Comment on my CFL Flowers

bam.bam said:
pretty plant :) i noticed around week 5 is when the flowers will really get fat.

you may want to flush with tap water, not filtered water. tap water has an ec of ~.3, and it attaches to the salts and clears them out better than filtered water. also, it usually has ph buffers which are around 7. after the flush, you let the soil dry out, feed once the soil is dry, and the food has buffers of like 5, so youll be back around a ph of 6 then.

good luck, youll figure it out
Click to expand...

I never said I had a problem with PH.

The last thing this girl needs is a flush right now. She is not burnt, she is deficient.
 
Um actually they do. They were Phosphorus deficient and now they are showing a bit of nitrogen deficiency since I switched to bloom.

Also I suggest you let your plants flower for at least the recommended 9-10 weeks and stop sampling.
 
Definitely NOT root burn or rot. Her roots are very healthy and expansive.

The issue with Phosphorus didnt start until she started producing flowers, and the nitrogen issue didnt start until i switched to bloom.

Nute burn would just make the plant tips burn up to a crisp. P deficiency causes the red stems and brown spots on leaves. Nitrogen deficiency causes gradual yellowing from tips to stem with yellowing starting on the veins.
 
So wait, it is definitely PH? LMAO

Which is it? burn, rot, overnuting causing lock out or PH? Make up your mind.

Seriously... don't come on here and use your first couple posts to give wacky advice.
 
bam.bam said:
"overnuting causing lock out via PH" if youre letting the soil dry out between waterings
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Overnuting of Nitrogen can block uptake of other nutrients. Overnuting in general can cause the soil to be too salty and draw out water from the roots and causes the crispy leaves.

Overnuting does not cause lockout via ph. PH lockout is a completely seperate issue.
 
You can think of the pH as a measure of theoverall chemical charge of the medium. It affects whether nutrients dissolve to forms available to the plant orto forms the plant can't absorb, remaining locked in the soil medium.
Click to expand...

That is from "The Marijuana Growers Guide" by ed rosenthal.
 
bam.bam said:
"overnuting causing lock out via PH" is my vote. that is if youre letting the soil dry out between waterings, if not its most likely root rot.
Click to expand...

Nute tox can lock out 1 or more of those paired with it, but odds are that the nutes didn't force a drastic pH drop unless you're pouring directly from the jug with some really potent shit that's not pH balanced... nutes causing a pH lockout is ruled out on the grounds that she's quite observant, and checks her plants many times a day. Why would you suspect root rot, given what's been said? I'm trying to work through your logic here.
 
Have you checked your pH meter to be sure it isn't telling you lies. My Milwaukee el-cheapo was telling me that my pH was 5.8, but the the Blue Lab told me it was 6.5. So I cleaned the Mil and what you know, pH was too high. I don't think that's what you got goin' on, but something to keep in mind. Good luck with the sugar stuff, getting stabbed is no fun. After I had a big surgery a couple years ago my appetite went away and nowdays I could go days, maybe weeks without eating because I am just not even a little hungry, but there is someone who entices me with food every day and keeps me fed. I discovered that the desire for food is entirely in the brain, so if you control the thinking you control the appetite and everything that follows. Looking forward to seeing what you discover about the plants, happy growing! :peace::weed:bongsmilie:lol::bigjoint::leaf:
 
bam.bam said:
Ph pens are unreliable. Ph strips work well for me if i ever ed em
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Disagreed, the pH pens work lovely if you maintain them as you're supposed to and calibrate every so often... mine stays within .01 and has only needed to be adjusted once over a good while, checking against both 7.0 and 4.0
 
Day 60 - 12/12 Day 36

IMG_0858.jpg

Watered today and wished that I had waited till tomorrow. She didn't drink it all. I will wait until Tuesday to water again.

Trimmed the tips off of affected leaves so I can notice new problems better.

Went out to home depot and bought two more Y splitters. She now has twelve 26w bulbs on her for a total of 312 watts.

I do not have a PH pen. I use the drops. It is always in the 6.0-6.5 range. Next grow I prob will get a PH pen so I can get it at 6.3 exactly.
 
Flaming Pie said:
Day 60 - 12/12 Day 36

View attachment 2583047

Watered today and wished that I had waited till tomorrow. She didn't drink it all. I will wait until Tuesday to water again.

Trimmed the tips off of affected leaves so I can notice new problems better.

Went out to home depot and bought two more Y splitters. She now has twelve 26w bulbs on her for a total of 312 watts.

I do not have a PH pen. I use the drops. It is always in the 6.0-6.5 range. Next grow I prob will get a PH pen so I can get it at 6.3 exactly.
Click to expand...

I've run tests with a few.. and there's a solid Milwaukee you can get any hydro shop for about 30 bucks that's durable, and accurate to within .1 with a 3 year warranty on it - as one of a few I'd recommend depending on how much you wish to spend.
 
Figong said:
I've run tests with a few.. and there's a solid Milwaukee you can get any hydro shop for about 30 bucks that's durable, and accurate to within .1 with a 3 year warranty on it - as one of a few I'd recommend depending on how much you wish to spend.
Click to expand...

Yeah about 30 bucks would be good.

I PH'd my water the same for my first grow and never had an issue with Phosphurus being locked out. I think it is just a deficiency. The first grow I used Epsoma mix in garden tone.

Maybe one day I will do a experiment between Garden Tone and Maxibloom and see which produces better/easier results.
 
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