Could I run a heater in my tent for a while and sterilize powdery mildew that way?

Farmer's Hat

Well-Known Member
Yeah I’ve heard that. I want to scrap my plants though and sterilize an empty tent to make sure the spores are dead.
Dont give up on them yet. Try the baking soda water. Spray them down every 2 days. The pm should be gone after you spray them down 4-5 times. In addition to running a dehumidifier in your basement, Im willing to bet that will get you to the finish line.

Also, you can soak the flowers in isopropyl alcohol when you harvest. You could turn all the flower into hash afterwards.
 

tstick

Well-Known Member
The downside of UV light is that it degrades THC rather quickly, at about 0.5% an hour!
But how long does the UVC bulb need to be on in order to kill spores? Like, if you got one of those UVC sterilizing wands that you run over packages, etc....That kind of light wouldn't need to be on for long enough to cause degradation, would it? Or just have it come on for less than a minute every so often.....?
 

thumper60

Well-Known Member
Powdery mildew showed up on this run about 4 weeks into flower and I can’t get rid of it. I am about to toss the plants and restart so I am wondering if I could just crank a few space heaters in my tent for a few days to kill any spores.

I’d like to avoid spraying everything down with chemicals and such and cleaning fan blades and grills and cords etc. as far as I know, powdery mildew is my only contaminant and I heard heat will kill it.
It might work in the tent But where did the spores come from thats the real problem? If the pm is not to bad we dont have pics so we dont know It can be held off with some simple cheap sprays.
 

Phytoplankton

Well-Known Member
But how long does the UVC bulb need to be on in order to kill spores? Like, if you got one of those UVC sterilizing wands that you run over packages, etc....That kind of light wouldn't need to be on for long enough to cause degradation, would it? Or just have it come on for less than a minute every so often.....?
According to what I read, 1-3 hours, dependent on distance and intensity.
 

420AD

Well-Known Member
I'll 4th or 5th the ozone generator. Easiest, and best way of doing it. I got mine a couple years back and super happy I did. Bonus, when you go out to work you can run it in your kitchen or living room to freshen up the house. Just make sure it has a good few hours to degrade back to oxygen, and give it a quick windows open for a few mins so it's not harmful to inhale.
Doctor zymes, bleach, peroxide, hypochlorous acid, are all good cleaners and also will kill spores etc. good for a secondary 'make sure' on top of the ozone
Make sure to clean all little cracks and crevices, especially anything made with cloth material.....
I saw dyson is using a robot with UV-C leds to sterilize plants in veg to prevent it.

For me the only thing that really worked, once I got infected was cleaning everything including the air filter and then let the ozone generator do the rest.
 

420AD

Well-Known Member
The only thing that helped a little when I tried to save my pm plants was canna cure.
But I had to spray it every other day or so and I'm not sure if soapwater wouldn't have done the same.
 

Nizza

Well-Known Member
I live on the east coast and we have bad humidity in certain times of the year. Temps are OK but humidity is crazy..

I always ran a dehu and plenty of airflow and still had issues. Once I added a UVA light during flowering I didn't have it again. When you go outside and really look alot of trees have it. My theory is it just carries it's way in as a spore and is waiting to thrive and even if imperfect conditions it will still make it's way. The UVA seemed to have helped.

Also added an intake pre filter.. perhaps this allows the plant to breathe easier and have an even better immune system. It always seemed like the plants to get PM were the unhappy ones. what a waste of bud but great learning experience for me. Make sure your monitoring humidity 24/7. It could also be a night time humidity spike causing this.

I'd clean everything with simple green, rinse, then h202. Then heat it up like you're saying but if there are already affected plants sadly it's systemic and when the buds get fat you will most likely see it again. Look into how spraying with milk works if you're desperate it will help harbor beneficial bacteria to help get rid of the systemic part, but you'll still have to deal with why it happened in the first place

Uvc is dangerous it will degrade your equipments plastics be careful!

I've heard airros works well i think it may be a hydrogen trioxide generator or something. It generates a special ozone that will really make sure no germs harm your plant. Expensive and hard to afford for most hobby growers
 

Greengrouch

Well-Known Member
Using an intake fan with a filter box instead of the built in mesh vents on your tent is a game changing preventive measure. Weather you save them or not this and a bleach wipe down of your tent and equipment is something you should do when you reset for your next grow.
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
I live on the east coast and we have bad humidity in certain times of the year. Temps are OK but humidity is crazy..

I always ran a dehu and plenty of airflow and still had issues. Once I added a UVA light during flowering I didn't have it again. When you go outside and really look alot of trees have it. My theory is it just carries it's way in as a spore and is waiting to thrive and even if imperfect conditions it will still make it's way. The UVA seemed to have helped.

