Club T5
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PetFlora
Well-Known Member
Today's pic from my 21st Century F & D using AP. I just saw the photo from a week ago posted a few pages back.
Check this out. The plant from previous photo (4 days ago) is in the background. It's now ~ 12" tall. The one in the front is on a 6" stand to get closer to the light. It, too is growing crazy fast. PPMs < 700, feeding hourly
AND these are too far from the fixture > 9", but best I can do. I would say (not that that is what it was about) T5s can be up higher than we thought. They are growing comparably to my HPA plants, which have been within 2" of the bulbs. So MAYBE, having the bulbs higher helps the various spectrums to blend together better. If anything, the F & D (first pic) has bigger primary leaves. Both have excellent nodes. 2 plants from the hpa side already have pistils.
This surprises me as these are all a cross between my previous 7ft Sat and an Indica male. Also, they are under 14/10 with veg nutes ~ 650 ppms. Maybe the closer light placement has promoted sexing. Dunno, but not unhappy, though I was hoping for another 6" before flipping. Could be the Sat genetics thinking 14/10 is a sign to flower.
View attachment 2145808 View attachment 2145910
Check this out. The plant from previous photo (4 days ago) is in the background. It's now ~ 12" tall. The one in the front is on a 6" stand to get closer to the light. It, too is growing crazy fast. PPMs < 700, feeding hourly
AND these are too far from the fixture > 9", but best I can do. I would say (not that that is what it was about) T5s can be up higher than we thought. They are growing comparably to my HPA plants, which have been within 2" of the bulbs. So MAYBE, having the bulbs higher helps the various spectrums to blend together better. If anything, the F & D (first pic) has bigger primary leaves. Both have excellent nodes. 2 plants from the hpa side already have pistils.
This surprises me as these are all a cross between my previous 7ft Sat and an Indica male. Also, they are under 14/10 with veg nutes ~ 650 ppms. Maybe the closer light placement has promoted sexing. Dunno, but not unhappy, though I was hoping for another 6" before flipping. Could be the Sat genetics thinking 14/10 is a sign to flower.
View attachment 2145808 View attachment 2145910
PetFlora
Well-Known Member
Nope. Lava rock. I tried it last grow out of necessity, only not in APs. Clearly it is a dynamic combination. That's why I call it 21st Century F & D. It allows me to feed (flood) every hour instead of every 3-4 hours. So my plants are feeding 6-8Xs more per day. BAM 
FYI read my edits above in post 462.
And since 2 have sexed (and others look ready to) I flipped to 12/12 last night (for ~ 5 days) then down to ~ 10/14. Just have to keep an eye on em.
FYI prior to germing these I had read a blog about how to spot female seeds. Basically at the non pointed end, if it looks like a moon crater, it is supposed to be a female. Well, I tried it, and looks like I have 6/6 females
FYI read my edits above in post 462.
And since 2 have sexed (and others look ready to) I flipped to 12/12 last night (for ~ 5 days) then down to ~ 10/14. Just have to keep an eye on em.
FYI prior to germing these I had read a blog about how to spot female seeds. Basically at the non pointed end, if it looks like a moon crater, it is supposed to be a female. Well, I tried it, and looks like I have 6/6 females
PetFlora
Well-Known Member
Aha, found the reason for seemingly premature pistils. Below is a reply in a Mix Your Own Nutes thread, I came across about 1.5 y ago. Glad I saved it! I highlighted the money sentence (for me) in bold blue :
There are mainly two types that are based on former and newer scientific results.
1. about 180 N versus 220 P, is the more recommended formula for a hot, tropical or not fully climate controlled and rather warm indoor climate (high light heat output).
2. 220 N versus 180K (could vary but for the sake of simplicity, I'll just reverse it, as it is damn close) for a cooler climate or if you prefer, growing conditions clearly under 20-25° C.
