DWC Solar Storm 440 LED X 2 First grow(Comments Welcome)

horribleherk

Well-Known Member
Awesome! Ive enjoyed your thread @JohnDoeTho. I also just harvested my first led/dwc.

I know how you feel when the power goes out. I went to Walmart and bought some battery powered (D) air pumps from the fishing department so I'll be prepared next time.

Just a cheap suggestion.
Thanks for sharing bro :)
Great work
don't hurt to have an extra especially if you use live bait lol
 

JohnDoeTho

Well-Known Member
Day 39 Flower

So not my motive to mislead anyone. I haven't done a full bucket swap in some time. Hasn't been any major problems noticeable with just using peroxide. Doing a full bucket swap and getting a good look at the roots it's clear there's a orangish layer built up on the roots. I put them in a clean empty bucket while cleaning and refilling their home. Their root ball contains lots of water that continues to run into the empty bucket and its not a rather long proccess no more then 15 minutes. After moving her from the empty bucket back to freshly filled home again, there's always an inch or so of water that drains out. It was pretty nasty.

None the less with probably roughly 2 weeks to go I'm sure I'll be fine, I did double up the peroxide dose though. I just don't want anyone thinking switching to peroxide only, in this environment results in pearly white roots. Definetly motivation to get the chiller rolling next round and get some pool shock.
 

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Johnei

Well-Known Member
Really great suggestion about the battery powered pump. Thought I would tell you what I use for this type of thing.
a UPS(Uninteruptable power supply) backup, for computers, can use it exactly as a power bar to plug equip into it and they will run normally, but if power shuts off, without missing a beat, anything plugged into the unit will just continue to run off battery power. for small air or water pumps, the shit could run for hours. smallest one I use was like $50 made by APC company, model is ES500. I use it to plug small cfl bulb into it on same timer as grow light, and if i get power outage and main lights shut down, the cfl holds the cycle. anything plugged into it is surge protected also. It's good sheeit.
 
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Johnei

Well-Known Member
consider that the peroxide will oxidize and fizz away the bad shit, but then the residue of this process leaves shit behind, organic shit, and since peroxide no matter what will disappear in short time turning all back to water, that nasty dead shit could be feeding the little bit left over of bad life and it starts again. idea I'm having.. maybe best at water change is to make a peroxide mix, and lift and drop and lift and drop dipping the roots in this solution first, maybe leave for 30min-1hr or so, then place back into main bucket... also, without changing whole bucket at any time, you can somehow suspend/support plant/roots up so they hang down for you, and mist spray them down with peroxide also, if you feel the need. you get me I know. (I'm really trying these days to write only one-two liners, FAIL! lol)
 

JohnDoeTho

Well-Known Member
Yea I did direct root sprays earlier on. The double dose looks like it at least cleared a bit of it up. And like I said it hasn't presented any real issues yet. I feel confident I can keep it from taking over for the 2 weeks that are left without any real effort. I do add peroxide daily because I've read a couple places the oxygen atom is so unstable it dissapates pretty quickly.
 

Johnei

Well-Known Member
can you give me some specifics real quick about your light again, and colors etc, if you changed sprectrum etc. same light colors whole grow? etc. etc. I'm actually looking very deep into new led tech, and what better model to look at than the results i see here. hook me up bro.

--quite honestly, until now, I was not sold on led tech, you're makin me think.
 

JohnDoeTho

Well-Known Member
Love to, why I went with my light over some others was the 5 watt diodes vs the popular 3 watt. I knew LED had issues with penetration and I figured that would help. With the UVB running it pulls 350watts, without in flower mode 320. The veg mode is around 235 watts. They don't specify spectrum for flower and veg but they advertise deep blue 450nm blue 470nm deep red 665nm red 620nm warm white 430-700nm and UVB 280-315nm. However I'm not versed in some of the new quantum boards and cob lights. I do kind of like their new model of my light where you can customize what spectrum you want.....
 

JohnDoeTho

Well-Known Member
Noticing some leafs getting a little crispy and yellow but I also know it's finishing and could just be trying to deprive nitrogen. Seemed to intensify once I got past the 12inch mark though. I recently tryed seeing how close I could get for this last bit of flower.
 

Johnei

Well-Known Member
Thanks man! How much spread do you think your light can handle, how wide, like what's the point you think you'd need 2 of them at this wattage? any ideas about this.. I'd like to cover a 5x5ish.. or 5x4ish area and still have serious penetration, I usually grow more short fatties than tall, so led's should be ok for me. Thanks!
 

JohnDoeTho

Well-Known Member
Thanks man! How much spread do you think your light can handle, how wide, like what's the point you think you'd need 2 of them at this wattage? any ideas about this.. I'd like to cover a 5x5ish.. or 5x4ish area and still have serious penetration, I usually grow more short fatties than tall, so led's should be ok for me. Thanks!
Short fattys and even canopy I think are pretty beneficial when it comes to led. It can definetly travel some distance on a short fat one as my lower nugs don't seem to have sacrificed much density or fatness. But I've also defoliated regularly.
 

JohnDoeTho

Well-Known Member
I don't think one light would handle that size well for flowering. They will be a higher upfront cost but should more then equal out with life expectancy and reduced electrical
Cost. They are also supposed to perform close to peak until end of life.
 
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