DWC Root Slime Cure aka How to Breed Beneficial Microbes

i run dwc at mid 70's.. changing res every week with fresh brewed tea and i NEVER clean my equipment and its been near 2 years with all the same equipment... tea keeps everything healthy. I brew my tea like so: 2 gallons RO water, a dash of mycogrow soluble powder, a nice pinch of sucanat (dehydrated molasses) then bubble for anywhere from 12-48 hours depending on when i get around to doing the res change.
I'm using maxigrow powder and dutch masters gold silica only as my nutrient line.

whats your ppm at? I noticed with tea my ppm was never above 350 and now using just great white no brew I am getting nute burn at 300!
I lowered to 250 might have to lower it even more, confused.

edit:2nd week flower finished on to 3rd now

Advanced breeds there microbes in home and from what I've read they out a lot of man hours into seeing which works best for cannabis I'm sold on there stuff since I tried the sensi grow and the b1 insaine results I'm sure they contain a lot of the same microbes there's are just better deff wanna try it out and compair it withy tea the root tribe is only used the first 2 weeks of veg and the first 2 of bloom so u really don't use much of it anyways well me anyways only a 17 gal res

Running hberg tea with advanced sensi b/52 and hydroguard,sugar daddy,the ppm about 650 and there growing at least a couple inches a day dwc single 17 gall res 7 strains 13 plants

wow 650 ppm. Full flower I cant even pass 300 ppm anymore and the plants are 3 times
the size of those. I think the bennies make nutrient more available. I have no idea anything higher nitrogen tox
and nute burn.

Ya when I switched to advanced before I was at 400-500 tops with advances at half strength is about 600 so I was like oh shit but they seem to like it drinking about a gallon a day I make a difd version of the hberg tea bit same concept of it just diff ingredients seems to be working so far right now at 656 ppm but my tap is 100 ppm so 556 from the nutes still veg about to flip soon think mabey a week from tomorrow wanted to have them all the Sam height but 2 clones took off on me and now there at the net even after a really hardcore pruning / cloning

In veg atm shoud I have a lower ppm during flower l.? Beg with clones and seedlings at 650ppm and there loving it this is my first dwc run norm grow in soil

I run at 0.8ec (400ppm @ .5)... From veg all through flower... Veg being rooted clones. And I use maxigrow all through flower also, I don't switch to maxibloom. Water and half strength tea only for last 7 days.

Off topic but nutrient strength is related in part to light intensity. More light, slightly higher ppm.

I'd always stay on the low side, plants perform better getting just barely enough than too much.

Luckily with dwc you can find the sweet spot. Check your ppm after 2-3 days. If it's lower than when you started, you need to raise your strength and vice versa.. Your sweet spot being where the ppm stays the same as the water level drops.. Meaning the plant is drinking as much as it's eating.

I noticed that at about 500-550 they drink and eat the most biggest strains are holy grail sfv. And blue dream

tommyy said:

wow 650 ppm. Full flower I cant even pass 300 ppm anymore and the plants are 3 times
the size of those. I think the bennies make nutrient more available. I have no idea anything higher nitrogen tox
and nute burn.

Click to expand...

I'm on week 5 and at 1000 ppm they don't seem to like it Any higher then that mabey with out the tea but they love that stuff

Correct.[/QUOTE]
Hey I have a question I'm running a dwc with advances pH perfect my ph keeps going down I recently cut out 3 plants do to overcrowding I left a lot of the removed plants roots behind in a tangled mess 5 days later and my oh is droping as if I have root rot been using a tea once a week going to have to switch to every three days till end of have at have less then 4 weeks left can I multiply the bennies in hydroguard if added to tea the new hydroguard has a diff strain from which you stated don't see any signs of rot of my plants in there running full streanght gysroguars and tea 1100 ppm advanced all the extras mabey its the senzyme feeding the rot?

