Megalomando
Well-Known Member
I guess I need to assemble and then give the panels a test run to see how much heat it generates in a still room. While I can put a fan at the top of the tent to make for better convection at the heatsinks, if the best thing is to add a fan, I can do that, I was just hoping to simplify things by eliminating the fan if possible. - One plus about having everything on one board is the ease in using it in more than one place, sometimes it's helpful for things to be self contained.
One possibility I see is much like the photo Supra offered of the 3.5x40 version with the driver on top & a fan present. If I were to get thin aluminum sheeting and use "L" tabs, I could anchor it to the top of the fins and extend it the full length of the heatsink. With a hole for the fan, a 120mm fan would pass air to all the fins and eject it out both ends. Like in that photo, the driver could live on top. My tallest point will be 78" so any space saving in the lighting will be a help. Thankfully I won't have to deal with the heat from a HPS. If the passive temps are not much with the 4 50W COBs, I might could use pressboard instead of that aluminum sheet, that will be easier for me to find than aluminum sheeting. If I had the right tools and found the aluminum, I could make a U-channel to fit on the top of the heatsink. But all I have are hand tools.
Years back I had something that would be perfect, it was a military surplus heat sink of long Around 30" long x 8"-9" wide extruded aluminum. There were two halves that made it as one. They slid together lengthwise, locking as the two edges linked together and when slid together, formed a hollow heatsink with the fins inside and a smooth rectangular surface outside. A 120MM fan fit perfectly in to one end and blew the heat out the other end. Banks of power transistors were on "shelves" on each side. I had two of those, let them go cause I just didn't need them then...
One possibility I see is much like the photo Supra offered of the 3.5x40 version with the driver on top & a fan present. If I were to get thin aluminum sheeting and use "L" tabs, I could anchor it to the top of the fins and extend it the full length of the heatsink. With a hole for the fan, a 120mm fan would pass air to all the fins and eject it out both ends. Like in that photo, the driver could live on top. My tallest point will be 78" so any space saving in the lighting will be a help. Thankfully I won't have to deal with the heat from a HPS. If the passive temps are not much with the 4 50W COBs, I might could use pressboard instead of that aluminum sheet, that will be easier for me to find than aluminum sheeting. If I had the right tools and found the aluminum, I could make a U-channel to fit on the top of the heatsink. But all I have are hand tools.
Years back I had something that would be perfect, it was a military surplus heat sink of long Around 30" long x 8"-9" wide extruded aluminum. There were two halves that made it as one. They slid together lengthwise, locking as the two edges linked together and when slid together, formed a hollow heatsink with the fins inside and a smooth rectangular surface outside. A 120MM fan fit perfectly in to one end and blew the heat out the other end. Banks of power transistors were on "shelves" on each side. I had two of those, let them go cause I just didn't need them then...
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