuckin do-it-to-it.
sixstring2112
Well-Known Member
Never mind the fact that water and electronic stuff dont mix well therefore I personally could not sleep knowing my shit is 1 pinhole away from major catastrophic failures lol
But i can see where its beneficial to ttystikk because he already had his whole op setup for water cooling. 7% gains at optimal levels vs the cost to run said cooler seems like a wash,then you add the higher voltage and it is probably 4 or 5%.
But i can see where its beneficial to ttystikk because he already had his whole op setup for water cooling. 7% gains at optimal levels vs the cost to run said cooler seems like a wash,then you add the higher voltage and it is probably 4 or 5%.
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
Voltage gain is cumulative with low temp efficiency gain, bro- the 824 PPfD I thought I was getting originally had mushroomed to well over 925 PPfD according to some people's calculations. Not mine, I didn't know how to do the math.
I'm actually getting light burn on my plants.
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
I most certainly have, early and often. I speak regularly of my use of water cooled air handlers, which use cold water from my chiller to both cool and dehumidify the grow space.
Not in this thread, which is the whole point. Not once in this thread did you mention you had already sunk the cost of the chiller and running it into your setup, otherwise I doubt people would have called you out on the "free lunch" idea. The argument there, Im pretty sure, was that you would be adding a chiller, not using an existing one... and assuming you didnt already have a chiller in your setup, your argument kinda implodes.
As I stated, the arguments for water cooling and air cooling have been done countless times by the PC guys. No one is breaking new ground here.
"according to some people's calculations" ?? This is how Trump brings up topics. It doesnt work for him and it doesnt work here unfortunately either. What LEDs are you getting these calculations from? The ones in the OP?
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