Two weeks since I started the treatments mentioned in the last post things are actually looking great! No more dark spots, rust, wilt, or yellowing leaf death. New growth is lush and vigorous. My plants haven't looked this good in months! A few things that may be worth noting: I initiated the treatments stated at an early stage of infection, and this probably would not have worked had the infestation become more advanced. You will have to kill your plants if they are showing signs of infection everywhere from bottom to top. Also, some varieties may respond better to this treatment than others. Additionally I am not claiming that I have completely wiped out the problem. Fungus and mold spores are everywhere, and it is probably good methodology to treat plants (and the medium they are in) right from the start, before symptoms ever show up. You need to spend a little extra money and time to do it, but it's worth it in the long run. Soak pots, tools, soil, seedlings and cuttings in the appropriate concentrations of Physan 20 before planting. After 3-5 days inocculate growing medium and leaves with Actinovate, and possibly re-innoculate again after a few weeks. Every 7-10 days foliar feed with Drammatic K, and apply Safers fungicide spray every 2 weeks or so (before flowers develop). I hope this helps a few people. Be pro-active and proceed as though your plants are infected even if you don't see any problems. And, above all.....NEVER give up.
Fusarium, My Experience
- Thread starter hampster
- Start date
vasodiletante
Member
Hello all,
I'm unburying this topic because i think it is of profound interest and utility for every grower.
I hope Hampster will read my post one day so we can discuss his problem further on, since i'm having the same.
After some research, I found some sources which stated that massive spread of fusarium wilt and other disease causing fungus was prone to happen in artificial environments like a growroom, or even a potted plant. In other words, soil fungi that caused problems only exist freely because the soils we use are most times sterilized or lack the beneficial bacteria and other fungi that compete with the others, thus creating balance and minimizing plant damage.
I found an article that stated the following: Using compost material and full organic soils will help minimize the damage from fusarium wilt and control its population.
Since all my crops, not only cannabis but other plants like aromatics and mint, have been doomed by this fungus, i'm changing all the way I do things, and i'll start by making a compost pile and in the long-term, maybe dive into a more sustainable and less susceptible grow system.
Cheers
I'm unburying this topic because i think it is of profound interest and utility for every grower.
I hope Hampster will read my post one day so we can discuss his problem further on, since i'm having the same.
After some research, I found some sources which stated that massive spread of fusarium wilt and other disease causing fungus was prone to happen in artificial environments like a growroom, or even a potted plant. In other words, soil fungi that caused problems only exist freely because the soils we use are most times sterilized or lack the beneficial bacteria and other fungi that compete with the others, thus creating balance and minimizing plant damage.
I found an article that stated the following: Using compost material and full organic soils will help minimize the damage from fusarium wilt and control its population.
Since all my crops, not only cannabis but other plants like aromatics and mint, have been doomed by this fungus, i'm changing all the way I do things, and i'll start by making a compost pile and in the long-term, maybe dive into a more sustainable and less susceptible grow system.
Cheers
sydarko
Member
its an old thread, but when dealing with a fungi, oomycetes to be exact, no thread is too old, you wrote you're last post 2&half years ago, i hope you won the battle along that time, but dealing with it myself, i know its not since fiction if you have not..I'm one & half year into my war, ILL NEVER GIVE UP , giving solo trichoderma huzarium a chance, as other dead beneficial can serve as a food for oomycetes.
fighters make a noise.
Kingrow1
Well-Known Member
Im not sure how relevant fusarium and vert. wilt are for marijuana but if your finding your getting pathogen problems you simply need to adjust your environment and stop promoting it. Adding mycos to soil is pretty useless as most soils are full of trichoderma and other stuff, again the right conditions will allow soil to flourish.
Posting on old posts is generally considered bad practice but welcome and enjoy, just access the forum from your home page and threads will be in date order so you can stay current. Surfing google will just troll up old threads normally. Youll get more priveledges as you start posting and then you can make your own threads, good luck
sydarko
Member
no fence but, telling someone he should just "adjust he's environment" in order to fight an oomycete\fungi is like telling a cancer patient to take aspirin, fusarium and verticillium and others, are monsters, once you got an outbreak its a totally different game, not relevant ? well, i still didn't 100% identify my pathogen but all signs tell me its a fusarium infection, btw yes, trichoderma by it self seem to lost to fusarium, as my alfalfa & broccoli sprouts who popped today seems to be infected.Im not sure how relevant fusarium and vert. wilt are for marijuana but if your finding your getting pathogen problems you simply need to adjust your environment and stop promoting it. Adding mycos to soil is pretty useless as most soils are full of trichoderma and other stuff, again the right conditions will allow soil to flourish.
