DIY Passive cooling with PIN Heatsinks SST120 and SST140

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
yeah high ppf brings out the problems if everything isnt PERFECT

my 4x315CMH in a 5x5 did not go as expected at all, and thats with controlled 1200-1500 ppm co2. in this case cold temps+too much light messed me up i think, stress city
Cold temps? How cold? I'm having a similar issue.
 

Growmau5

Well-Known Member
@ttystikk my latest run has been a very humbling experience with this high PPFD. Just when I think I am becoming some kind of expert, this wonderful plant schools my ass.
So let me ask you: on CO2 do you believe in 1500ppm lights on to lights off. Or do you practice any of the nuances that we often read about such as:
-delay CO2 enrichment until 30-60mins after the beginning of the photoperiod
-begin with 1000ppm for the first 14-21 days of the flowering period and then ramp up to 1200-1500ppm
-or any other experience you can share with CO2 & COBs

Also, does anyone have a vapor pressure deficit resource that specifically discusses VPD in relation to co2 levels with cannabis?
 

cdgmoney250

Well-Known Member
No resources here, but I've been trying to keep my environment within the 'acceptable' range of VPD, while simultaneously trying to keep leaf temps high enough to actually photosynthesize under high PPFD conditions and high CO2 levels. The closer all the parameters are to 'ideal' the plants seem to respond better to the higher irradiance (less stress).
Just my 2 cents.
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
@ttystikk my latest run has been a very humbling experience with this high PPFD. Just when I think I am becoming some kind of expert, this wonderful plant schools my ass.
So let me ask you: on CO2 do you believe in 1500ppm lights on to lights off. Or do you practice any of the nuances that we often read about such as:
-delay CO2 enrichment until 30-60mins after the beginning of the photoperiod
-begin with 1000ppm for the first 14-21 days of the flowering period and then ramp up to 1200-1500ppm
-or any other experience you can share with CO2 & COBs

Also, does anyone have a vapor pressure deficit resource that specifically discusses VPD in relation to co2 levels with cannabis?
I haven't played with a lot of variability with my co2 enrichment intentionally, but my tanks do pop pretty quickly and then it might be a day before I get another one in.

I haven't seen any VPD vs CO2 PPM resources. My suspicion is that since leaf stomata must be open for CO2 exchange to occur, VPD needs to be on point for that to happen.
 

CoB_nUt

Well-Known Member
Thanks @ttystikk, @Growmau5 and @bobby g for those numbers and advice. I got some light bleaching and some light stress from having the 3590's too close. Moved them up to 16" and the plants responded well. The 3070's are still 10-12" above the canopy without issue. I was shooting for 1000 ppfd with hopes of falling in the 900 and up range. I figure once the 3rd bar is built, i'll Be able to dim the space to the plants liking if need be. I'm nit master grower by any means, I just try to grow happy,healthy plants from start to finish k.i.s.s. style.
 

PDX Joe

Well-Known Member
@CoB_nUt @Abiqua
Reached out to graftech and asked them if graphite thermal pad on aluminum heatsink could cause galvanic corrosion.
They mentioned that there needs to be a electrolyte such as water to start galvanic corrosion. Even under high humidity the aluminum oxide layer formed on the aluminum surface is sufficient to protect the pure aluminum below.

Looks like graphite thermal pads are fine for use on Cobs.
I would avoid sanding before installing cob. Sanding the heatsink would remove the aluminum oxide layer and may cause an issue.

Hi Robin,

I have some graphite pads from Cutter and just sanded my Arctic heatsinks. I am wondering if this may cause a corrosion issue. Should I let the heatsinks sit out for awhile to build up an oxide film or maybe see if I can get them anodized? Thoughts?

Thanks!
 

JorgeGonzales

Well-Known Member
Hi Robin,

I have some graphite pads from Cutter and just sanded my Arctic heatsinks. I am wondering if this may cause a corrosion issue. Should I let the heatsinks sit out for awhile to build up an oxide film or maybe see if I can get them anodized? Thoughts?

Thanks!
"In dry air and at normal temperatures, an aluminium oxide layer up to several millionths of a millimetre thick forms within minutes and during the course of the next few days grows to double or treble this thickness. Growth rate and thickness increase with increasing temperature...In moist air (for example aluminium parts used in building construction that are exposed to the weather), the oxide layer can reach a thickness of a thousandth of a millimetre, which is significantly more than in dry air."

http://www.aluinfo.de/index.php/alu-encyclopaedia.html?lid=79

Anyway, I wouldn't sweat it. You really need metal grinding on metal in an oxygen-free environment to get galvanic corrosion.
 

PDX Joe

Well-Known Member
"In dry air and at normal temperatures, an aluminium oxide layer up to several millionths of a millimetre thick forms within minutes and during the course of the next few days grows to double or treble this thickness. Growth rate and thickness increase with increasing temperature...In moist air (for example aluminium parts used in building construction that are exposed to the weather), the oxide layer can reach a thickness of a thousandth of a millimetre, which is significantly more than in dry air."

http://www.aluinfo.de/index.php/alu-encyclopaedia.html?lid=79

Anyway, I wouldn't sweat it. You really need metal grinding on metal in an oxygen-free environment to get galvanic corrosion.
It almost sounds like you could introduce hot steam and get a thicker oxide layer before installing the COBs. I wonder though about the contact of the steel COB holder with the aluminum and with the presence of grow room humidity could cause galvanic corrosion? Seems like anodizing could be an extra precaution against this? Northern Grow Lights and others selling the pin heatsinks must be anodizing them for a reason... right?
 

robincnn

Well-Known Member
No need to get it anodize where you sanded. It is not a big issue if you keep a check on humidity.
Like George said give it a few minutes to let the top layer oxidize after sanding.
Graphie and Aluminum are far in series so it could be an issue. Steel and Aluminum are not that far.
 

PDX Joe

Well-Known Member
No need to get it anodize where you sanded. It is not a big issue if you keep a check on humidity.
Like George said give it a few minutes to let the top layer oxidize after sanding.
Thanks. Does wiping the heatsink with alcohol before mounting the thermal compound remove the oxide layer or is this not an issue?
 
Top