Concerning - potassium deficiency?

Growin4fun77 said:
Do you think it’d be helpful to get underneath there and trim off any small buds/potential larf?
I feel if the plants are gonna struggle may as well focus on removing useless buds that are canibalizing the fan leaves currently.
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Are you still seeing a decline in your leaf health?

I would remove them as a general practise but if your plant is already struggling I would not add stress into the mix. That is my opinion but not sure how other people may think.

Other than adding the beneficials, I would just let the plants do their thing.
 
Reap911 said:
Are you still seeing a decline in your leaf health?

I would remove them as a general practise but if your plant is already struggling I would not add stress into the mix. That is my opinion but not sure how other people may think.

Other than adding the beneficials, I would just let the plants do their thing.
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Plants leaves still declining consistently on one plant and very slowly on the other. Will leave them on this grow to limit stress. Maybe just use for edibles or something.
 

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Growin4fun77 said:
Plants leaves still declining consistently on one plant and very slowly on the other. Will leave them on this grow to limit stress. Maybe just use for edibles or something.
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The leaves look a bit ugly, but they are still doing their job. Some will need to be removed when they become useless to the plant. You will be fine if you let them work through it. It can still end up being a good smoke but in the meantime, they will continue to likely get worse. This is what I said earlier about the top dressing being removed if possible. If it could not be removed, it would probably cause issues for at least 10 - 14 days. We've all seen and had worse.
Good Luck!
 
Kushash said:
The leaves look a bit ugly, but they are still doing their job. Some will need to be removed when they become useless to the plant. You will be fine if you let them work through it. It can still end up being a good smoke but in the meantime, they will continue to likely get worse. This is what I said earlier about the top dressing being removed if possible. If it could not be removed, it would probably cause issues for at least 10 - 14 days. We've all seen and had worse.
Good Luck!
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Yea it was just too scrapped in to not really disturb the plant even more by removing, I’m kinda letting the leaves get every ounce of life out and then ever 2 days I give sickly ones a VERY light tug and if they come off they were done anyway. For the larger fan leaves drying and curling, I’ll remove those once the curling part closes in on the buds or when they get so bad mold becomes a concern.

Is there an SOP for removing browning fan leaves where the necrosis is creeping up to the bud sites. Is it best to just remove that bud altogether as to prevent that dead leaf material causing bud rot?? We aren’t there yet; but just in case it presents itself I’m asking proactively lmfao .

thanks for the continued Advice and reassurance.
 
Growin4fun77 said:
Yea it was just too scrapped in to not really disturb the plant even more by removing, I’m kinda letting the leaves get every ounce of life out and then ever 2 days I give sickly ones a VERY light tug and if they come off they were done anyway. For the larger fan leaves drying and curling, I’ll remove those once the curling part closes in on the buds or when they get so bad mold becomes a concern.

Is there an SOP for removing browning fan leaves where the necrosis is creeping up to the bud sites. Is it best to just remove that bud altogether as to prevent that dead leaf material causing bud rot?? We aren’t there yet; but just in case it presents itself I’m asking proactively lmfao .

thanks for the continued Advice and reassurance.
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Chances are the tiny leaves in the buds will be fine. This type of issue should not in itself lead to any mold issues IMO. I think there is no set rule on when to pull a fan leaf. I have snipped off individual blades from leaves that were dried out leaving other blades that are green occasionally. I'd guess the average consensus is to remove a leaf after it passed the 50% dead stage.
 
Kushash said:
The leaves look a bit ugly, but they are still doing their job. Some will need to be removed when they become useless to the plant. You will be fine if you let them work through it. It can still end up being a good smoke but in the meantime, they will continue to likely get worse. This is what I said earlier about the top dressing being removed if possible. If it could not be removed, it would probably cause issues for at least 10 - 14 days. We've all seen and had worse.
Good Luck!
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Am I totally psycho for thinking there’s something besides water only and some trichoderma that may help these? The yellowing is getting progressively worse, really rapidly the past week ish.

Growing concerned the one on the left may not make it to harvest. Feeling defeated.

The last pic here is a pic of recent development of the overall issue.

Definitely don’t wanna risk overdoing it, just don’t wanna have to chop one or either of them if it’s avoidable.
 

