Dwc Grow Club

Integra21

Well-Known Member
Wheres your lab coat??? is this a NASA gro??
If you read the journal, towards the end i do a walk-through of my room and you might be suprised where this room is. Thanks for the compliments, i worked very hard on it. One question though. Does anyone have a generic ppm chart for a plant life cycle(clone through flower)? I just got a tds/ec meter and have never used one before. the whole first grow was done without one so it is new to me.
 

onthedl0008

Well-Known Member
If you read the journal, towards the end i do a walk-through of my room and you might be suprised where this room is. Thanks for the compliments, i worked very hard on it. One question though. Does anyone have a generic ppm chart for a plant life cycle(clone through flower)? I just got a tds/ec meter and have never used one before. the whole first grow was done without one so it is new to me.
This is a very hard question to answer right here especially not having a ppm tester till recently...but ill give it a shot.

Considering the feed schedule and the PPM u are keeping ur mom's on..
And the health of the cut's being taken.
The quickness of root developement.
How u develope root's..Meaning if u feed ur cuts..ETC.
U should be able to start ur cuts on a strict and hard diet feed schedule..

For example..

I keep my moms around 1400 PPM.
I develope roots in the nursery.
They go into veg mode directly upon root developement.
And i start them @ 900 PPM..
Point is u dont want deficiencies.
And u shouldnt have it as long as ur cuts are healthy.
The trick is keeping them flowing smoothly.
Trying not to disturb the feed schedule u had the moms on that they have become adapted too.

900 PPM freshly rooted cuts.
1400 PPM second week.
1600 PPM third week.
17-1900 third to 5 week.
Then back down before flushing.

Keep in mind that this schedule is based on what my strain likes thruout a full grow cycle.

Urs might differ.

Just keep them consistent. And try not to disrupt them too much and stress them out.

Hope this helps.:weed:
 

redi jedi

Well-Known Member
you can, but why? If you only need one outlet tee the two together and get the most volume of air outta your pump. You can by a tee connection at any pet store/aquarium shop
 

redi jedi

Well-Known Member
Right on! Excellence in engineering!
I'm no engineer but I do make my living repairing all kinds of machinery..including pumps and compressors...without knowing what type of pump or how its constructed, blocking off an outlet could be reducing the pumps output...

and if you look on the box of most dual outlet aqaurium pumps, the output is usaully given per side
 

(Butters)

Well-Known Member
If you read the journal, towards the end i do a walk-through of my room and you might be suprised where this room is. Thanks for the compliments, i worked very hard on it. One question though. Does anyone have a generic ppm chart for a plant life cycle(clone through flower)? I just got a tds/ec meter and have never used one before. the whole first grow was done without one so it is new to me.
This is gonna be very strain dependant. But that's the nice part of having the ppm/tds/ec meter. Your strain will "communicate" with you through this instrument to let you know what ppm it likes. :mrgreen:

Basically, when your ppm drops, your plant is using the nutes you gave it and is going to be able to take a higher ppm (increase this gradually though). If the ppm raises upon testing, it's not using as much nutes as it is water and you may need to back off the nutes a little.

The idea will be to "push" the strain to find what weeks to add the max tolerable ppm and keep a record of this. Then, you have your ppm chart for that strain and can reproduce this with each grow.

Try to get yourself a schedule of checking ppm. I did mine daily and made necessary adjustments as needed (ie added nutes when ppm declined, added water when ppm went up). It works wonders and is one of the great advantages of growing hydro.

Hope this helps and great grow btw.

-Butters :bigjoint:
 

Integra21

Well-Known Member
This is gonna be very strain dependant. But that's the nice part of having the ppm/tds/ec meter. Your strain will "communicate" with you through this instrument to let you know what ppm it likes. :mrgreen:

Basically, when your ppm drops, your plant is using the nutes you gave it and is going to be able to take a higher ppm (increase this gradually though). If the ppm raises upon testing, it's not using as much nutes as it is water and you may need to back off the nutes a little.

