BobBitchen
Well-Known Member
on board with this too !...
got a few questions..... can't think of em at the moment.....
Club Vert(600)
- Thread starter genuity
- Start date
got a few questions..... can't think of em at the moment.....
BobBitchen
Well-Known Member
Ok, a bit less baked this morning..
trying to figure out how to go vert, while in the middle of perpetual grow.
Flowering in a 4x4, with a 600 & 400 HPS
veging in 3x3 with T5's & 250cfl
I have another 3x3 I'm not using at the moment,
thinking of moving the 400 into the empty 3x3 to finish
the last plants already in flower, pulling the other1/2 of the tent next week
go vert in 4x4 with the 600, with plants in veg now,
then go vert in 400 after this run.
Thoughts?
trying to figure out how to go vert, while in the middle of perpetual grow.
Flowering in a 4x4, with a 600 & 400 HPS
veging in 3x3 with T5's & 250cfl
I have another 3x3 I'm not using at the moment,
thinking of moving the 400 into the empty 3x3 to finish
the last plants already in flower, pulling the other1/2 of the tent next week
go vert in 4x4 with the 600, with plants in veg now,
then go vert in 400 after this run.
Thoughts?
DST
Well-Known Member
I would say it depends on the height you are working with, Bob. For me vert becomes worth it when you can add canopy footprint to the fixed area you are working with. If it was me, I would be using the 600 and 400 stacked on top of each other in the 4x4 area. Keep your existing veg area and then you can always do something else in the 3x3 if you want to.
Things that I have found out in my vertical journey.
1/ plants like to be blown down upon. If you have fans blowing up into your space you will probably get wind burn on the leaves.
2/ get fresh air coming into the top and bottom of the cab. Especially if your using cool tubes and your filter is down below, which it often needs to be in a vert set up if, you are utilising the top part of the area for plants and light spread. Fresh air falling down onto your plants with fans blowing down is one of the best improvements I have made.
3/ Like normal growing, if you are restrcited by numbers, veg time pays off. Grow them big and keep them trained back against a net or gate/whatever to obtain max light spread. I,E don't let the plants smother your lights, this seriously effects yield.
4/ Having shelves: a previous poster complained that people where not growing vertical as they didn't have shelves with 4zillion small plants on them. No worries, each to their own. If you are going to create shelves and use multiple lights, ensure the medium that your plants on the shelves grow in, are well protected from the heat and glare from your lights. Not doing so seriously reduces root health, can often dry roots out, and is generally a ballache for the health and stamina of your ladies.
5/ Growing them big. You can create individual scrog screens vertically very easily. And the good thing is with vertical you can grow 6 foot tall plants if you have the height. Spread them out and watch as you get main colas growing out the middle of your plants
I am sure I'll add more in time. Any more Q's just let us know
Peace, DST
Things that I have found out in my vertical journey.
1/ plants like to be blown down upon. If you have fans blowing up into your space you will probably get wind burn on the leaves.
2/ get fresh air coming into the top and bottom of the cab. Especially if your using cool tubes and your filter is down below, which it often needs to be in a vert set up if, you are utilising the top part of the area for plants and light spread. Fresh air falling down onto your plants with fans blowing down is one of the best improvements I have made.
3/ Like normal growing, if you are restrcited by numbers, veg time pays off. Grow them big and keep them trained back against a net or gate/whatever to obtain max light spread. I,E don't let the plants smother your lights, this seriously effects yield.
4/ Having shelves: a previous poster complained that people where not growing vertical as they didn't have shelves with 4zillion small plants on them. No worries, each to their own. If you are going to create shelves and use multiple lights, ensure the medium that your plants on the shelves grow in, are well protected from the heat and glare from your lights. Not doing so seriously reduces root health, can often dry roots out, and is generally a ballache for the health and stamina of your ladies.
5/ Growing them big. You can create individual scrog screens vertically very easily. And the good thing is with vertical you can grow 6 foot tall plants if you have the height. Spread them out and watch as you get main colas growing out the middle of your plants
I am sure I'll add more in time. Any more Q's just let us know
Peace, DST
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
I like DST's list, except for the bit about blowing down from the top.
I'm blowing air UP from near the floor, where it's coolest. I blow it up because hot air rises. The entire silo is porous, so air moves out throughout its surface area. I do not get wind burn because I don't blow air at the plants, only up the silo. This works extremely well for me.
His advice about insulating root boxes is great stuff!
His number five is my own blueprint; my ScrOG screens stand over six feet tall by four feet wide. They stand on 27 gallon tuffboxes, one to a plant. My best individual is 2 1/2 # so far, and I know there is plenty more potential.
I'm blowing air UP from near the floor, where it's coolest. I blow it up because hot air rises. The entire silo is porous, so air moves out throughout its surface area. I do not get wind burn because I don't blow air at the plants, only up the silo. This works extremely well for me.
His advice about insulating root boxes is great stuff!
His number five is my own blueprint; my ScrOG screens stand over six feet tall by four feet wide. They stand on 27 gallon tuffboxes, one to a plant. My best individual is 2 1/2 # so far, and I know there is plenty more potential.