Posting on old posts is generally considered bad practice but welcome and enjoy, just access the forum from your home page and threads will be in date order so you can stay current. Surfing google will just troll up old threads normally. Youll get more priveledges as you start posting and then you can make your own threads, good luck
thanks for posting !
sydarko
Member
btw my setup is sealed room with a total climent control, small but very hi teach room.Im not sure how relevant fusarium and vert. wilt are for marijuana but if your finding your getting pathogen problems you simply need to adjust your environment and stop promoting it. Adding mycos to soil is pretty useless as most soils are full of trichoderma and other stuff, again the right conditions will allow soil to flourish.
Posting on old posts is generally considered bad practice but welcome and enjoy, just access the forum from your home page and threads will be in date order so you can stay current. Surfing google will just troll up old threads normally. Youll get more priveledges as you start posting and then you can make your own threads, good luck
Kingrow1
Well-Known Member
These things are in most soils worldwide, you cannot avoid them just protect against them. The advice is to burn affected plants and create an environment that dosent promote its reaffection, there is no cure...
Kingrow1
Well-Known Member
Pictures of the infection? Weed is a very resilliant plant...
sydarko
Member
Im not sure how relevant fusarium and vert. wilt are for marijuana but if your finding your getting pathogen problems you simply need to adjust your environment and stop promoting it. Adding mycos to soil is pretty useless as most soils are full of trichoderma and other stuff, again the right conditions will allow soil to flourish.
Posting on old posts is generally considered bad practice but welcome and enjoy, just access the forum from your home page and threads will be in date order so you can stay current. Surfing google will just troll up old threads normally. Youll get more priveledges as you start posting and then you can make your own threads, good luck
i actually ran out of cannabis seeds and practicing on broccoli and alfalfa, the infection is not only on the host but also in the soil\medium, so my search now is for establishing a good colony or solo "good" fungi before the pathogen take holds, starting from seeds, my problem for this whole year and a half was damping off and struggling starts of seeds that did kinda grow, in a dead slow steps, i can list a number of approaches i made, including chemicals such as ridomill. phaysan 20. acrobat. bliss. tried the sterile approach also with base nuts in their basic form(no brand nuts is suitable with chlorine) so i could keep an ORP of 700+ with chlorine, it worked keeping the rdwc system clean, but again seeds got it from the beginning so fighting the environment after infection is idiotic, embarrassing to say how long it took me to spot this one on :/ .
just ordered great white, go biowar, mykos, actinovate. who knows.
tried brewing teas and it seems to make the pathogen explode, tried brew it less, tried more, with this and with that.
i all ready have great white, i think i had a partial success with it, ill give it another go, ill try establish the colony outside of the room, downstairs, before putting it in the room and plant the seeds, have an ozone generatore on the way, got a sealed room so ill nuke it for a few days when its here.
ill get some pictures soon, only have a small struggling lady and lots of broccoli and alfalfa sprouts.
Last edited:
sydarko
Member
Kingrow1
Well-Known Member
Maybe Nasa could make a sterile grow room but we mere humans cant, fungi and pathogens are every where from soil to air and globally. I can guarantee there will be some nasty stuff in my soil but if its not being cultured with the right environment it never gets hold. A simple analogy would be dampening off from rhizotonica or similar, you only see it when you over water or the humidity is stupidly high, until then it just sits in the soil minding its own business.
Pictures are needed and then maybe a fresh thread so you can start getting advice
sydarko
Member
yes, and i did suspected it as a my source, but more probably my water supply.
sydarko
Member
ok, almost one year has past since my last post, i haven't bin on it all that time, its around 3 years since the war has started and fusarium still hold the line, at the moment i am in a environmental and personal growing behaviour reform, 90% of equipment thrown to garbage, as well as many other personal belongings and "stuff" i got, the whole house is about disinfect in a VERY sufficient way (99%) TWICE with EVERYTHING i own in it, so as the car, if i could id leave my two cats inside the house while doing it but i lovem alive.
the room will be totally empty when planting, nothing unneeded stays, any tool come in contact with the new clones and their soil will be new, in fact, all ill need from my old equipment is a light source, not even the ac will work, no blowers, nothing other then a bold reflector and ballast which will be sterilised a few times, with the whole house and alone, beside that, ill have a few new biocontrol agents and chems agents, ill do 11 clones each with his own mixture, ill be having:
bios:
root shield
mycostop
actinovate
serenade(cease)
companion
prestop
and one with all together
chems:
folicur (tebuconazole)
scholar 230sc (fluidioxonil)
sportak (prochloraz)
chems are going all together in two doses
another clone with low dose chems + all bios
another clone with no chems nor bios, only water and nuts
coco coir perlight 50/50
if this fail, I'm throwing the white towel, will update in a week or two, wish me luck, ill need it.