The actual need of Phosphorus is even much lower as commonly believed and in fact under 30 ppm. The sole purpose of higher P in any commercial formula is for better pH buffer and to differentiate various products in terms of making the need for different growing stage formulas credible. Up to 50 ppm and exceptionally 60 can be used to better buffer pH.
Above that level (or let's say 80), Phosphorus and Calcium antagonism (the more P the more likely) is inevitable. I agree with the earlier statement (don't remember who said so), as it confirms what I have posted here earlier - that the for grow/bloom stage, a higher nutrient concentration for bloom stage should be good enough. Slightly higher K content and still the same low P ratio for blooming could be modified and do no harm, but most chromatic analyses I've seen aren't even justifying this.
mj plants are actually capable of being selective in their nutrient uptakes if you get in the ball park of their needs without being deficient or going grossly over board in nitrogen or calcium. They are not high maintenance like old high school prom queens. Many people say they are weeds. I would not go so far to say that but I will say they are very resilient.
These are simple DTW Formulations using just standard fertilizer salts. The only thing that you need to watch for is the calcium content of the Calcium Nitarte used. These formulation were calculated for calcium Nitrate with 15.5% Nitrogen and 20% Calcium.
These are 100 X concentrations. This means by using 19 ml per gallon of each per each gallon of mixed nutes you will be able to prepare 200 gallons of nutes in the ppm strength shown. Of course this is stronger than needed with most drain to waste systems. For an example with misted cyclic aero the TDS is 250 to 550 ppm during veg and 450 to 600 ppm during budding. (SO..., I assume by dropping my nutes back ~ 400 I can slow pistil development) Ima do it now
The pH will need to be raised by use of sodium silicate. The pH only needs to be adjusted once with DTW as it will not change while awaiting use.
The beneficial effects of silicon (Si) are threefold: 1) it protects against chewing insects, and 2) it protects against toxicity of metals, and 3) it lessens moldy mildew caused by high humidity at night during budding. I recommend adding silicon (at about 0.05 mM) to DWT nutrient solutions, both veg and bloom.
I typically use a minimum of 0.05mM (millimole) and adjust the pH up with moreif needed or down with phosphoric if needed.
A millimole is 0.001 millimole of pure Sodium Silicate. That is (122*0.0001) = 0.0122 grams. However, most sodium silicate is sold at 40% or 0.4 mole per liter. That means there is (122*0.4)= 49 grams per liter in the typical 40% strength sodium Silicate. (49/0.0122) = (1000/X) so, x= [(0.0122*1000)/49] = 0.248 ml per quart of nutrient water. There are 3.79 liters per gallon so (0.248*3.79) = 0.94 ml per gallon that is roughly one teaspoon per each 15 gallons of nutrient water as there are 15 ml to a teaspoon. That can raise the pH up to a full pH point. Therefore I suggest that you start by adding just 0.05 mM (1 teaspoon per 30 gallons).
There are mainly two types that are based on former and newer scientific results.
1. about 180 N versus 220 P, is the more recommended formula for a hot, tropical or not fully climate controlled and rather warm indoor climate (high light heat output).
2. 220 N versus 180K (could vary but for the sake of simplicity, I'll just reverse it, as it is damn close) for a cooler climate or if you prefer, growing conditions clearly under 20-25° C.
The actual need of Phosphorus is even much lower as commonly believed and in fact under 30 ppm. The sole purpose of higher P in any commercial formula is for better pH buffer and to differentiate various products in terms of making the need for different growing stage formulas credible. Up to 50 ppm and exceptionally 60 can be used to better buffer pH.
Above that level (or let's say 80), Phosphorus and Calcium antagonism (the more P the more likely) is inevitable. I agree with the earlier statement (don't remember who said so), as it confirms what I have posted here earlier - that the for grow/bloom stage, a higher nutrient concentration for bloom stage should be good enough. Slightly higher K content and still the same low P ratio for blooming could be modified and do no harm, but most chromatic analyses I've seen aren't even justifying this.
mj plants are actually capable of being selective in their nutrient uptakes if you get in the ball park of their needs without being deficient or going grossly over board in nitrogen or calcium. They are not high maintenance like old high school prom queens. Many people say they are weeds. I would not go so far to say that but I will say they are very resilient.
