Ec rising IN RESERVOIR

try_hard

Member
They all get worse. Ec rose from yesterday 1200 to about 1500 now.
Today I'll make a reservoir change and use h2o2. pH rose from 5.8-5.9 to 6.1-6.2 today.

Does this maybe look like pests? Should i go full sterile and go for base EC of 1200?
 

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Wastei

Well-Known Member
Hydroguard would do wonders for you if you can still find it.
Are you 100% sure you don't have light leaks in your reservoir?
Hydroguard is way diluted compared to Southern AG garden friendly fungicide. They both contain bacillus amyloliquefaciens. Southern AG is 98% concentrated if I remember correctly and people have great results with that.

I'm on the sterile route though with regular bleach(sodium hypochlorite). 3-5ppm is recommended for DWC. Here's the dilution calculator: Chlorine dilution calculator

Oxidizers are easier to use without a chiller IMO but people have success with Southern AG without it. Bigger water volumes and keeping the reservoir outside of the grow space helps to keep temps down.
 
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Hydroguard is way diluted compared to Southern AG garden friendly fungicide. They both contain bacillus amyloliquefaciens. Southern AG is 98% concentrated if I remember correctly. People have great results with what.

I'm on the sterile route though with regular bleach(sodium hypochlorite). 3-5ppm is recommended for DWC. Here's the dilution calculator: Chlorine dilution calculator

Oxidizers are easier to use without a chiller IMO but people have success with Southern AG without it. Bigger water volumes and keeping the reservoir outside of the grow space helps to keep temps down.

Listen to this dude, he knows his hydro, like I said I grew hydro some years ago before moving to 100% organic but I never heard of using oxidizers, sounds very interesting indeed.
 

try_hard

Member
Hydroguard is way diluted compared to Southern AG garden friendly fungicide. They both contain bacillus amyloliquefaciens. Southern AG is 98% concentrated if I remember correctly and people have great results with that.

I'm on the sterile route though with regular bleach(sodium hypochlorite). 3-5ppm is recommended for DWC. Here's the dilution calculator: Chlorine dilution calculator

Oxidizers are easier to use without a chiller IMO but people have success with Southern AG without it. Bigger water volumes and keeping the reservoir outside of the grow space helps to keep temps down.
Ok thank you.

So are you all indicating that I have most likely root problems?

Water temps as mentioned are between 16 and 18°C. Is this about right?

I have a plant friendly disinfectant Purolyt which also has hypchlorous acid (like sodium hypochlorite) as its active ingredient. Should I add this to the water regularly? I also have an ORP sensor and could keep the levels steady if that's necessary.
 
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try_hard

Member
@Wastei
Just checked and great white contains bacillus amyloliquefaciens. According to their labeling equal parts as the other bacillus genera in there. Currently I use a bit less than a teaspoon per 10L.
 

Wastei

Well-Known Member
@Wastei
Just checked and great white contains bacillus amyloliquefaciens. According to their labeling equal parts as the other bacillus genera in there. Currently I use a bit less than a teaspoon per 10L.
Yes it probably does but you don't really want them to combat for space. Inoculants are only used to keep things clean in hydro, nothing else. People do use Great White in hydro but there's just as many experiencing problems. Can't say the same for Southern AG GFF. Never heard a bad thing about them.
 

Wastei

Well-Known Member
Ok thank you.

So are you all indicating that I have most likely root problems?

Water temps as mentioned are between 16 and 18°C. Is this about right?

I have a plant friendly disinfectant Purolyt which also has hypchlorous acid (like sodium hypochlorite) as its active ingredient. Should I add this to the water regularly? I also have an ORP sensor and could keep the levels steady if that's necessary.
You have to add that almost every day since hypochlorous acid only has a half life of a couple of hours compared to sodium hypochlorite with about 72-96h depending on water temp and plant count. I add bleach about every 3-4 day.
 

try_hard

Member
You have to add that almost every day since hypochlorous acid only has a half life of a couple of hours compared to sodium hypochlorite with about 72-96h depending on water temp and plant count. I add bleach about every 3-4 day.
Ok thanks. Then my current approach is to use purolyt today (probably 4ml/L in reservoir) until I get to chance to buy sodium hypochlorite tomorrow.
Should I buy NaOCl in dry form from a pharma store or use a standard bleach product from my supermarket?
 

Wastei

Well-Known Member
Ok thanks. Then my current approach is to use purolyt today (probably 4ml/L in reservoir) until I get to chance to buy sodium hypochlorite tomorrow.
Should I buy NaOCl in dry form from a pharma store or use a standard bleach product from my supermarket?
Standard unscented bleach works well. Easier to use since you got the concentration on the label.
 

try_hard

Member
Standard unscented bleach works well. Easier to use since you got the concentration on the label.
Ok thanks. Since I don't have a DWC but a recirculating top feed rinse system, should I still use the same concentration as you do? And on another note, do you suggest switching to RDWC in general?
 

Wastei

Well-Known Member
Haven't seen the roots but it's the most common problem and by the looks of it it's probably the case. Do you calibrate your pH pen every week on a set date?

With a complete plant food at ~1.0 EC it's almost impossible to get deficiency in DWC in veg, something else is off.
 

Bucsfan80

Well-Known Member
I'm gonna throw my one cent in and say from personal tribulations that if your roots/rez have any light at all, direct or indirect your gonna have issues.
 

Wastei

Well-Known Member
I'm gonna throw my one cent in and say from personal tribulations that if your roots/rez have any light at all, direct or indirect your gonna have issues.
I don't think that's such a big of a problem. He wouldn't have this much issues early on but may experience problems further along the grow.
 

try_hard

Member
Haven't seen the roots but it's the most common problem and by the looks of it it's probably the case. Do you calibrate your pH pen every week on a set date?

With a complete plant food at ~1.0 EC it's almost impossible to get deficiency in DWC in veg, something else is off.
I mean I don't have a DWC but top fed clay pebbles without any stagnant water. Just draining through. So I don't know if 1.0 is my target but independent of the EC I set, it won't stay there but rise pretty quickly. I hope it will stop after bleach tomorrow when rez changing.

Regarding light in rez; what can I do to block light from the tub drainage? I covered the part of the tub with pool foil. The lid on the Rez has small leaks, otherwise I would have to drill holes for sensors, pumps etc which would make it pretty hard to clean and empty the rez with cables running through drilled holes that seal tight.
 

Bucsfan80

Well-Known Member
I mean I don't have a DWC but top fed clay pebbles without any stagnant water. Just draining through. So I don't know if 1.0 is my target but independent of the EC I set, it won't stay there but rise pretty quickly. I hope it will stop after bleach tomorrow when rez changing.

Regarding light in rez; what can I do to block light from the tub drainage? I covered the part of the tub with pool foil. The lid on the Rez has small leaks, otherwise I would have to drill holes for sensors, pumps etc which would make it pretty hard to clean and empty the rez with cables running through drilled holes that seal tight.
Yeah I understand what you mean about sealing it up light tight is a pain on the ass. I would make it a priority cause if it's not your problem now it will eventually cause issues you don't want. Think outside the box and you'll get it. Besides a salt build up I'm not sure what would cause ec to rise like that. Have you flushed your medium?
 
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