Concerning - potassium deficiency?

Toka416 said:

Yes is what i think from looking at your pictures. Feel like you already came to that conclusion just wanted to back up your ideas of whats going on. The potassium def shows in the dead spots not focused on the tips of the leaves. As long as it doesnt get worse its fixed. The tip burn on lower growth indicates over feed of the npk, secondary nute overfeed shows on the upper leaves. Good luck!

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Heard that. Yea, I’m almost thinking of just rerunning this exact same strain again next time, with the exact same set up. I’ll have a large surplus of one strain to share with friends and fam but I feel like it could help me learn from my mistakes this grow if I just repeat the same grow as closely as possible while improving where I fell short this run.

Do many hobbyist take this approach early on and stick to a couple, maybe three strains for a few years to provide more constants throughout the grow cycles?

Toka416 said:

Yes is what i think from looking at your pictures. Feel like you already came to that conclusion just wanted to back up your ideas of whats going on. The potassium def shows in the dead spots not focused on the tips of the leaves. As long as it doesnt get worse its fixed. The tip burn on lower growth indicates over feed of the npk, secondary nute overfeed shows on the upper leaves. Good luck!

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Also, I’m pretty resolved to taking a 7-14day chill period where I’m just watering only once they are dry. The potassium issues seem like they may be slowing down a bit; but if I’m 2 weeks from now and the potassium deficiency is still a concern…. Would you recommend a specific way to approach that?

Growin4fun77 said:

Also! THOUGHT OF SOMETHING I MAY HAVE NOT STRESSED WHEN I SHARED THE EARLIER INFO. I have used a fair amount up PH down to keep the PH a bit under 7. Never a ton per watering but have used it regularly. Could this be the missing variable? They would have been small; but sounds like they were unnecessary, swings in PH. Idk ‍

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This caught my eye. I'd like to know more about your water. I believe you said you don't drink it? Did you use it when you were using synthetics?

I personally think you should do a slurry test, especially for media pH.

Are you on a well or municipal system?

If municipal, see if you can find a water report online offered by your provider, and post it.

waktoo said:

This caught my eye. I'd like to know more about your water. I believe you said you don't drink it? Did you use it when you were using synthetics?

I personally think you should do a slurry test, especially for media pH.

Are you on a well or municipal system?

If municipal, see if you can find a water report online offered by your provider, and post it.

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I still used distilled when I ran synthetics (mostly) a few waterings were with city water just due to lack of ability to find distilled water locally.

Growin4fun77 said:

Also, I’m pretty resolved to taking a 7-14day chill period where I’m just watering only once they are dry. The potassium issues seem like they may be slowing down a bit; but if I’m 2 weeks from now and the potassium deficiency is still a concern…. Would you recommend a specific way to approach that?

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Your the boss as a hobby grower. Before i tell you what to do i looked closer and have to apologize. I only see overfeed. Thought i saw cal def but looked again and think its just an overfeed. My bad.

Growin4fun77 said:

I still used distilled when I ran synthetics (mostly) a few waterings were with city water just due to lack of ability to find distilled water locally.

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I'm no expert and not quite sure how to fully read that. But I have a feeling your water might be just fine for plants. Do you have a ppm meter you could use to check total ppm? I'd do some more research maybe. It just seems like a lot more work and money to be using distilled. It's at least got a little free organic carbon, . Check the tap pH too.

PadawanWarrior said:

I'm no expert and not quite sure how to fully read that. But I have a feeling your water might be just fine for plants. Do you have a ppm meter you could use to check total ppm? I'd do some more research maybe. It just seems like a lot more work and money to be using distilled. It's at least got a little free organic carbon, . Check the tap pH too.

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Faucet usually runs 7.2-7.3 ph when I used it in the past. Is that ok? Or do I correct it?

waktoo said:

This caught my eye. I'd like to know more about your water. I believe you said you don't drink it? Did you use it when you were using synthetics?

I personally think you should do a slurry test, especially for media pH.

Are you on a well or municipal system?

If municipal, see if you can find a water report online offered by your provider, and post it.

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I did slurry with a small scoop of soil from 3 parts of the plant a few inches down, and all is fine with ph. One is 6.8, the other is 6.9. Were you saying check it just to ensure lockouts weren’t happening due to bad PH?

PadawanWarrior said:

I'm no expert and not quite sure how to fully read that. But I have a feeling your water might be just fine for plants. Do you have a ppm meter you could use to check total ppm? I'd do some more research maybe. It just seems like a lot more work and money to be using distilled. It's at least got a little free organic carbon, . Check the tap pH too.

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I can’t find my ppm stick all of a sudden. Any chance it would be super stressful on the plants to switch to faucet water?
that’s the only anxiety I have about it. If it freaked them out, and they are already stressed it just adds another layer to the onion of issues

Growin4fun77 said:

Faucet usually runs 7.2-7.3 ph when I used it in the past. Is that ok? Or do I correct it?

