Rocket Soul
Well-Known Member
Chips, driver, cabling and heatsink/frame, and thats it.Is this way of having leds its better? (As in quality for price) the setup is basically drivers and strips?
Chips, driver, cabling and heatsink/frame, and thats it.Is this way of having leds its better? (As in quality for price) the setup is basically drivers and strips?
But is it a more reasonable for the proce and quality?Chips, driver, cabling and heatsink/frame, and thats it.
It depends on how you design it and what parts you use. For me personally i prefer diy cause it gives me exactly what i want and the sense of achievement when my light does 2g per wattBut is it a more reasonable for the proce and quality?
I'd say that 80 watts should work well vegging 4 sq ft.I want to build a veg light for a 1-ft x 4-ft space using bridgelux strips, and it’s been a while since I’ve learned how to match everything up so would appreciate experiential input.
Wish I could get the gen 2 version, but lead time is months so I assume the next best option is the gen 3 slims. I’d like to run the 1120mm at close to nominal levels:
mAmps Volts Watts
700 38.2 26.8
so 3 of them at a total of 116 volts would give 80 watts which I think should be sufficient for the first 4 weeks of veg. My intention is to start with 4000k strips, and if I choose to do flowering in this room I can just add 3 of the 5700k strips and I should be good, right?
To drive 3 of the strips in series I believe an HLG-80H-C700A would work. It’s Constant Current at 700 mA with a voltage range of 64-129V. Here’s the data sheet:
https://www.meanwell.com/Upload/PDF/HLG-80H-C/HLG-80H-C-SPEC.PDF
1) Is 4000’K and 5700’k good choices, or would it be better/more practical to mix in some 3500K or just go with all 4000s?
2) Is my driver choice correct?
TIA.
Description | AC-DC Single output enclosed power supply; Universal AC input; Output 48Vdc at 1.6A; Up to 5G vibration; 1U low profile | ||
Application | Household EN 60335 IT AV EN/UL/IEC 62368-1 | ||
Technology | AC/DC | ||
Power Format | Box Type - Enclosed | ||
Output Power (W) | 75 | ||
Output Voltage (V) | 48 | ||
Output Current (A) | 1.6 | ||
Input Voltage (V) | 85 - 264 Universal Input 110/230V |
Your power supply is going in protection mode(overload), that's why is flashing(hiccup).Hello!
I tried to run a QB288 quantum board with a MeanWell LRS-75-48 driver but all the board does is constant flashing.
Faulty board or just wrong driver?
Tried reducing the voltage but it still flashes. Guess I'll have to order a HLG series driver. Thanks for your answer!Your power supply is going in protection mode(overload), that's why is flashing(hiccup).
Next to the green LED there is a potentiometer to adjust the output Voltage. Turn it anticlockwise to reduce the Voltage.
what generation qb288 are you using? V2 boards will be cutting it super close but feel like it should work, but v1 boards pull @ 50V at 1.6A.Hello!
I tried to run a QB288 quantum board with a MeanWell LRS-75-48 driver but all the board does is constant flashing.
Faulty board or just wrong driver?
View attachment 4790833
Description AC-DC Single output enclosed power supply; Universal AC input; Output 48Vdc at 1.6A; Up to 5G vibration; 1U low profile Application Household EN 60335
IT AV EN/UL/IEC 62368-1Technology AC/DC Power Format Box Type - Enclosed Output Power (W) 75 Output Voltage (V) 48 Output Current (A) 1.6 Input Voltage (V) 85 - 264
Universal Input 110/230V
Update: I tried one more time reducing the voltage of the driver to the very minimum and now it works! thanks everyoneYour power supply is going in protection mode(overload), that's why is flashing(hiccup).
Next to the green LED there is a potentiometer to adjust the output Voltage. Turn it anticlockwise to reduce the Voltage.
Wrong driver. This is a regular power supply, not a led driver. It's unable to regulate the current output and thus the strip is drawing way more current than the driver is designed for and it's trippin'.I tried to run a QB288 quantum board with a MeanWell LRS-75-48 driver but all the board does is constant flashing.
Faulty board or just wrong driver?
Can anyone help?I just built an led light from a security light but it is not meant to run at full blast all the time, can I wire a potentiometer or is it no good and I should return it. Gets so hot as emergency precaution It's set for very short intervals.
Post some pics or give more info.Can anyone help?
It's a Strühm Kroma LED 100w 4500k. It really blasts the leds so my idea is if I cannot modify it to lower current I could put a cpu heatsink with water-cooling if necessary, but I don't believe the life is long on the leds then. I found a brand that has 30w cobs (replacement cobs are 7eur so decent price) in it but I would need to order a 36v ps to run them and it's tricky in these parts. I would like to wire what I have available to be more resourceful and economical. Is it possible to mod these security lights or should I return it and get something shitty to keep my tomatoes alive because I stole their led for another tent.Post some pics or give more info.
Not all drivers have the resistive dimming function and potentiometers are not designed to handle much current.