DIY with Quantum Boards

GreeneryBob

Well-Known Member
I think what he's getting at is if you have a "cheap" potentiometer it may not give the full 100k resistance at max making your driver never hit its full potential. This is really just a function of the tolerance rating on the pot you buy, not necessarily how much it cost. You could pad the pot with an additional 10k-20k resistor in series to be sure to hit the full driver output.

I think the 320-2100 might have been a better choice for this. 3 of those 288V2 boards should fit in the 152V available.

Sweet build, kudos!
Ya, I bought a ten pack of potentiometers for another build and 1 of 10 was on the money, the rest were out. I have both drivers without potentiometers until my order of (hopefully) better ones get in. I with certainly check the resistance on them and add resistance if required.

The reason I ordered the 320-1750 was that it was the recommended driver and instead of thinking for myself, I blindly followed the recommendation on the HLG site. Not really sure why it is the recommended driver other than maybe the info is outdated and for V1 288s or perhaps just to be overly safe on the 1v per board tolerance. I can only blame myself. Maybe I should add some H-Influx boards to bump it up a bit.
 
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Askmax

Member
Hey guys just wanted to update incase anyone runs into a similar problem. The hlg 600h has RC leads that I dont intent on using, so I taped them together and put them to the side. This is what was causing them not to work.
 

pop22

Well-Known Member
I have a 4 QB 304 light. Boards are run at a max of 85 watts each. they put out a LOT of light. In fact, my best grows have been at that power, vs higher levels in the 4x4 tent.
Also, the boards are more efficient at mid power than run at the max. We all need to get over the " more is good and too much is just enough" attitude towards lighting. Remember, more efficient also means less heat. You'll be just fine with this driver. Pushing everything to the max is not the way to go, I've learned that the hard way myself. I killed a 320H-C2800 that way! If you plan on running them hard, plan on adding CO2 also, when you reach 800-900 PPF your maxing out your plants without the addition of CO2


Ya, I bought a ten pack of potentiometers for another build and 1 of 10 was on the money, the rest were out. I have both drivers without potentiometers until my order of (hopefully) better ones get in. I with certainly check the resistance on them and add resistance if required.

The reason I ordered the 320-1750 was that it was the recommended driver and instead of thinking for myself, I blindly followed the recommendation on the HLG site. Not really sure why it is the recommended driver other than maybe the info is outdated and for V1 288s or perhaps just to be overly safe on the 1v per board tolerance. I can only blame myself. Maybe I should add some H-Influx boards to bump it up a bit.
 

GreeneryBob

Well-Known Member
I fully understand that they operate more efficiently under low power and that I have enough power already but I feel my situation is like having a governor on a Ferrari, sure, it is 'better' to drive slowly and obey the speed limits but it sure is nice to be able to 'crank it to 11' and be an idiot if you want to.
 

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
Out of the group of girls , I had a boy ..... 100% DUDE

I was hoping to not throw anymore pollen around or do any more crossing , but this plant is gonna
be salvaged for some male pollen.

STRAIN : SUGAR HIGH
( GG#4 X NINJA TURTLES)

It was a fast growing plant and is pretty healthy, two traits I like. Right now it is sitting on a table without ANY real light on it , but blooming like champ. The smell from the plant is intoxicating, so it became apparent I SHOULD do something with him.

Pods are swelling and splitting , so I will begin pulling pods and drying them out.

Note to new growers hearing about scrubbing males from your garden ......
Don’t be too quick to kill it . Look at it , look at how strong of a plant it is and whether it would be a good STUD to preg out some females. ESPECIALLY if it’s a good strain / cut.

AND MOST IMPORTANTLY.... it’s a FULL MALE 100% .... not a herm plant.

Making your own gear can keep the beans coming ..... no more bagseed.


There are plenty of info on harvesting males , how and storage. Next time think about what you can use from a male ..... then kill it.

93829D5D-D5F1-4141-9A1D-698DC450D47C.jpeg D4BB5955-BDD7-49F2-A043-8F81BD3D9AA8.jpeg 4CF5092A-0A22-4E0C-832C-6972B16E92C2.jpeg
 
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Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
I fully understand that they operate more efficiently under low power and that I have enough power already but I feel my situation is like having a governor on a Ferrari, sure, it is 'better' to drive slowly and obey the speed limits but it sure is nice to be able to 'crank it to 11' and be an idiot if you want to.
Nothing wrong with that .... I always build BEYOND what I need or can use.
Some guys initially think running max WITH ANY LIGHT SYSTEM is what they “should “ do , but find it a hard pill to swallow that these boards ( and similar strips ) perform at less wattage.

It is always better to have more pedal than needed , because that same rig can be OPEN SPACE hung in a large open area and have the power to cover a bigger footprint.
 

hillbill

Well-Known Member
What do folks like for added blue? I'll get extra reds from the elites, but with the base 3000k for the build, things are not very 440nm-y.
Most white LEDs have plenty of blue for us. Just check spectrums of Standard HPS and Hortilux and check that little uptick in blues they brag on. Then check the spectrum of COBs or Boards.
 

zypheruk

Well-Known Member
I have a 4 QB 304 light. Boards are run at a max of 85 watts each. they put out a LOT of light. In fact, my best grows have been at that power, vs higher levels in the 4x4 tent.
Also, the boards are more efficient at mid power than run at the max. We all need to get over the " more is good and too much is just enough" attitude towards lighting. Remember, more efficient also means less heat. You'll be just fine with this driver. Pushing everything to the max is not the way to go, I've learned that the hard way myself. I killed a 320H-C2800 that way! If you plan on running them hard, plan on adding CO2 also, when you reach 800-900 PPF your maxing out your plants without the addition of CO2
So 21.25 watts per square foot that's dam good. How tall are the plants?.
 

pop22

Well-Known Member
depends on the strain really. Trainwreck stayed about 4ft. Hammer of the Gods hit 7ft in a 6.6 tenet...lol. It was my first photo grow with the QB 304 light. My timer was on the blink and I didn't realize it for 2 weeks, so they had 44 days of veg....lol Thought my tent was going to burst. I took on plant out and moved it to another 4x4. The grow was so out of control it crazy. Note to self.....check the damned timers!

Here is the tent in early flower


QB tent pic2 -6-14-2017.jpg

So 21.25 watts per square foot that's dam good. How tall are the plants?.
 

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
What do folks like for added blue? I'll get extra reds from the elites, but with the base 3000k for the build, things are not very 440nm-y.
I added a 4000k overhead to 3000k duals and have this 4000 for supplemental use .
The white blue color is evident when compared to the 3000.

E85D22C3-036D-4F85-9716-E92ED9CADF00.jpeg

I typically use this tripod mount for seedling starts but can be used as a supplemental.

24390477-5834-4E50-B8F7-4E2F6CDCAA38.jpeg
 

Yodaweed

Well-Known Member
Most white LEDs have plenty of blue for us. Just check spectrums of Standard HPS and Hortilux and check that little uptick in blues they brag on. Then check the spectrum of COBs or Boards.
Too much blue makes larf. White LEDs are blue leds sprayed with a coating.
 

oill

Well-Known Member
Hi all. Just getting to the end of my 1st grow with my hlg 288 lights. Some of the plants seem to be almost ready at 6 weeks. Do these leds shorten the lift cycle of the plant by that much or have I messed something else up?
 
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