Use distilled or RO water, the higher the salt content the more corrosive, but the level of scale build up could be treated by running CLR or other descaler through the system. Generally speaking, mixing aluminum and copper or brass won't really present a problem in most water cooled systems.Caution: don't mix metals in your water loop. They will corrode over time and potentially gum up the system.
If your water blocks are copper your radiator should be copper too. Titanium is also acceptable which is why it's used in chiller heat exchangers.
Use 4' bars man. 8' is way too big. You'll have so much more versatility and ability to move them around where they need to be higher in some spots or whatever.So for the "bar" are you using the extruded rectangular aluminum tubing? I settled on the 6" x 1.5" because it seemed to give a larger surface:volume ratio which I thought would help dissipate the heat better. I can weld, but don't have aluminum mig capability at this time (need to upgrade my little gasless mig) so I would have the end caps done for me, also have the fittings welded at each end. Thinking of going with either pex or cpvc tubing, pex is more flexible and tougher, but cpvc is easier/cheaper to work with. Any preferences??
Then thinking of using a Grundfos recirc pump, the kinds I used to install in radiant heat apps, as they are as reliable as they come, and operate very efficiently. Then pipe to an external (outside the room) used car radiator (get em on eBay for as low as $35) and box fan to remove heat, but since my basement can get cold in the winter, I'm thinking of cutting a hole in the sheetrock and putting a sealed panel. That way, in the winter, I can just reverse the box fan and open the door to put the heat back in the room.
Yeah, I think a single 8 footer is too unwieldy, and HEAVY, so probably will, although I liked the idea of the longer units due to fewer welds/fittings/and connectors which increase the number of failure points. Have to decides once I get the materials.
So any critiques of this idea? It's much cheaper imo because the tubing acts as frame as well, from what I've read the cooling should be superior provided it's designed properly, and I like the added challenge of working out a new way to do things, always liked reinventing the wheel, lol.
Shugglet is right, copper is not required, but if you wanted to and didn't mind dropping the bucks, go for it. Don't expect any difference in how the system runs for your extra investment however.How would you use the tubing? I was looking at copper, rectangular copper tube does exist, but it AIN'T CHEAP, lol. How would you interface the cobs to them, solder a square piece of copper plate to a coil of copper pipe?
Check out my thread for info on water coolingSo for the "bar" are you using the extruded rectangular aluminum tubing? I settled on the 6" x 1.5" because it seemed to give a larger surface:volume ratio which I thought would help dissipate the heat better. I can weld, but don't have aluminum mig capability at this time (need to upgrade my little gasless mig) so I would have the end caps done for me, also have the fittings welded at each end. Thinking of going with either pex or cpvc tubing, pex is more flexible and tougher, but cpvc is easier/cheaper to work with. Any preferences??
Then thinking of using a Grundfos recirc pump, the kinds I used to install in radiant heat apps, as they are as reliable as they come, and operate very efficiently. Then pipe to an external (outside the room) used car radiator (get em on eBay for as low as $35) and box fan to remove heat, but since my basement can get cold in the winter, I'm thinking of cutting a hole in the sheetrock and putting a sealed panel. That way, in the winter, I can just reverse the box fan and open the door to put the heat back in the room.
Yeah, I think a single 8 footer is too unwieldy, and HEAVY, so probably will, although I liked the idea of the longer units due to fewer welds/fittings/and connectors which increase the number of failure points. Have to decides once I get the materials.
So any critiques of this idea? It's much cheaper imo because the tubing acts as frame as well, from what I've read the cooling should be superior provided it's designed properly, and I like the added challenge of working out a new way to do things, always liked reinventing the wheel, lol.
As someone who has run into this issue in a small water loop (alu rad, copper blocks, distilled water) I can tell you that's not always true. Within 6-8 months I saw corrosion inside my loop.Use distilled or RO water, the higher the salt content the more corrosive, but the level of scale build up could be treated by running CLR or other descaler through the system. Generally speaking, mixing aluminum and copper or brass won't really present a problem in most water cooled systems.
I'm basically an experimenter so I'll take the chance, if corrosion becomes an issue, I'll run some dilute acid through the tubes to clean and even etch them to improve performance. Also there are additives that can help prevent electrolytic corrosion by reducing the conductivity of the coolant. Distilled water is not very conductive and plastic hose between dissimilar metals helps too. I believe antifreeze or some other automotive cooling additive formulated for aluminum engine blocks might do too. Thanks for the info though, I haven't been running my system that long so I'll keep an eye out for corrosion.As someone who has run into this issue in a small water loop (alu rad, copper blocks, distilled water) I can tell you that's not always true. Within 6-8 months I saw corrosion inside my loop.