With the dropping ph I'd say it's indicating your old roots from the plants you removed are rotting.
The enzyme is breaking down the roots and turning it into organic matter, which is fine only if you're running bennies. This would be horrible in a sterile environment. I'd stop the whole enzyme and hydroguard and just use a mycogrow powder brewed tea. It'll cover both those products better at a much better price.
You can brew a tea from hydroguard, but it won't be very diverse. It'd be better to brew it with a pinch of"general organics ancient forest (Alaska humus)".. You'll get a much more diverse tea. I think mycogrow powder works great brewed as a tea, it's cleaner looking in the end. If you have stuff that can clog best to use that. If it's just a bubbling dwc bucket, humus is good.
If you're using mycogrow or humus.. No need to add anything else such as hydroguard or an enzyme product.. It's redundant and just costing extra money.

Ya I noticed that hydro guard only contains 1 type of baccis now I use A E in my tea with a scoop of plant success witch seems to have kept everything healthy it stains the roots brow kept scaring the crap out ta me but after the 3rd time rinsing it off and seeing pearly white roots I realized it was prob the fungi the poweder its self is brown as well I also use a ewc compost dirt in it that my gram started about 5 years back got lots of goodies in there no signs of rot on the plants themselves next run I'm going to do with out the hydroguard and see how it goes in veg for a bit longest month of my life these buds are starting to look real nice

sidewing said:

With the dropping ph I'd say it's indicating your old roots from the plants you removed are rotting.
The enzyme is breaking down the roots and turning it into organic matter, which is fine only if you're running bennies. This would be horrible in a sterile environment. I'd stop the whole enzyme and hydroguard and just use a mycogrow powder brewed tea. It'll cover both those products better at a much better price.
You can brew a tea from hydroguard, but it won't be very diverse. It'd be better to brew it with a pinch of"general organics ancient forest (Alaska humus)".. You'll get a much more diverse tea. I think mycogrow powder works great brewed as a tea, it's cleaner looking in the end. If you have stuff that can clog best to use that. If it's just a bubbling dwc bucket, humus is good.
If you're using mycogrow or humus.. No need to add anything else such as hydroguard or an enzyme product.. It's redundant and just costing extra money.

Click to expand...

Thanks man deff appreciate the info think all Weill be good now

Week 5 day 6 dwc 1200 ppm AN with extras holy grail anyone grown this strain just seeing if they look on track this is my first run with any OG hers good things the smell is insane almost a musky pine sent coverd in trichs already

Don't waste money on fraudulent products. Advanced Nutrients microbe products contain nothing they promise. Spend your money on EWC or soil amendments like ancient forest, or buy powder straight from the lab, like http://www.fungi.com/product-detail/product/mycogrow-soluble-1-oz.html

http://odanews.wpengine.com/oda-finds-big-problems-with-little-organisms/

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0248/9641/files/micro_2015_BP.pdf?15137823218845692785

I've herd this from a few people I've had great luck with your tea easy and cheap

Is this suitable to make ewc tea? http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/cil-plus-worm-casting-compost-12-5-kg-0594554p.html

The link wants me to put info so I gave up, but if it's just earth worm castings it'll be fine. You'd get more diversity using Alaska humus/ancient forest. But if that's all you can get it'll be ok.

In my opinion Alaska humus should be used in all circumstances unless you need a clean tea (no chunks of matter).. Being in like an aero setup where sprayer heads can clog. Then you use the mycogrow soluble powder... Which is what I use cause I have it. But I've experimented with both and they both work well. The Alaska humus will coat your roots slightly, possibly looking like rot.. but if you rinse them off, strong pearly white roots under.

You're looking for the most diversity of bacteria, then brewing a tea to multiply those numbers. This tea is simply aact tea, used in a hydro setting, where traditionally it's used in soil to help break down the organic matter.

Any broken down compost will work.. Alaska humus is just known to have the most diversity of bacteria.

When I turn the air pump off for a few minutes a day everything settles the water is clear enough that I can see bits of earth on the bottom of the bucket. Does that mean it didn't brew properly? Should the water appear more murky?