Dutch master zone replacement

rkymtnman said:
HTH pool shock. 0.15 g per 10 gal RO gives 1ppm chlorine. i was using at 0.30 g since I do hempy buckets and res temps get fairly high.
Click to expand...

aha, I use pool shock to make chlorine to kill the algae that builds up after heavy rains on my long backyard walkway

do you think bennies replace the need for products like zone? In health, one should not take antibiotics, which wipe out all bacteria when they have a pathogenic bacteria imbalance, they need PRObiotics, which re-balances the system in a natural way
 
My last veg run I did 4, 5 gal DWC buckets with Hydroguard and 4 with UC Roots. On all of them there was no form of chilling with rez temps consistently in the low 80's. To further push it, I didn't change the rez at all - just topped with fresh nutes/RO as needed.

All 8 grew fine - no issues at all. All of them had great roots. 6 of them went down to the flower room 2 weeks ago and the other 2 are still in my veg tent. I have changed the rez's at this point...
 
In my flower room system, an Under Current, I go sterile for now. I may switch - still undecided...

As far as cost - Hydroguard wins big against UC Roots
 
I prefer 100% organic for long season grows under the sun. Compost teas composed of seranade, actinovate, insect frass, SNS209, for fungals and insect management. In a indoor closed system composed of Air conditioners, dehumidifiers , and scrubbers i prefer 100% sterile. Have had lesser results with growing organically inside. Been alot of devolpments over the years in indoor organic growing. Alot to explore. Million ways to do things! As for now in a sterile enviroment i believe Zone is better than Clear-Rez for pythium. When i need to do a room overhaul will be looking at all these posts for experiances with more modern organic indoor gardening.
 
PetFlora said:
Have you seen the price of Zone, which according to them, needs to be replaced every coupe days, n doubt due to evap
Click to expand...
If it contains chloramine, evap shouldn't be a problem. 10 ml for 5 gallons is not expensive, compared to a product like Hygrozyme that's 10-15 ml per gallon. That's what most of the hydro stores around me try to sell you.
 
boilingoil said:
If it contains chloramine, evap shouldn't be a problem. 10 ml for 5 gallons is not expensive, compared to a product like Hygrozyme that's 10-15 ml per gallon. That's what most of the hydro stores around me try to sell you.
Click to expand...
It's hypochlorous acid, not chloramine. And it needs to be replaced because it works by binding onto the things that it's killing. So, it gets used up and needs to be replaced.
 
rkymtnman said:
i think you either pick bennies or sterile. i choose sterile: kill everything. either way works though. just personal preference
Click to expand...

As I understand it, the bennies gather on the roots (and elsewhere) where they assist with nutrient uptake
 
PetFlora said:
As I understand it, the bennies gather on the roots (and elsewhere) where they assist with nutrient uptake
Click to expand...

it's a battle of good vs bad bacteria. adding hydroguard is the good bacteria. but the main ingredient is a bacteria found in soil. so why try to copy what you do in soil when you are doing hydro is my argument for running sterile.
 
FennarioMike said:
It's hypochlorous acid, not chloramine. And it needs to be replaced because it works by binding onto the things that it's killing. So, it gets used up and needs to be replaced.
Click to expand...
Since the switch they have me all screwed up. I used to use the Gold Range Zone and from my understanding it was triple filtered Chloramines that was the main ingredient along with copper sulfate. Now that I look at the new bottles it says not to be used with organics.
 
boilingoil said:
Since the switch they have me all screwed up. I used to use the Gold Range Zone and from my understanding it was triple filtered Chloramines that was the main ingredient along with copper sulfate. Now that I look at the new bottles it says not to be used with organics.
Click to expand...
i think Mike is talking about UC roots, not Zone.

i just checked out the msds for Zone: main ingredient is a proprietary chloramide derivative.
 
rkymtnman said:
it's a battle of good vs bad bacteria. adding hydroguard is the good bacteria. but the main ingredient is a bacteria found in soil. so why try to copy what you do in soil when you are doing hydro is my argument for running sterile.
Click to expand...

According to my understanding, having watched quite a few NPK Industries tutorials, most of their RAW products work with hydro
 
rkymtnman said:
i used it every res change. would work for at least a week to 2 weeks and then dump res and start again. where does it say to reapply?
zone is just chlorine. same as HTH
Click to expand...

Evaporation rate of chlorine is about 110 hours in open still water. It will drop drastically in aerated moving water. I add e3d and check my residual weekly. You may want to reapply more often if you're treating more plants.

If you want to use Dutch Master zone for treatment I would rather buy copper sulphate from anywhere.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

G
Can this work ? Ebb n flow perpetual style
Replies
0
Views
254
ganjasurfer4
G
Y
I need advices for choosing a good nutrient for a photoperiod 1 month in flower
Replies
16
Views
908
YellowSeeds
Y
deimos phobos
Aqua Master brand pH measurement tools?
Replies
2
Views
327
1212ham
1
Jimski
Jimski's Grow Journal
2 3
Replies
44
Views
2K
Jimski
Jimski
H
using LOW wattage for vegetative holding.
Replies
2
Views
231
Roy O'Bannon
Roy O'Bannon
Back
Top