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Growin4fun77 said:
Am I totally psycho for thinking there’s something besides water only and some trichoderma that may help these? The yellowing is getting progressively worse, really rapidly the past week ish.

Growing concerned the one on the left may not make it to harvest. Feeling defeated.

The last pic here is a pic of recent development of the overall issue.

Definitely don’t wanna risk overdoing it, just don’t wanna have to chop one or either of them if it’s avoidable.
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Budzbuddha said:
OCD not necessary- lol.

Water only when needed - let it come around on its own. You may still get some leaf issues as it tried to find its way through the heavy nutes.
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I think it's just going through the overfeeding. See what Budz thinks.
 
swedsteven said:
:fire:to much food...
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thanx, ive been wondering if my last plants didn't use up all the fish,blood n bone and super rock phosphate. the rock phosphate is new to me last year, so have no idea just how many times i can use it (the soil that is) b4 replaceing it. i reuse old soil, but as i use organic amendments, i just assumed it would be ok to just add more, rock phosphate/fish blood n bone take 3 monthes to break down and get used up compleately. so my clones into pots of organic soil n amendments are in flower for 2-3 monthes, so maybe theres still plenty in it still.
will try top dressing or making tea with it after grinding it up in coffee/spice grinder and adding to worm casts/chicken shit (composted) ,comfrey juice/molassas/seaweed solution/2 cups ofcompost. thanx
 
Budzbuddha said:
Wah ? … I ain’t say shit
I said let it come around.
But the newest pic is increasing K deficient . It wants more of that . Right side is showing progressive issues too .
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I was just giving you a hard time cause you’d suggested a while back I was being too hands on/OCD….
Actually my gut told me the K def was showing through more than anything so I decided to give a tiny immediate release potassium feed at 20%.
I got Down to Earth Potassium Sulfate (0-0-50) when they first tanked and just never used it. Used it two waterings ago and both have nearly stopped dropping leaves since.

Would you recommend sticking with that stuff (the DTE Pot. Sulf.) at a low dosage or finding something that rounds it out with some P too?
 
Know that the leaves severely affected will not magically correct and go green. Even after a PK adjustment.

You are merely trying to slow / stop progression. They are looking for a heavier bloom feeding. Some strains are feed hogs. It happens.
 
Budzbuddha said:
Know that the leaves severely affected will not magically correct and go green. Even after a PK adjustment.

You are merely trying to slow / stop progression. They are looking for a heavier bloom feeding. Some strains are feed hogs. It happens.
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I understand on the adjustment not rectifying all the leaf damage. I’m just trying to stave off future damage to hopefully get another month-ish outta these ladies (or more if it’s needed).

I hate to take the lazy route; but am I wrong to consider just going with lower dosages of tiger bloom the rest of the run….Wouldn’t the kelp and Langbite take several weeks to even make an adjustment? Or are there immediate uptake versions I could use?
 
If you really want to boost your K then you can look at Potassium Sulphate.

What will help is if you feed the soil some Humic and Fulvic acid. I cant give you the exact science behind its impact but I have heard numerous growers talk about its benefits. I know it impacts the soil biology in a regulatory way, adjust soil ph and in general, is really good for your soil microbes. You can add Yucca into the mix as well, that stuff seems to be a golden nugget that I never knew of.

You need to accept that you have thrown out the biology of the soil. You are going to make things worse by throwing more stuff into the mix. If the first cause of the plants damage is overdoing it, then doing more of that is not going to help.

Take it from an organic grower, you cannot control things the way that you did with synthetics. The more research you do, the quicker you are going to realize this. Working with ecosystems do not allow you to cut corners. Meddling with these systems because you dont like the way the plant looks is a one way ticket to failure.

Trust me. Let them be, focus on ways to improve the soil biology, that is your only way to balance out the soil. Not adding more NPK into the soil. If you want to add anything for deficiencies, foliar spray.
 
Reap911 said:
If you really want to boost your K then you can look at Potassium Sulphate.

What will help is if you feed the soil some Humic and Fulvic acid. I cant give you the exact science behind its impact but I have heard numerous growers talk about its benefits. I know it impacts the soil biology in a regulatory way, adjust soil ph and in general, is really good for your soil microbes. You can add Yucca into the mix as well, that stuff seems to be a golden nugget that I never knew of.