There are loads of reports on the net of the same thing happening to others. Sure you might get lucky.... or you might not. Why take the chance? Totally avoidable.
You can get around this issue easily by using zinc plugs. Army Corps of Engineers use them on metal structures in fresh and salt water to great effect.Caution: don't mix metals in your water loop. They will corrode over time and potentially gum up the system.
If your water blocks are copper your radiator should be copper too. Titanium is also acceptable which is why it's used in chiller heat exchangers.
It's just a damn mess to clean up if a connection fails.I would think an antifreeze mix would be best as it helps prevent corrosion.
Well without the protection afforded by the anti-corrosive properties of antifreeze, you could end up with more corrosion issues including leaks.It's just a damn mess to clean up if a connection fails.
Unless part of your cooling system is exposed to potentially subrogation temperatures, antifreeze does NO GOOD AT ALL. It's there for protection, that's it.
Hey Loftygoals, I was a plumber for many years and while the principle you're talking about (electrolysis) is a real problem, it's only if the two dissimilar metals actually come into contact with one another. That's why they make these things called dielectric unions, with are just a metal union with a plastic sleeve/gasket to prevent contact. The water itself will not cause this problem.Caution: don't mix metals in your water loop. They will corrode over time and potentially gum up the system.
If your water blocks are copper your radiator should be copper too. Titanium is also acceptable which is why it's used in chiller heat exchangers.
This is interesting. All my hoses are vinyl so dissimilar metals in different components are well separated. I've yet to experience any corrosion problems.Well without the protection afforded by the anti-corrosive properties of antifreeze, you could end up with more corrosion issues including leaks.
But this is why I wanted to do it using a single bar. From other posts I've seen on this type of cooling system, with all the tubes/fittings, there's far more likelihood of exactly that, whereas with this system there's just two fittings per fixture, 1 inlet and 1 outlet.
So I think I'll give this a try, the parts I ordered from Cobkits is for a trial build anyway, so might as well go all in and see what I can find out. I always say, in for a penny in for pound, lol. But with this trial version I'll probably down-size the pump and heat exchanger, keep it simple until I can work out the kinks, or decide to scrap the idea, vamos a ver ;?D
Hey Loftygoals, I was a plumber for many years and while the principle you're talking about (electrolysis) is a real problem, it's only if the two dissimilar metals actually come into contact with one another. That's why they make these things called dielectric unions, with are just a metal union with a plastic sleeve/gasket to prevent contact. The water itself will not cause this problem.
I do agree that distilled water is not the "solutions", lol. Seriously, distilled water is "empty" water, and as such will add to your corrosion problems. Water is actually a solvent, often called the universal solvent. and distilled water is often called "hungry" water, because it has nothing in solution and so will readily absorb anything including minerals or particles from metals until it has reached a level of equalibrium.
Some argue that they've been told that it's better to add distilled water to their car's radiator, which may sound good since it has no minerals like tap water, but the fact is you are not using STRAIGHT distilled H2o, but mixed with antifreeze, which then negates the problem. I'm probably going to try a 50/50 solution of cheap store bought antifreeze (may dilute it a bit more depending on the size of my system), which should give me the best protection against corrosion, imo.
Mine went at 35 years. I was actually there when it did; I heard it start, followed the hissing noise to it, shut off the water supply and saved the whole basement from flooding!How many ppms? Mine's pretty clean as well, averages around 35-40 ppm, and my water heater is 30 years old, so that may be a good thing ;?)
They're not even that expensive, and new ones are generally better insulated and thus more efficient. Plus, take the chance to upgrade to a bigger unit, adds value to your home.HAH, funny you should mention that, mine is also in the basement and has developed a very small leak, not enough to even see when the dehumidifier is running, but when I turn it off, a wet spot appears but doesn't go but a couple of feet from the heater - mine is an A.O. Smith btw, a great brand but I'm afraid it's about to give up the ghost, and I'm just too busy/lazy to replace it. But I know I need to get on it, cuz last thing I want to come home to is a burst water heater and several inches of water throughout, lol.