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will yarn work as a screen? chicken wire seems to be the consensus but i havent heard an explanation. yarn doesnt corrode... bad choice?
 
Forget the chicken wire. The best is white cotton string. It's cheap, can be streached up down or sideways, retied, replaced, doesn't corrode, cut, abrade the stems, and at the end simply cut and thrown away.
 
Soft materials are not quite as friendly as you may think. String can retain moisture and create rot. Most all materials will work however, plastic and non-corrosive surfaces tend to work best. There is endless possibilities and materials to choose from. You can purchase string/twine brands that are made for garden use if you enjoy creating your screen, they even come in green and are least likely to rot.
 
Anyone doing scrog with individual screens over individual buckets? Lets see some pics! I will be doing and ebb and flow in veg and transplanting into an ebb and grow setup in flower. I am unsure how I will be able to scrog in veg when I have to transplant into individual buckets. Any info on this would be greatly appreciated!
 
1 plant in 5 gallon pot FFOF soil, House and Garden Nutes. Lighthouse Hydroponics 300 watt LED light. Small growbox from pcgrowbox.com.
 

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Looking good sleezy. what strain is that, how long will you let it go? i would keep on eye on that nute burn you have going and make sure it doesn't proegress from there. what ph do you feed with?
 
Here's Super Silver haze on the left at about 4 or 5 weeks, it will go 11. And on the right we have UDubb at about 3 weeks. The UDubb is catching up! I can't believe the flower production of these two. I just got done doing the same exact two in flower and now I get to try them out on the hydro tables. So far it looks like the buds will be much larger (They were a bit rootbound when i had them in dirt, same nutes though). The Udubb sure took to the LST'ing very very well, it required little training and has a nice even canopy. and the haze was alright, although a bit out of control, but as woodsmantoker mentioned before, the one-cola dominant type plants tend to be tougher to control. I definitely agree.

The final pic is a bit of shiskaberry i have in dirt off to the side, its an amazing strain, I can't wait to get it on a hydro tyble. Enjoy fellow ScrOG'ers :peace:

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Looking good sleezy. what strain is that, how long will you let it go? i would keep on eye on that nute burn you have going and make sure it doesn't proegress from there. what ph do you feed with?

That is Fire OG kush. I just checked the trichs and I see amber already. I was planning to go the full 60, but maybe might cut it short. I started feeding my girl Shooting powder from House and Garden, and from my experience that is what happens to those leaves. I feed at a ph of 5.8
 
Yo sleezy, you're seeing amber trichs already? to me those buds look like they have a bit to go yet. I asked what your ph was because i noticed a lot of the leaves are kind of mis-formed and twisted, form my experience this is usually caused by the ph being to low. If you are growing in soil I'd recommend feeding at 6.5-7.0. Have you ph'd your runoff after feeding?
 
I posted a few weeks back when I build my Scrog screen and figured I would show you an update, now that I am in flowering. I turned the lights to 12/12 15 days ago and all 3 strains are showing lots of tops and bud development... The Blue Dragon's in the middle were excellent for the SCrog, however my University Hill's OG (left) seems too lanky for a good scrog effort, still managed to get it to form many tops...

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how much wattage do you have over the icemud and im a little confused on the difference between pictures are those all the same setup? all in all it looks great what is the deal with the elevated sides and stuff any significance? Also I was examining the tops that are sticking out a bit above the screen would you say that there is a certain height in where you determine that the top is "unscrogable" like you just know it would break if you continued so you let it stretch out and take your loss or is it done on purpose.
 
I posted a few weeks back when I build my Scrog screen and figured I would show you an update, now that I am in flowering. I turned the lights to 12/12 15 days ago and all 3 strains are showing lots of tops and bud development... The Blue Dragon's in the middle were excellent for the SCrog, however my University Hill's OG (left) seems too lanky for a good scrog effort, still managed to get it to form many tops...

Looking great Icemud! What is your screen size?
 
how much wattage do you have over the icemud and im a little confused on the difference between pictures are those all the same setup? all in all it looks great what is the deal with the elevated sides and stuff any significance? Also I was examining the tops that are sticking out a bit above the screen would you say that there is a certain height in where you determine that the top is "unscrogable" like you just know it would break if you continued so you let it stretch out and take your loss or is it done on purpose.