Also added an intake pre filter.. perhaps this allows the plant to breathe easier and have an even better immune system. It always seemed like the plants to get PM were the unhappy ones. what a waste of bud but great learning experience for me. Make sure your monitoring humidity 24/7. It could also be a night time humidity spike causing this.

I'd clean everything with simple green, rinse, then h202. Then heat it up like you're saying but if there are already affected plants sadly it's systemic and when the buds get fat you will most likely see it again. Look into how spraying with milk works if you're desperate it will help harbor beneficial bacteria to help get rid of the systemic part, but you'll still have to deal with why it happened in the first place

Uvc is dangerous it will degrade your equipments plastics be careful!

I've heard airros works well i think it may be a hydrogen trioxide generator or something. It generates a special ozone that will really make sure no germs harm your plant. Expensive and hard to afford for most hobby growers
UVA and UVB really help trichome production, too.
 

waytoofaded

Well-Known Member
I live on the east coast and we have bad humidity in certain times of the year. Temps are OK but humidity is crazy..

I always ran a dehu and plenty of airflow and still had issues. Once I added a UVA light during flowering I didn't have it again. When you go outside and really look alot of trees have it. My theory is it just carries it's way in as a spore and is waiting to thrive and even if imperfect conditions it will still make it's way. The UVA seemed to have helped.

Also added an intake pre filter.. perhaps this allows the plant to breathe easier and have an even better immune system. It always seemed like the plants to get PM were the unhappy ones. what a waste of bud but great learning experience for me. Make sure your monitoring humidity 24/7. It could also be a night time humidity spike causing this.

I'd clean everything with simple green, rinse, then h202. Then heat it up like you're saying but if there are already affected plants sadly it's systemic and when the buds get fat you will most likely see it again. Look into how spraying with milk works if you're desperate it will help harbor beneficial bacteria to help get rid of the systemic part, but you'll still have to deal with why it happened in the first place

Uvc is dangerous it will degrade your equipments plastics be careful!

I've heard airros works well i think it may be a hydrogen trioxide generator or something. It generates a special ozone that will really make sure no germs harm your plant. Expensive and hard to afford for most hobby growers
If UV light was effective against PM, we wouldn't have it in the wild. I'm not discounting your experience, but the science simply doesn't back it up.
 

Farmer's Hat

Well-Known Member
If UV light was effective against PM, we wouldn't have it in the wild. I'm not discounting your experience, but the science simply doesn't back it up.
Thats a valid point.

I would also like to point out, just in case it hasn't been mentioned yet, genetics is super important. Im not exaggerating when I say that I have grown plants outdoors next to pm infested squash plants, and my cannabis plants were perfectly fine! No pm!
I have also grown some pathetic weak cannabis plants, and they got ravaged by pm under really mild humid weather.

Most modern indoor strains are bred for looks and potency, not for pest and mold resistance. Its something to keep in mind.
 

Nizza

Well-Known Member
If UV light was effective against PM, we wouldn't have it in the wild. I'm not discounting your experience, but the science simply doesn't back it up.
Yeah I agree with what your saying good point. I think the uva , combined with all the other things I did may have helped with the plants internal resistance to PM. My point is there are very many factors, focus on having healthy vigorous plants with good airflow, temp, humidity. Do as much as possible to keep them nourished and you will end up with less issues.

Stable strong genetics are most definitely a factor actually strains are designed to be able to handle mold and mildew for our region and I have had luck with very few outdoors getting to when they are fully developed. Being able to control everything indoors gives me success with much more variety of strains
 

waytoofaded

Well-Known Member
Yeah I agree with what your saying good point. I think the uva , combined with all the other things I did may have helped with the plants internal resistance to PM. My point is there are very many factors, focus on having healthy vigorous plants with good airflow, temp, humidity. Do as much as possible to keep them nourished and you will end up with less issues.

Stable strong genetics are most definitely a factor actually strains are designed to be able to handle mold and mildew for our region and I have had luck with very few outdoors getting to when they are fully developed. Being able to control everything indoors gives me success with much more variety of strains
In my experience, once PM spores has taken hold in your grow space, the only way to get rid of it completely is to sanitize the grow area via ozone or UVC.

When I first started growing, I didn't have fans, didn't know about defoliation, I ran a humid cupboard that yielded me airy buds but never had issues with PM. Fast forward years later, one year I had the bright idea of revegging clones I took from an outdoor plant inside and that's when I brought PM inside and it's been an issue ever since. I've tried everything, my tents were like a tornado, low humidity, feeding silica etc nothing stopped PM from coming back completely until I bought a UVC bulb from Amazon and sanitized everything in my grow space. Hell I even sanitized my house just in case. I did at the end of a grow, didn't take clones or anything, I wanted to start completely fresh, or as fresh as I could've. It sucked because it takes time to get a perpetual system back running again but I was tired of hawking my 3 tents everyday and taking action as soon as I see it. Honestly PM still gives me nightmares, I'd dream about walking into my grow room and seeing it ravaged by PM lol

I haven't had PM since and hopefully i never get PM ever again.
 