The idea will be to "push" the strain to find what weeks to add the max tolerable ppm and keep a record of this. Then, you have your ppm chart for that strain and can reproduce this with each grow.

Try to get yourself a schedule of checking ppm. I did mine daily and made necessary adjustments as needed (ie added nutes when ppm declined, added water when ppm went up). It works wonders and is one of the great advantages of growing hydro.

Hope this helps and great grow btw.

-Butters :bigjoint:
Thanks. It was helpful. I feel like I have fairly strong strains, but I'm either still having problems with my water or something, because I have nutrient burn looking leaves on my blue mystic. It is about 18in tall and the ppm is only at 730. this doesnt seem normal.
 

MuntantLizzard

Well-Known Member
Thanks. It was helpful. I feel like I have fairly strong strains, but I'm either still having problems with my water or something, because I have nutrient burn looking leaves on my blue mystic. It is about 18in tall and the ppm is only at 730. this doesnt seem normal.
Best i can tell you is to do a complete res change.
 

onthedl0008

Well-Known Member
This is gonna be very strain dependant. But that's the nice part of having the ppm/tds/ec meter. Your strain will "communicate" with you through this instrument to let you know what ppm it likes. :mrgreen:

Basically, when your ppm drops, your plant is using the nutes you gave it and is going to be able to take a higher ppm (increase this gradually though). If the ppm raises upon testing, it's not using as much nutes as it is water and you may need to back off the nutes a little.

The idea will be to "push" the strain to find what weeks to add the max tolerable ppm and keep a record of this. Then, you have your ppm chart for that strain and can reproduce this with each grow.

Try to get yourself a schedule of checking ppm. I did mine daily and made necessary adjustments as needed (ie added nutes when ppm declined, added water when ppm went up). It works wonders and is one of the great advantages of growing hydro.

Hope this helps and great grow btw.

-Butters :bigjoint:
Great info man. PPM will most deffinetely be strain dependent.
LOL guess thats the point i was trying to get across. Good stuff.

Thanks. It was helpful. I feel like I have fairly strong strains, but I'm either still having problems with my water or something, because I have nutrient burn looking leaves on my blue mystic. It is about 18in tall and the ppm is only at 730. this doesnt seem normal.
Are u sure its nutrient burn or is it ur plant trying to show u a deficiency?
Also has ur PH been regulated and kept in check? This is also very important. If ur PH is not proper ur plants will LOCK out certain nutrients even tho u r making them available to them they wont be able to use them properly unless ur PH is at proper levels..
They say 5.6-6.2 is safe. I wouldnt allow them to swing in thier to much tho.
Thats why i tell peeps to stick to a happy medium.
Try Ph'ing to 5.8 and keeping it steady.
From thier its a no brainer.
PH will rise if ur not feeding enuff.
PH will drop if ur feeding to much.

Id like to see some pixels.
 

Integra21

Well-Known Member
I change my res weekly and keep the ph within .1 of 5.8 at all times. I have nice dark colored leaves, green healthy stalks, and bleach white roots. But random rust colored spots on mostly old but some new leaves as well. I just changed the ratios of my nutrient mix from the recomended(at half strength) to a new mix i thought would be better on 2 of my mothers. I will try to get pics up in a few hours so It will be easier to diagnose.
 

onthedl0008

Well-Known Member
Rusty Spots Sounds like something ive seen trying to control my Moms in DWC with a light Feed schedule.
I think what u are seeing is a Calcium-Magnesium deficiency actually.
The only way Ive found to keep a mom in DWC is to run her hard and trim and scrap Weekly if not bi weekly to keep her tame and healthy between cutting..
A great alternative to a Mom Beast in DWC would be to start cycling ur Moms over to coco. Can feed them the same but the growth rate is a little slowed..Down a bit.
So they are easier to manage i guess.
Hope this helps.
 

Integra21

Well-Known Member
hopefully your right. I just changed to using more flora micro instead of the reccomended mixin. It is now a 3micro: 1grow: and. 5bloom mix. the original was 3grow: 2micro: and 1bloom. and if it is a cal-mg then this should straiten it out.
 
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