It's best to transplant several times.. It allows the soil to cycle through fresh waterings faster and helps with mold, stem-rot, and basically any other issue that results from water-logging for too long at a time.. As for special tips for DP, it's apparently a pretty hardy strain, so it shouldn't be tough.. Just remember that sativas like to get lanky, and can grow quite a bit in late life, and it's really not a good thing to prune them harshly during 12/12, or even a couple of weeks before the flip, so be prepared to manage height from the start whether it be by bending or early flowering if space is a factor..
And remember your base in 5Gal pails will be ~1.5' from the ground, a hook/light will consume atleast 1', and you'll need atleast 1' between the bulb and tops depending on wattage, so atleast 3.5' of your vertical space will be taken up by equipment..
Lastly, drill waay more/bigger drainage into those pails than you'd think is necessary, and if spill-over needs to be contained then get a big-ass water-catcher because when you water you're going to want to use alot of volume to wash out the root-system of used nutes etc.. Use a good potting soil that doesn't compact, don't pour your water like you're using a fire-hose, monitor/manage your pH well with proper pH Up/Down, don't over feed like 90% of new growers.. Plants are much better at managing nute deficiencies for a few days than they are toxicity, so learn the sugns of problems that are posted, and before you even react to those, consider the possibility that the symptoms are actually lock-out caused by pH issues..
In general if you decide you have a problem that needs to be addressed, it's probably best to flush well, and start with as clean a slate as possible..
Most of this is generic growing advice as good for any ther strain too.. Just read read read.. Focus on the basics that the old schoolers swear by because it's all you need.. Once you nail that then you can decide if you want to indulge in the new-school expensive gimmicky stuff..