These are simple DTW Formulations using just standard fertilizer salts. The only thing that you need to watch for is the calcium content of the Calcium Nitarte used. These formulation were calculated for calcium Nitrate with 15.5% Nitrogen and 20% Calcium.
These are 100 X concentrations. This means by using 19 ml per gallon of each per each gallon of mixed nutes you will be able to prepare 200 gallons of nutes in the ppm strength shown. Of course this is stronger than needed with most drain to waste systems. For an example with misted cyclic aero the TDS is 250 to 550 ppm during veg and 450 to 600 ppm during budding. (SO..., I assume by dropping my nutes back ~ 400 I can slow pistil development) Ima do it now
The pH will need to be raised by use of sodium silicate. The pH only needs to be adjusted once with DTW as it will not change while awaiting use.
The beneficial effects of silicon (Si) are threefold: 1) it protects against chewing insects, and 2) it protects against toxicity of metals, and 3) it lessens moldy mildew caused by high humidity at night during budding. I recommend adding silicon (at about 0.05 mM) to DWT nutrient solutions, both veg and bloom.
I typically use a minimum of 0.05mM (millimole) and adjust the pH up with moreif needed or down with phosphoric if needed.
A millimole is 0.001 millimole of pure Sodium Silicate. That is (122*0.0001) = 0.0122 grams. However, most sodium silicate is sold at 40% or 0.4 mole per liter. That means there is (122*0.4)= 49 grams per liter in the typical 40% strength sodium Silicate. (49/0.0122) = (1000/X) so, x= [(0.0122*1000)/49] = 0.248 ml per quart of nutrient water. There are 3.79 liters per gallon so (0.248*3.79) = 0.94 ml per gallon that is roughly one teaspoon per each 15 gallons of nutrient water as there are 15 ml to a teaspoon. That can raise the pH up to a full pH point. Therefore I suggest that you start by adding just 0.05 mM (1 teaspoon per 30 gallons).
PSUAGRO.
Well-Known Member
Good question...........he hasn't popped up in his own thread for quite some time............
PetFlora
Well-Known Member
^^^^fucking great info PET............especially about how to spot female seeds/excellent..........Hmmmm lava as a medium/interesting.....oh and ^^LIKE^^
Well, I thought I had 6/6 female. Since dropping the ppms one is showing balls, another may be a male too, so it is far from accurate. The larger of the two in the F & D is female; not sure about the other. As long as I grab 6-8 clones from the best phenos, I'll be very happy
PetFlora
Well-Known Member
Just a quick update: 4/6 are males., so the seed inspection is not 100%. The F & D continues to blow away my hpa to the point I think something is wrong in there. I'm guessing it's coverage, so I went from 2 dual head misters to 3 single heads. It may be too late to make any huge improvements to the plants themselves, but it will be interesting to see whether this makes a discernible difference: it should.
Here's a pic of the heads
Here's a pic of the heads
will.i.am86
Well-Known Member
I've been growing outside for the last 5 years, but just moved and now unable to grow outdoors so i will be switching to indoor. This will be my first indoor grow. I'll be growing in a closet 5'x4'x7', and just wanted to know how many plants and what kind of yield i can expect (depending on strain of course), i just want an average guess.
I have 2 4' 4 bulb t5's and was thinking of using:
Veg
2x6500k's
1xFiji purple
1x Blue
per each 4bulb setup
Bud
2x2700k's
1xRed sun
1xFigi purple
per each 4 bulb setup
I wont be spliting the room into veg and budding, i'll be keeping all plants at the same stage. I have another closet open if i want to keep a few mothers later on.