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The pH is fine. I water with my well water that's like 7.8.

Growin4fun77 said:

I can’t find my ppm stick all of a sudden. Any chance it would be super stressful on the plants to switch to faucet water?
that’s the only anxiety I have about it. If it freaked them out, and they are already stressed it just adds another layer to the onion of issues

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I'm not sure what's actually in your water. You should do some more research. It would just suck if you're buying water if you don't have to.

Growin4fun77 said:

I did slurry with a small scoop of soil from 3 parts of the plant a few inches down, and all is fine with ph. One is 6.8, the other is 6.9. Were you saying check it just to ensure lockouts weren’t happening due to bad PH?

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I'm sorry. I don't think I'm going to be able to help you.

Best of luck.

waktoo said:

I'm sorry. I don't think I'm going to be able to help you.

Best of luck.

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You did help actually.
Now I have peace of mind the soil ph reader I use; runoffs and slurry have all given tight readings between 6.7-6.9….. so, PH is eliminated as a contributing factor.

Appreciate the help and well wishes. Take care

I don’t know if this changes anyone’s interpretation of things or if more info even helps at this point; but one plant has taken a quicker turn for the worst.

The left plants upper fan leaves are now suffering and that’s spreading continuously; but there is also now a lot of leaves turning lime green and yellowing til they fall off. Also, some of these have brown spots.
The right one seems like she may push through fine or that she may be at least a bit more resilient.

Threw some pics below. Showing these new developments and side by side comparison of each as the issue progresses. Still sticking to water only unless anyone makes a strong case for another course of action.

HappyValentines day.

Growin4fun77 said:

I don’t know if this changes anyone’s interpretation of things or if more info even helps at this point; but one plant has taken a quicker turn for the worst.

The left plants upper fan leaves are now suffering and that’s spreading continuously; but there is also now a lot of leaves turning lime green and yellowing til they fall off. Also, some of these have brown spots.
The right one seems like she may push through fine or that she may be at least a bit more resilient.

Threw some pics below. Showing these new developments and side by side comparison of each as the issue progresses. Still sticking to water only unless anyone makes a strong case for another course of action.

HappyValentines day.

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Looks sick, like a fungal thing maybe. How are the roots? Are they drowning?

PadawanWarrior said:

Looks sick, like a fungal thing maybe. How are the roots? Are they drowning?

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They got wetter than I wanted them to last week; but they dried out completely and were starting to droop just a tad prior to receiving a little over a half a gallon each last night.

The pots sit on top of a t-shape made out of 1”+ PVC. With a ran running at floor level all the time.

Growin4fun77 said:

Word. Come to think things did tank faster after adding the seabird guano. Maybe just coincidence of the timing; but maybe not…. definitely a fair warning of caution when using guanos in the future.

Can anyone recommend a good resource for start to finish organic growing processes? From preparing/building soil to harvest.
I feel my downfall could be accumulating information from a broad range of sources and trying what I THINK will work well.
perhaps my next grow I could take a stripped down approach with more intentional structure around my process. Then as I’m building knowledge over time I can work in newer concepts.

This is currently feeling like that time I was somehow allowed to enroll in a college course without having the proper prerequisite courses. I made it through the semester but god damn it was more stressful than it had to be. I didn’t know the fundamentals well enough to quickly grasp the concepts. I need to do more work there before I finish this run or even think to start my next run.

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I would recommend checking out the BuildaSoil website and look at the specific products that they use in the range. You can check them out on Youtube as well where they take you, step by step, through their grow. They have done like 4 seasons so there is 4 cycles worth of video content for you to go through. The videos are labelled really well so you can go look for specific sections you are hoping to improve on, cloning, tea's, top dressing etc.


I took the PDF document they provide on this page and then looked at input individually and just got a good idea as to what they are adding to the soil at what time. That really was the foundation for my learning and from there I started doing the research. You need a starting point and this is a good one, in my opinion. Document what you do and then adjust based on your own research.

There are some good talks on YouTube that you can go and check out. Some names to keep in mind Jeff Lowenfels (his books are great), Brandon Rust (check out his talks in the future cannabis project) and anything by Mr. Grow It.

I would recommend vermicomposting and learning about Korean Natural Farming (https://www.youtube.com/@ChrisTrumpSoilSteward). The reason being that at the base of what you are trying to do is get the plant to create carbon so that it can grow. When you are able to create additives that bring can bring that in and add real value to the plants ability to do that, then you will see changes in your results. The more control you can have over your inputs, the easier it becomes to improve your process. This is getting a bit more to creating your own recipes but its definitely something to keep in mind.

Growin4fun77 said:

I don’t know if this changes anyone’s interpretation of things or if more info even helps at this point; but one plant has taken a quicker turn for the worst.