BobBitchen
Well-Known Member
Tnx for the info,
sorry for confusion (woulda been waay worse last night..lol)
I think the confusion is me trying to go vert in the middle of an established perpetual grow.
I think I will just wait until I finish up everything now that I have in flower,
clean everything up,
stack the 600 & 400 in the 4x4.
I have 5 & 5, Fireballs / Dog in veg, bout a month in
that will give me time to sex, clone & start fresh.
which will leave time for more reading up on diff set ups & techniques
Tnx for the help guy's
bOb
sorry for confusion (woulda been waay worse last night..lol)
I think the confusion is me trying to go vert in the middle of an established perpetual grow.
I think I will just wait until I finish up everything now that I have in flower,
clean everything up,
stack the 600 & 400 in the 4x4.
I have 5 & 5, Fireballs / Dog in veg, bout a month in
that will give me time to sex, clone & start fresh.
which will leave time for more reading up on diff set ups & techniques
Tnx for the help guy's
bOb
BobBitchen
Well-Known Member
Also my thoughts on the three tents, was eventually have vert in two,
one in veg being trained, one in flower, run 600 HPS in 4x4 flower tent,
400 MH in 3x3veg. Remaining 3x3, T5's, for Moms & clones.
As flower tent finishes, all I need to do is switch bulbs
in tents, & start veg again in vacant tent.
confusion level 1- 10 ?
one in veg being trained, one in flower, run 600 HPS in 4x4 flower tent,
400 MH in 3x3veg. Remaining 3x3, T5's, for Moms & clones.
As flower tent finishes, all I need to do is switch bulbs
in tents, & start veg again in vacant tent.
confusion level 1- 10 ?
DST
Well-Known Member
I am about at Level 8 confussled...I'll watch this space and sling my 2 cents in when required..
And Ttystikk, it relates more to the air movement over the plants leaves rather than the air cooling of the light. Normally in a grow the fans are above the plants blowing across the tops creating air ciculation and movement. Cold air is heavier than hot air hence why I use a 2nd inlet at the top so the cold air comes in, then gets blown downward by the fans pointing down. I am using cool tubes (or fool tubes as some cocky folks like to say) so I have a big old 8 inch fan blowing up through the lights to cool them.
...I'll watch this space and sling my 2 cents in when required..And Ttystikk, it relates more to the air movement over the plants leaves rather than the air cooling of the light. Normally in a grow the fans are above the plants blowing across the tops creating air ciculation and movement. Cold air is heavier than hot air hence why I use a 2nd inlet at the top so the cold air comes in, then gets blown downward by the fans pointing down. I am using cool tubes (or fool tubes as some cocky folks like to say
) so I have a big old 8 inch fan blowing up through the lights to cool them.
BobBitchen
Well-Known Member
Same as me....I am about at Level 8 confussled
And Ttystikk, it relates more to the air movement over the plants leaves rather than the air cooling of the light. Normally in a grow the fans are above the plants blowing across the tops creating air ciculation and movement. Cold air is heavier than hot air hence why I use a 2nd inlet at the top so the cold air comes in, then gets blown downward by the fans pointing down. I am using cool tubes (or fool tubes as some cocky folks like to say
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
Ok, you're running cool tubes and that makes a difference.I am about at Level 8 confussled
And Ttystikk, it relates more to the air movement over the plants leaves rather than the air cooling of the light. Normally in a grow the fans are above the plants blowing across the tops creating air ciculation and movement. Cold air is heavier than hot air hence why I use a 2nd inlet at the top so the cold air comes in, then gets blown downward by the fans pointing down. I am using cool tubes (or fool tubes as some cocky folks like to say
I'm running bare bulbs, either 2 x HPS thouies or 2 x 860W CDM. The one and only fan needed is laid on its back across the tops of the tuffboxes.
It's a sizeable fan, a Lasko 'Wind Machine 3300' it's like one size up from a square box window fan- which would also probably work.
It blows air up beside the bulbs, not at them, and also next to the plants. The breeze and gentle turbulence keeps everyone happy and dancing.
The cooling fan draws air from near the ceiling and blows it straight down through an 8" Icebox brand water to air heat exchanger and on down a length of duct to exit just about the system control bucket. This is where all the condensed moisture returns, back to the RDWC the plants drew it from.
Warmth travels up through the Super Silo, and straight back down the vertical cooling stack.
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
You never aim the fan directly at the plants, doesn't matter what fan it is, that will burn leaves.
I aim them straight up, past both bulbs and plants. It really does work quite well.
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
Some guys point them at the bulbs, and I think this is bad practice. One, it constantly buffets them, two it reduces the bulb's operating temperature, three is the risk of stuff being blown into them. I think the first affects longevity, the second affects spectrum and the third is an obvious hazard that must be accounted for in a bare bulb installation.
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
The 'Icebox' is simply an air to water heat exchange core inside a molded plastic shroud with round 8" duct flanges. Passing cold water through it while blowing warm growroom air across it will cool the air, and under certain conditions, it will also condense air, aka dehuey.
The 8" Iceboxes don't offer a lot of surface area, do they aren't effective for larger spaces.
A car radiator does exactly the same thing, put a box fan or squirrelcage blower behind it and you have the same thing, only bigger.