Week4@inCharge

Well-Known Member
In my experience, once PM spores has taken hold in your grow space, the only way to get rid of it completely is to sanitize the grow area via ozone or UVC.

When I first started growing, I didn't have fans, didn't know about defoliation, I ran a humid cupboard that yielded me airy buds but never had issues with PM. Fast forward years later, one year I had the bright idea of revegging clones I took from an outdoor plant inside and that's when I brought PM inside and it's been an issue ever since. I've tried everything, my tents were like a tornado, low humidity, feeding silica etc nothing stopped PM from coming back completely until I bought a UVC bulb from Amazon and sanitized everything in my grow space. Hell I even sanitized my house just in case. I did at the end of a grow, didn't take clones or anything, I wanted to start completely fresh, or as fresh as I could've. It sucked because it takes time to get a perpetual system back running again but I was tired of hawking my 3 tents everyday and taking action as soon as I see it. Honestly PM still gives me nightmares, I'd dream about walking into my grow room and seeing it ravaged by PM lol

I haven't had PM since and hopefully i never get PM ever again.
Saw it somewhere that a compost tea sprayed (foliar spraying) on your plants can be really good at preventing spores from attaching to the leaves, I've personally used a lactic acid (LABS) solution (that I made myself) to get rid of PM.
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
I live on the east coast and we have bad humidity in certain times of the year. Temps are OK but humidity is crazy..

I always ran a dehu and plenty of airflow and still had issues. Once I added a UVA light during flowering I didn't have it again. When you go outside and really look alot of trees have it. My theory is it just carries it's way in as a spore and is waiting to thrive and even if imperfect conditions it will still make it's way. The UVA seemed to have helped.

Also added an intake pre filter.. perhaps this allows the plant to breathe easier and have an even better immune system. It always seemed like the plants to get PM were the unhappy ones. what a waste of bud but great learning experience for me. Make sure your monitoring humidity 24/7. It could also be a night time humidity spike causing this.

I'd clean everything with simple green, rinse, then h202. Then heat it up like you're saying but if there are already affected plants sadly it's systemic and when the buds get fat you will most likely see it again. Look into how spraying with milk works if you're desperate it will help harbor beneficial bacteria to help get rid of the systemic part, but you'll still have to deal with why it happened in the first place

Uvc is dangerous it will degrade your equipments plastics be careful!

I've heard airros works well i think it may be a hydrogen trioxide generator or something. It generates a special ozone that will really make sure no germs harm your plant. Expensive and hard to afford for most hobby growers
Powdery mildew dies if you get it wet; this is why surfactants are so effective against it.

To clean a tent, use soapy water and wipe or spray down the whole thing.
 

jimihendrix1

Well-Known Member
Mold can't grow in direct sunlight because it naturally contains UV light. Have you noticed that you only see fungus growing in shaded areas? And even though fungus dies in sunlight, it is actually the invisible portion of the light spectrum that destroys the mold.
Nature
https://www.nature.com/articles/s41438-021-00629-5

UV-B light and its application potential to reduce disease and pest ...
Sep 1, 2021 · Ultraviolet-B radiation (280–315 nm), perceived by the plant photoreceptor UVR8, is a key environmental signal that influences plant growth and development and can reduce …
I use 2 Solacure Flower Power bulbs, for each 4 x 4 area, and have for 6-8 years. I also start my seedlings, and Rooted Clones, under either a 1000w Hortilux Blue, or 1000w Hortilux Blue, and 2 SC bulbs for 4 x 4. Though I have bought some of the new MassMedicalStrains 1000w 5800k bulbs to replace the Hortilux Blue, as they stopped making the HPS, and Halide. The MMS bulb, has about the same exact spectrum as he Blue, around 5800k, and is up to $100 cheaper, and 20% More Powerful. MMS bullb was $60. Blue was $150.

The Solacure, is the only Plant Specific UVA/B bulb, that goes to 280nm. It is also T12, and has a huge diameter, which equals more light, and also has a Built In Reflector, inside the bulb.
You cannot reflect UVA/B. Period. It is absorbed, and not reflected, by normal means. Solacure uses expensive glass, that allows the transfer of 280nm. Its the strongest bulb of its type at 280nm-315nm.
The Agromax Pure, goes to 290nm, but wont activate the RUV8 Receptor, and at T5, doesnt put out nearly as much light, even with 54w vs 32w-40w for the Solacure. Solacure is also overbuilt, and can be run as high as 80w
We licensed Sol Glass for this lamp, like our SG series lamps. It is more transparent than any other UV glass made, and allows transmission of UVB between 280nm and 300nm, something other lamps don't do well, and is infinitely more powerful than the most powerful Replite bulb, which is the Arcadia Desert Dragon.