the room will be totally empty when planting, nothing unneeded stays, any tool come in contact with the new clones and their soil will be new, in fact, all ill need from my old equipment is a light source, not even the ac will work, no blowers, nothing other then a bold reflector and ballast which will be sterilised a few times, with the whole house and alone, beside that, ill have a few new biocontrol agents and chems agents, ill do 11 clones each with his own mixture, ill be having:
bios:
root shield
mycostop
actinovate
serenade(cease)
companion
prestop
and one with all together
chems:
folicur (tebuconazole)
scholar 230sc (fluidioxonil)
sportak (prochloraz)
chems are going all together in two doses
another clone with low dose chems + all bios
another clone with no chems nor bios, only water and nuts
coco coir perlight 50/50
if this fail, I'm throwing the white towel, will update in a week or two, wish me luck, ill need it.
vostok
Well-Known Member
on this whole thread their is not ..nor has
there ever been enough evidence to
suggest you guys have ever had Fusarium wilt
the biggy is
1: the swollen stems
2: cracking in the stems
3: split stems
above all
RED ROOTS the fungi infection itself
to many noobs the symptoms are the same as excess nutes
yellowing of leaves and all the other dribble posted above
Good Luck & Chill
there ever been enough evidence to
suggest you guys have ever had Fusarium wilt
the biggy is
1: the swollen stems
2: cracking in the stems
3: split stems
above all
RED ROOTS the fungi infection itself
to many noobs the symptoms are the same as excess nutes
yellowing of leaves and all the other dribble posted above
Good Luck & Chill
sydarko
Member
had all symptoms you mentioned and more- only one branch wilting, tops of branches looks "scrambled" sometimes, radish roots and stem, i know fusarium symptoms, wish i haven't.
got things running slow, clones arriving this coming week.
car died from my disinfectant practice
70-80 % of my clothing
lots of thing damaged in the house, including two ac units
update soon
stickyicky_247
Active Member
I just sent samples to be tested for what i believe is this curse. Any luck? Ive got microshots of the fruit bodies ad mycellium but it's too hard to identify without a good microscope. I've done my fair share of reading on Fusarium,Verticilium,and the other nasties... i've got my theories bout its history but ill save the typing for when interest is shown. Hows everything looking? And has anyone with these issues tried starting from seed soaked in diluted systemic fungicide? Just another idea i was going to try
fearnoevil
Well-Known Member
I agree that some are being incredibly naive if they think that "just controlling the environment" is the cure-all. There are INDEED pathogens that are extremely tough to get rid of, although I have to admit I've never heard of anything on the scale encountered by the OP (unless it's a regional thing that's crossing over from local vegetation??). Personally I've been battling leaf blight for about 3 years with some decent luck on and off (moreso recently).
One product that helped me a lot was Serenade, an organic spray (btw stinks to high heaven) which utilizes a bacteria called Bacillus Subtillus - I've read studies that show how B. subtillus not only combats certain pathogens but also helps the plants own immune system, "elicits plant responses that trigger your flowers, vegetables and lawns to fight against a broad spectrum of the most common fungal and bacterial garden diseases".
Doing a foliar spray to initially attack any existing spores, FIRST I cut off any affected leaves, then you have to be fairly thorough and wet both sides of every leaf. I start by putting on a pair of nitrile gloves, cuz as I said, this shit stinks, lol. Then put your palm under a leaf, spray on the Serenade, and then use the overspray on your gloved hand to wet the underside. Long painful process but I have had success stopping this fungal infection, but I have always followed up by adding Serenade about once weekly to my nute program (same study showed that somehow being in contact with a plants root system helped boost its own immune system) plus I'll do one or two more applications spaced about 4-5 weeks apart, but not in the last 3 weeks of flower, usually just removing any leaf that looks suspicious.
One product that helped me a lot was Serenade, an organic spray (btw stinks to high heaven) which utilizes a bacteria called Bacillus Subtillus - I've read studies that show how B. subtillus not only combats certain pathogens but also helps the plants own immune system, "elicits plant responses that trigger your flowers, vegetables and lawns to fight against a broad spectrum of the most common fungal and bacterial garden diseases".
Doing a foliar spray to initially attack any existing spores, FIRST I cut off any affected leaves, then you have to be fairly thorough and wet both sides of every leaf. I start by putting on a pair of nitrile gloves, cuz as I said, this shit stinks, lol. Then put your palm under a leaf, spray on the Serenade, and then use the overspray on your gloved hand to wet the underside. Long painful process but I have had success stopping this fungal infection, but I have always followed up by adding Serenade about once weekly to my nute program (same study showed that somehow being in contact with a plants root system helped boost its own immune system) plus I'll do one or two more applications spaced about 4-5 weeks apart, but not in the last 3 weeks of flower, usually just removing any leaf that looks suspicious.
fearnoevil
Well-Known Member
Has anyone had experience fogging a grow room (between grows) with Hydrogen Peroxide in high concentrations? Read that some hospitals are using this technique due to H2o2's ability to kill a wide range of bacteria and fungi including spores due to the oxidizing affect. I'm considering fogging my grow room with either humidifiers or renting/buying a fogger. Any thoughts?