Any advice is welcomed
I have 2 4' 4 bulb t5's and was thinking of using:
Veg
2x6500k's
1xFiji purple
1x Blue
per each 4bulb setup
Bud
2x2700k's
1xRed sun
1xFigi purple
per each 4 bulb setup
I wont be spliting the room into veg and budding, i'll be keeping all plants at the same stage. I have another closet open if i want to keep a few mothers later on.
Any advice is welcomed
PetFlora
Well-Known Member
Wil.I.am86
The fiji purps are questionable.
If you are growing Indica you don't need more blue than the2 @ 6500s provide. Consider replacing them with 2 ZooMed FloraSuns. Ditto flower
Re: Pic in post 472. I replaced the single head mister in the middle with a dual head. This set up should be vg for 2 mature plants
The fiji purps are questionable.
If you are growing Indica you don't need more blue than the2 @ 6500s provide. Consider replacing them with 2 ZooMed FloraSuns. Ditto flower
Re: Pic in post 472. I replaced the single head mister in the middle with a dual head. This set up should be vg for 2 mature plants
Dr.J20
Well-Known Member
I'm guessing once i get a little further in the thread the fiji purple discussion will explode...I'm just about to set up an 8 bulb badboy, planning to veg 5 girls under it (in organic global buckets). BUT i'm only going to grow out 4 under the badboy, and save one for a cfl mom chamber i've got. SO, back to the fiji's: I'm just looking for a page number to start reading about the controversy
thanks guys!
Dr.J20
Well-Known Member
ok, so i checked out this thread for the fiji convo but i'm guessing it takes place in pr0f's thread...however, having now caught up, seems like LV and PET are working with cheaper bulbs and getting great results.
If this was going to be my bulb setup (it's pr0f's original) can you guys help me choose which of these to save and which to change...im pretty sold on replacing fiji with the zoomed flora suns
VEG:
FLO:
-Fiji
-UVL Red Sun 630nm
-UVL Super ACTINIC
-UVL Red Sun 630nm
-Fiji
-UVL 454nm
-UVL Red Sun 630nm
-Fiji
sounds like quantum's bulbs are something to look at...thoughts?
Be easy
also, if i'm only going for four girls, would you say 2x 4'x4 badboys or 1 4'x8?
If this was going to be my bulb setup (it's pr0f's original) can you guys help me choose which of these to save and which to change...im pretty sold on replacing fiji with the zoomed flora suns
VEG:
- Fiji
- UVL Red Sun 630nm
- UVL Super ACTINIC @ 420nm
- UVL 75.25
- Fiji
- UVL 454nm
- Red Sun 630nm
- Fiji
FLO:
-Fiji
-UVL Red Sun 630nm
-UVL Super ACTINIC
-UVL Red Sun 630nm
-Fiji
-UVL 454nm
-UVL Red Sun 630nm
-Fiji
sounds like quantum's bulbs are something to look at...thoughts?
Be easy
also, if i'm only going for four girls, would you say 2x 4'x4 badboys or 1 4'x8?
will.i.am86
Well-Known Member
Yeah I'm 50/50 on the figi's or just using an extra 6500k/2700k. It's a bitch switching to indoor, I've never had to worry about how much light when growing outside in florida.
Dr.J20
Well-Known Member
Or i guess the Zoo Med FLora Suns plus switching the UVL super actinic to the wave point CORAL WAVE in flower...
i'm probably going to add in the coral wave instead of the super actinic during flower either way, but still need to figure out whether switching from fijis altogether
be easy
i'm probably going to add in the coral wave instead of the super actinic during flower either way, but still need to figure out whether switching from fijis altogether
be easy
Lucius Vorenus
Well-Known Member
Did em all already, side by side. The Flora Suns mixed with Agromax 3000k's grew the biggest buds with the most Trichomes.
Take my word for it, or go drop a couple hundred bucks on bulbs. My grows are pretty well documented.
Good luck!
Take my word for it, or go drop a couple hundred bucks on bulbs. My grows are pretty well documented.
Good luck!
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