Electrical service upgrade

Kdn

Member
Here is one of my subpanel breakouts, its a bit messy in the picture but I have cleaned it up a little bit. The thing hanging on the lower right is an arduino which controls everything, the pcbs in the boxes are relays. I have redesigned most of my stuff since this picture and should prolly get some newer ones but its pretty much the same.
subpanel1.jpg
 

legallyflying

Well-Known Member
Here is one of my subpanel breakouts, its a bit messy in the picture but I have cleaned it up a little bit. The thing hanging on the lower right is an arduino which controls everything, the pcbs in the boxes are relays. I have redesigned most of my stuff since this picture and should prolly get some newer ones but its pretty much the same.
View attachment 1700852
Couldn't spend $1.50 on outlet covers? LOL
 

mrmadcow

Well-Known Member
....the only thing about my "all in one plug" setup is that its technically not to code because you have an exposed wire that has like 10-20 amps flowing through it......
only problem w/ doing any electric work that is not to code is your homeowners insurance will screw you in the event of a fire. same goes for making your own remote ballast or a hood,if it isnt UL rated, they will screw you. a buddy had his garage burn last fall & until he could produce reciepts for all the equipment & work done, they were only offering 1/2 of what the final payout came to.his father has an electric license to show work was done properly & he had reciepts for 6 600 watt ballasts w/ hoods ( local grow shop reprinted for him).ever tho the fire investigator determined the fire was caused by a car in the garage,they claimed all the wiring/fixtures in the illegal grow were not up to code & could have contributed to the fire. his lawyer told him he could win but it would take a yr or more & cost $$$$. -just a game(played by insurance co) to withhold payments because as long as they sit on the money, they collect interest.
 

tet1953

Well-Known Member
Hey legallyflying, what's the rating on your 220 timers where amps are concerned? I was looking at the specs on mine and I thought it was more. They are Titan Apollo 11 digital timers, rated for 10 amps. Thought they were at least 15. If my math is correct, my 3200w per room is drawing about 15 amps. So, while the 20 amp circuit and wiring are sufficient for each room, the timers might be a weak point.

Edit: Oh, and the timers also say ballast should not exceed 1000w.

I'll keep an eye on them, but if I need to split my 220 outlet into two with each of them supporting a timer with only 1600w it is not a big deal. Maybe $50 (including timers) and a half hour of work. And I'll sleep better :)
 

legallyflying

Well-Known Member
Yeah, they are 10 amps each. I thought the same thing but my timers look different than yours. Im running 1800 watts through each of mine. Your kind of pushing it. If they are not hot then I wouldn't worry to much. Although waking up in fire should generally be avoided, you should prob replace them. A pool or spa timer would handle your loads. My buddy is running 19k watts and has them set up on 5 pool timers.
 

tet1953

Well-Known Member
I am thinking I can just split the line where I have the 220 outlet...have two of those and two timers (for each room). It's an easy change with just a bit more hardware. Ima do that.
 
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