Cannasutraorganics
Well-Known Member
I was looking for you before I commented.
What he said. Some might change the flavor. Or enhance part of it. But non of them increase THC, and most reduce it. I like weed smell and taste.
curious about enhancing plant flavors...
- Thread starter c0ldsm0ke
- Start date
What he said. Some might change the flavor. Or enhance part of it. But non of them increase THC, and most reduce it. I like weed smell and taste.
Uncle Ben
Well-Known Member
I guarantee you all the shysters that have jumped on the cannabis specific products train have done so after lurking in cannabis forums, taking notes, taking a admin round table poll of what folks want (right or wrong, doesn't matter), designing or re-bottling a product with a fancy name, bottle label, claims, testimonials, and all the marketing bullshit that goes with it and lo and behold! It ends up on a shelf in a hydro store and another subject thread in a cannabis forum. 
Subject - " 'Grandpa's Sunshine Piss' in a bottle, does it really pump trikes?"
UB
Subject - " 'Grandpa's Sunshine Piss' in a bottle, does it really pump trikes?"
UB
budman111
Well-Known Member
LOL LOL LOL
churchhaze
Well-Known Member
You want to enhance plant flavors?
Right this way, sir....
http://rollitup.org/t/expert-method-to-fixing-that-hay-smell.849546
Right this way, sir....
http://rollitup.org/t/expert-method-to-fixing-that-hay-smell.849546
Hydroburn
Well-Known Member
waterdawg
Well-Known Member
So I'm confused lol. If its possible to adversely change the flavour (as in my case) would it not be logical to assume that the flavour could be enhanced? As I have never really added many enhancers/boosters except for the smelly crap I dont know. I try to keep it all pretty simple.
Squidbilly
Well-Known Member
Most people just get swindled by marketing and bad advice on canna forums, lol. If your in hydro, or using tap water, molasses isn't going to do much for you. The sugar is to feed the microbes in your soil, so if your soil or medium isn't cultured, your just putting sugar into it and risking fermentaion. Mollasses is to feed microbes throughout the grow, not just at the end.
The 'sweet' products are a different story, and definitely have a positive impact toward the end of flowering. It's not the sugar, but the sulfur , magnesse, and other ingredients that kick start resin production.
Anyone who has used a product like this will tell you that it has an impact on the final product - usually making for a sweeter, cleaner, and more enjoyable burn/taste. I will never grow without molasses or a sweet product(depending on the style I'm growing in).
Squidbilly
Well-Known Member
You can definitely enhance flavor and aroma. They are expressions of the phenotype, which we all know can be expressed differently in different growing conditions. That being said, there isn't a magic product that will do it, rather multiple strategies that CAN have a positive impact on flavor and aroma.
The most important is feeding your plant a well balanced diet, and even more importantly not to overfeed.
Keep your watering schedule consistent and water at the same time every time you do - letting your plants get too dry under a HID bulb quickly cooks off some of the more subtle terpenes.
I personally believe that soil is far superior to hydro as far as smell and flavor go. Completely organic is even better.
Keeping your grow room environment dialed in and consistent is also a big help.
The healthier a plant is, from seedling/clone to fully mature, the better the finished product will be(duh).
Some might give me shit for this, but I've found that if I run my RH too low during flower - anyting under 40% IMO - has a negative impact on flavor/aroma. My buds seam to smell a lot more with my RH around 45-50%
A SLOW dry is crucial too. If your buds take less than 7 days to dry, your doing it too quickly and loosing alot of terpenes in the process.
On a side note - anyting other than a good base nutrient is for the sole purpose of increasing yield. I believe every product you add on top of that actually masks the plants true aroma less noticable. I ALWAYS start to get the most smell when I'm doing my long flush at the end of flower.
This has been my experience anyway.
LordDiesel
Active Member
Excess sugars and highly active microbes/benes in hydro = foam, only use molasses for soil grows or some coco mixes. Certain things (environmental/feeding) can be done to increase oil and resin production but, as to what and when, varies greatly from strain-to-strain and pheno-to-pheno. Spend time working with a strain, learn its lingo, its ins and outs. As said many times before, a proper dry (5-7 days) and cure (2-3 months) will really set things apart in the end product.
waterdawg
Well-Known Member
I started using a beni tea this run and use molasses to brew it. No foam, just a big mat of white roots.
LordDiesel
Active Member
Awesome glad to hear of successes. It's true other things factor in as well, temps, O2, water movement etc... It similar to what happens to beaches after heavy rains wash lots of fresh water, biologicals and dirt/silt into the churning ocean surf you get sea foam.
The only time I personally ran molasses was in an aero system I made from 8" tubes. It was on a chilled reservoir @68f but I found it happened more because I was moving highly oxygenated water at 2500gph through 1/2" PVC.
Uncle Ben
Well-Known Member
2500gph through 1/2" PVC? Did I read that right?
LordDiesel
Active Member
Sorry, typo... 1500gph pump had it dialed down to about 3/4, so probably closer to 1000gph. I had 6 1/2" lines with crosses and tees feeding 14 1/2" to 1/4" MIP Barbs to 1/4" spaghetti then the yellow 360 sprayers each teed off and had a ball valve controlling flow from a 3/4" main that ran across the back wall. Each line fed 2 tubes 6 sites per tube = 84 sprayers total. 2 lines feeding sprayers drilled and grommeted on either side of each basket. Really never had pressure issues except once when a spaghetti tube worked itself out a grommet and I found it spraying the floor. Drain never clogged up, I had gutter guards sitting on the bottom of each 8" tube to allow water to flow easy to drain and clogged sprayers were easy to change cause they were top mounted and feed down into the tube instead of a pressurized line running inside your tubes spraying up.
Sorry... Clarified.
LordDiesel
Active Member
waterdawg
Well-Known Member
I know we are getting off topic but I'm going to have issues real soon I fear. First time using sprayers and have a few design issues! Roots are starting to drop down into (totes) main res. I'm not sure how this is going to turn out as I'm only 2 weeks into flower. Also my roots coming out have gotten so entangled in the manifold pipes I am unable to lift the lid more than an inch so sprayer changes are not happening.
LordDiesel
Active Member
Most root development will slow around week 3 or so in flower, you can prune roots back some if really needed. As long as your res is in a dark area, well aerated, and not running ppm super high you can let roots grow in some as long as its not causing you drainage issues. Changing sprayers is a pain in the ass after lots of root development especially in bottom feed systems (those that spray upwards) you will probably need to trim some roots to get to them. If you're using a submersible that feeds a riser going up to the manifold then try disconnecting the pump and lifting plants, root mass, manifold as one and with clean hands or wearing glove try to untangle the manifold from roots. Don't let the roots get too much light or dry out too much while attempting. This is why I HATE bottom feed aero systems, always design systems with "ease of maintenance" being a top priority. They sell mesh bags (or liberate a pair of pantyhose from the misses) that you can put a submersible in or on mine I was running an inline and just siliconed a 3"x3" piece of doubled over pantyhose over the inlet (outlet?) running from res to pump. Best of luck with it, if you can deal with it now, like I said root growth should begin to slow in the coming weeks and become less of an ongoing issue.
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