The left plants upper fan leaves are now suffering and that’s spreading continuously; but there is also now a lot of leaves turning lime green and yellowing til they fall off. Also, some of these have brown spots.
The right one seems like she may push through fine or that she may be at least a bit more resilient.

Threw some pics below. Showing these new developments and side by side comparison of each as the issue progresses. Still sticking to water only unless anyone makes a strong case for another course of action.

HappyValentines day.

Click to expand...

So I would not be too worried here. The damage here could be related to your original issues that you had. I have noticed that once there is an issue with these systems the damage that the plants experiences will be over a period of time. Remember that when you used synthetic nutrients in a more biologically inactive medium, the ability to remedy an issue was a lot more immediate (flushing for example) and therefore you could rectify deficiencies as soon as you could identify the problem.

Its not the case with organic systems. Remember its the biology in the soil that now needs to adjust to a point that enables the plant to draw the relevant nutrients from it again. This takes time. During this process, the plant will rely on the nutrients it has stored in its leaves and draw from that in order to keep itself going. Once the biology in the soil is right again, the plant stops this process. So what you are seeing is perfectly normal for you to see what might seem as a progression of an issue but is actually just the side effects of the entire system (plant & soil) trying to get to a healthy space again.

If would just continue taking care of the soil and consider adding in some good biology to help the plant regulate the soil again. I would add Trichoderma Hazianum and Bacillus Subtillus (Bokashi Earthworks). Any befecial additive that has this in it also works. That is about as much as you could do at the moment.

Ensure you are doing about 5% of total soil volume in watering roughly every 2nd day and you are good to go.

Reap911 said:

So I would not be too worried here. The damage here could be related to your original issues that you had. I have noticed that once there is an issue with these systems the damage that the plants experiences will be over a period of time. Remember that when you used synthetic nutrients in a more biologically inactive medium, the ability to remedy an issue was a lot more immediate (flushing for example) and therefore you could rectify deficiencies as soon as you could identify the problem.

Its not the case with organic systems. Remember its the biology in the soil that now needs to adjust to a point that enables the plant to draw the relevant nutrients from it again. This takes time. During this process, the plant will rely on the nutrients it has stored in its leaves and draw from that in order to keep itself going. Once the biology in the soil is right again, the plant stops this process. So what you are seeing is perfectly normal for you to see what might seem as a progression of an issue but is actually just the side effects of the entire system (plant & soil) trying to get to a healthy space again.

If would just continue taking care of the soil and consider adding in some good biology to help the plant regulate the soil again. I would add Trichoderma Hazianum and Bacillus Subtillus (Bokashi Earthworks). Any befecial additive that has this in it also works. That is about as much as you could do at the moment.

Ensure you are doing about 5% of total soil volume in watering roughly every 2nd day and you are good to go.

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Thanks. I figured This would be the feedback. Just wanted to provide any additional info I could in case it may help.
I found the Trichoderma pretty easily. Not sure I’m finding the bomashi product (I’m finding one that is a base for composting; but unsure if that’s what you’re referring to because there are a lot of liquid ones too.

can you post a pic of what you’re referring to?

Growin4fun77 said:

Thanks. I figured This would be the feedback. Just wanted to provide any additional info I could in case it may help.
I found the Trichoderma pretty easily. Not sure I’m finding the bomashi product (I’m finding one that is a base for composting; but unsure if that’s what you’re referring to because there are a lot of liquid ones too.

can you post a pic of what you’re referring to?

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Check out the additives this guy has to sell. The microbe plus is what I am referring to. Biological additive that improves soil activity. He sells Bacillus Subtillus.

BuildASoil is also a good place to browse around.

The products they have to offer is specific to loving soil cultivation.

The carbon based fertilisers (from Bokashi Earthworks) is also something to consider. Its a bit to explain but basically it is just a way of adding food for tge plant that it doesnt require any energy to make.

Here is him explaining it.

If I could get my hands on it, I would be using it.

Reap911 said:

Bokashi Earthworks-Leading regenerative agriculture brand

Unlock the secrets to a vibrant garden! Expert tips, organic solutions, and sustainable practices for a thriving oasis. Start your journey today."

www.bokashiearthworks.com

Check out the additives this guy has to sell. The microbe plus is what I am referring to. Biological additive that improves soil activity. He sells Bacillus Subtillus.

BuildASoil is also a good place to browse around.

The products they have to offer is specific to loving soil cultivation.

The carbon based fertilisers (from Bokashi Earthworks) is also something to consider. Its a bit to explain but basically it is just a way of adding food for tge plant that it doesnt require any energy to make.

Here is him explaining it.

If I could get my hands on it, I would be using it.

Click to expand...

Do you think it’d be helpful to get underneath there and trim off any small buds/potential larf?
I feel if the plants are gonna struggle may as well focus on removing useless buds that are canibalizing the fan leaves currently.