Almost for sure imho that it is just a packaging change. The older versions of the 9.5w's, were 1U100 not "2".I checked that, too, and both have the same serial number (BA19-08050OMF-12DE26-2U100) and UPC codes!
They made a funky "true white" blue bulb that had the lense coated blue to give it a higher CRI, like 93+, but they were expensive too....Also not sure what the High CRI is, but these were just the basic 60w equivalent Daylight bulbs
You don't want the high CRI,the added spectrum makes things look better to the human eye but won't help plant growth.
The added spectrum is green and yellow,won't give you much bang for your buck.
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DAT PURPLE LINE OMG...You have it backwards. The higher the cri the more even the spectral distribution. That's why hps has 35 cri and cmh has 93 cri. 80 cri has more wasted light than 90 cri. High cri doesn't mean just more added green and yellow. That would lower the cri. Higher cri means all wave lengths are more equal in intensity. ie even spectral distribution
Notice how the 80 cri has more 580 nm than the 93 cri. the 93 cri peaks are broader than the 80 cri.
Notice how much more the 93 CRI has between 480 and 580.
And anything beats HPS's spectral graph.
more blue in the high CRI... better for veg than the others. Maybe worth it so you don't need dedicated veg lamps to avoid the red-heavy stretching? (plus there's more "far red" in the "purple line"...)I don't think the added cost of high CRI LED's is worth it. Another words the added spectrum won't add much vs a high bin 3070 80 CRI,if money is no object you can also add larger heatsinks to add efficiency and buy high efficiency drivers. Not much bang for the buck with that set up tho.
Hey Captain, I had an idea I wanted to run by you. I've seen people disassemble these Cree bulbs and make their own flat panels out of the innards. I haven't really seen the insides of my bulbs yet, but what do you think of this idea: Say I take the glass domes off all the bulbs and unravel that diode pillar so it's just a flat piece, but keep all the components inside the base still. Not sure if this would work, but thought it might be a good way to get all the diodes on a flat plane. I don't think the metal pillars should touch one another, though. I'm also not sure if I would need to add any additional lenses or anything like that, as far as light dispersal goes. Or if the build will even allow that..(just to alert you)