You need to accept that you have thrown out the biology of the soil. You are going to make things worse by throwing more stuff into the mix. If the first cause of the plants damage is overdoing it, then doing more of that is not going to help.

Take it from an organic grower, you cannot control things the way that you did with synthetics. The more research you do, the quicker you are going to realize this. Working with ecosystems do not allow you to cut corners. Meddling with these systems because you dont like the way the plant looks is a one way ticket to failure.

Trust me. Let them be, focus on ways to improve the soil biology, that is your only way to balance out the soil. Not adding more NPK into the soil. If you want to add anything for deficiencies, foliar spray.
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Yea man. I’ve done water, a little something to keep the roots happy and a very light potassium sulfate feeding or two.

They are just about done. The buds look good and are pretty solid/very trichy/pungent ad. But the leaves are just ugly.Hoping for a better run next time.

I think I’m going to try and do an approach that uses as few inputs as possible. Just find a simple soil recipe, a strong/resilient genetic and attempt to only intervene minimally with as few ingredients/amendments as possible….
still some research to do on this; but I have a good 45 days before I can pop more seeds due to vacation coming up. I truly think taking a stripped down approach is what is needed to tame my tendency to over think/complicate.

I dunno, to use a bowling metaphor…. I think I came into my second grow cocky, trying to roll 12 strikes in a row, all crazy curve balls. And really I probably just needed another grow or two with the bumpers up to keep me outta the gutter.

Thanks for all your help along the way. It’s more help than you know. All the concepts I’ve read about on your recommendation have helped me understand the symbiotic nature of organic gardening. The freaking build a soil seasons are bad ass too. Insanely helpful. Silva’s so smart, and freakin humble to boot.
 
Good read this thread, much come and going.

Just a few points in general.
Good thinking going with the same of everything for the next grow.
Regardless of the strain make sure you switch to flower at a standart age so that you ll know how long things hold up to. The faster you switch the less your soil will be depleted, 25 days per se.

I dont recall the soil brand you re using but i think you said you use top compost so anyway if you pack your mix initially with the extra N and Phos and let it sit for a few waterings before you use it... then do 25-30 days veg, switch to 12-12 then do a topdress at week 3-4 flower with 15g Phos guano per week and some dedicated K stuff (i use palm ash full dosage at once) you ll be right on the spot.

As for the watering your plants look like their getting properly watered which is one less huge trouble but why water with distilled? It definitely complicates things for no reason. Your ph is perfect you only need to check ppms just in case. Even up to 350ppm you ll be fine.
If i had to pay for water then id go for bottled spring water. Waaay better option. No micros missing. My water is 8.4 and i was always trying to bring it down to 7.0 ... but guess what... there was no need! 8.4 is all they get. The soil does its thing.

Greetings
 
Medskunk said:
Good read this thread, much come and going.

Just a few points in general.
Good thinking going with the same of everything for the next grow.
Regardless of the strain make sure you switch to flower at a standart age so that you ll know how long things hold up to. The faster you switch the less your soil will be depleted, 25 days per se.

I dont recall the soil brand you re using but i think you said you use top compost so anyway if you pack your mix initially with the extra N and Phos and let it sit for a few waterings before you use it... then do 25-30 days veg, switch to 12-12 then do a topdress at week 3-4 flower with 15g Phos guano per week and some dedicated K stuff (i use palm ash full dosage at once) you ll be right on the spot.

As for the watering your plants look like their getting properly watered which is one less huge trouble but why water with distilled? It definitely complicates things for no reason. Your ph is perfect you only need to check ppms just in case. Even up to 350ppm you ll be fine.
If i had to pay for water then id go for bottled spring water. Waaay better option. No micros missing. My water is 8.4 and i was always trying to bring it down to 7.0 ... but guess what... there was no need! 8.4 is all they get. The soil does its thing.

Greetings
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Thanks for the feedback brother. I’m switching to all tap water in my next run. Running one quick auto with the tap water now to make sure there aren’t any major issues.

this is a cool community. So much knowledge to be passed around!
 
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