Hey Dapio...thanks for checkin out my Scrog...I am running 1000w (1 400w MH and 1 600w HPS). Originally I started with just the 400w HPS but about week 3 of veg I added the 600w HPS. The significance of the elevated sides was for 2 reasons....1st It gave me more surface area to work with the plants in. The other reason was a little more scientific. Since I am growing in a 28"x58x78" tent, the use of 2 lights was almost necessary to cover the 5' width of the tent. Now due to the square inverse law...for ever distance the light is moved away, the light intensity is reduced by 1/4. So by bringing the sides of My scrog screen up, I am bringing the plants closer to the light source which brings much more intensity to the plants...

As far as your other question, For the most part the plants were very scroggable, especially the blue dragon in the middle, however, the University Hill's OG's (left side of tent) upon flower really went thru a very dramatic stretch, with very lanky stems and long, (about 1') distance between internodes....Not a scrog friendly plant....I actually did break a few very nice tops on the University Hill's OG trying to train it thru the early pre-flowering....so I just left it be at that point.... Next time I do a scrog, I will do more research on the genetic traits of the plant....or just do 1 strain...will be much easier...
 

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Via http://www.gwpharm.com/

Cannabinoid Compounds



Phytocannabinoids, Endocannabinoids and Synthetic Cannabinoids

The term "cannabinoid" has different meanings. Cannabinoids were originally defined as a group of C21 compounds uniquely produced by the cannabis plant. Subsequent development of synthetic cannabinoids and the discovery of natural cannabinoids in the body (“endocannabinoids”) has somewhat blurred this definition. The molecules derived from the plant itself are therefore now termed “phytocannabinoids”. Synthetic cannabinoids are those which have been man-made.

Phytocannabinoid Compounds



Naturally occurring cannabis (Cannabis sativa) contains a group of chemical compounds not found in other plants known as cannabinoids. Over 60 different cannabinoids have so far been identified but the role and importance of many of these has yet to be fully understood. GW is researching a large number of cannabinoids, each of which has different effects and applications.


molecules%5B0%5D.jpg

GW has unique access to an extensive library of “phytocannabinoids” through the breeding of unique “chemotypes” (plants characterised by their chemical content). Currently available cannabinoids include:



  • D9-THC (Delta-9 Tetrahydrocannabinol)


  • D8-THC (Delta-8 Tetrahydrocannabinol)


  • THCA (Tetrahydrocannabinol – Acid)


  • THCV (Tetrahydrocannabivarin)


  • THCVA (Tetrahydrocannabivarin – Acid)


  • CBD (Cannabidiol)


  • CBDA (Cannabidiol - Acid)


  • CBDV (Cannabidivarin)

  • CBDVA (Cannabidivarin - Acid)


  • CBC (Cannabichromene)


  • CBG (Cannabigerol)


  • CBGA (Cannabigerol – Acid)


  • CBGV (Cannabigerovarin)


  • CBN (Cannabinol)


  • CBNV (Cannabinovarin)


Of the cannabinoids listed above, only two cannabinoids have to date been well characterized – THC and CBD. Both THC and CBD have important pharmacology: THC has analgesic, anti-spasmodic, anti-tremor, anti-inflammatory, appetite stimulant and anti-emetic properties, whilst CBD has anti-inflammatory, anti-convulsant, anti-psychotic, anti-oxidant, neuroprotective and immunomodulatory effects. CBD is not intoxicating and indeed it has been postulated that the presence of CBD in cannabis may alleviate some of the potentially unwanted side-effects of THC. There is currently limited scientific information on the pharmacology and toxicology of the other cannabinoids. Cannabinoids are believed to be effective in suppressing muscle spasticity, spasms, bladder dysfunction and pain symptoms of MS.

GW believes that the beneficial therapeutic effects of cannabis derived medicines result from the interaction of different cannabinoids, hence GW's medicines consist of cannabinoids in different ratios. In addition GW believes that other components within the plant may also play a useful role.

Natural Cannabinoids (endocannabinoids)


The discovery of the cannabinoid receptors led to the demonstration of the existence of the body’s own natural cannabinoids (endocannabinoids), the most important of which are arachidonoyl-ethanolamide (anandamide), 2-arachidonoyl glycerol (2-AG) and arachidonyl glyceryl ether (noladin ether). This remains a highly dynamic field. There is evidence that anandamide can serve as a neuromodulator or neurotransmitter on its own or in conjunction with inactive precursors in what has been dubbed the “entourage effect”.
 

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