Cutaway of RUVA UVB horticultural lamp

Like most Solacure lamps, the Flower Power has a built in reflector, so you don't need to worry about using reflective material with it. Mylar, white paint, all these absorb UV anyway, they are useless for reflecting it. The image on the left shows a regular lamp, the image on the right is how the Flower Power is designed, with an internal reflector. It forces all the light to go in one direction, making designing and installing a system much easier. This means the lamp has about 50% more total UV output than a non-reflector design with a home made reflector.

Also, the Hortilux Blue, and MMS Halide have a spectrum oof 280nm-2000nm+

 
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ttystikk

Well-Known Member
Mold can't grow in direct sunlight because it naturally contains UV light. Have you noticed that you only see fungus growing in shaded areas? And even though fungus dies in sunlight, it is actually the invisible portion of the light spectrum that destroys the mold.
Nature
https://www.nature.com/articles/s41438-021-00629-5

UV-B light and its application potential to reduce disease and pest ...
Sep 1, 2021 · Ultraviolet-B radiation (280–315 nm), perceived by the plant photoreceptor UVR8, is a key environmental signal that influences plant growth and development and can reduce …
I use 2 Solacure Flower Power bulbs, for each 4 x 4 area, and have for 6-8 years. I also start my seedlings, and Rooted Clones, under either a 1000w Hortilux Blue, or 1000w Hortilux Blue, and 2 SC bulbs for 4 x 4. Though I have bought some of the new MassMedicalStrains 1000w 5800k bulbs to replace the Hortilux Blue, as they stopped making the HPS, and Halide. The MMS bulb, has about the same exact spectrum as he Blue, around 5800k, and is up to $100 cheaper, and 20% More Powerful. MMS bullb was $60. Blue was $150.

The Solacure, is the only Plant Specific UVA/B bulb, that goes to 280nm. It is also T12, and has a huge diameter, which equals more light, and also has a Built In Reflector, inside the bulb.
You cannot reflect UVA/B. Period. It is absorbed, and not reflected, by normal means. Solacure uses expensive glass, that allows the transfer of 280nm. Its the strongest bulb of its type at 280nm-315nm.
The Agromax Pure, goes to 290nm, but wont activate the RUV8 Receptor, and at T5, doesnt put out nearly as much light, even with 54w vs 32w-40w for the Solacure. Solacure is also overbuilt, and can be run as high as 80w
We licensed Sol Glass for this lamp, like our SG series lamps. It is more transparent than any other UV glass made, and allows transmission of UVB between 280nm and 300nm, something other lamps don't do well, and is infinitely more powerful than the most powerful Replite bulb, which is the Arcadia Desert Dragon.

Cutaway of RUVA UVB horticultural lamp

Like most Solacure lamps, the Flower Power has a built in reflector, so you don't need to worry about using reflective material with it. Mylar, white paint, all these absorb UV anyway, they are useless for reflecting it. The image on the left shows a regular lamp, the image on the right is how the Flower Power is designed, with an internal reflector. It forces all the light to go in one direction, making designing and installing a system much easier. This means the lamp has about 50% more total UV output than a non-reflector design with a home made reflector.

Also, the Hortilux Blue, and MMS Halide have a spectrum oof 280nm-2400nm+
Solacure UV lights have a solid reputation.
 

waytoofaded

Well-Known Member
Powdery mildew dies if you get it wet; this is why surfactants are so effective against it.

To clean a tent, use soapy water and wipe or spray down the whole thing.
PM won't die by just getting wet. Surfactants make water "wetter" so whatever is mixed in it actually lathers the plant surface, but the surfactant isn't doing anything itself.

Saw it somewhere that a compost tea sprayed (foliar spraying) on your plants can be really good at preventing spores from attaching to the leaves, I've personally used a lactic acid (LABS) solution (that I made myself) to get rid of PM.
Ive read about compost tea too, never tried that but i did try milk, which didnt really work. How do you make lactic acid? Mind sharing your procedure?

Mold can't grow in direct sunlight because it naturally contains UV light. Have you noticed that you only see fungus growing in shaded areas? And even though fungus dies in sunlight, it is actually the invisible portion of the light spectrum that destroys the mold.
Powdery Mildew can grow in direct sunlight, I've seen it for myself in my garden in the summer, although it does better in a shaded environment. I double checked on ChatGPT just incase and it confirmed it can grow in sunlight. I don't have any personal experience with UVB bulbs, I was so fed up i just went straight to the nuclear UVC option. I've read of growers using UVB to control PM, no personal experience though. I think I'm going to pick up a Solacure UV you reccomended though, I was planning on buying a random reptile bulb instead, I've been wanting to add UVB into my flowering tents anyways.
 
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