Get a Harvest Every 2 Weeks

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Kaosisglobal

Well-Known Member
Hey Al, I took a bunch of clones a few weeks back and now they've rooted. I however took much smaller clones than you do (didn't have big mothers). They are between 5 and 7 inches tall right now. Do these look ready to go into flowering for SOG? If you have any pics of what your clones look like at day 1 of flowering, I'd be very interested to see them. I've seen your pics of how you clone and also pics at 4-8 weeks flowering, but none between then. Thanks a ton; advice is very much appreciated!
I want to see Als answer, but yeah you can do it. I did. And my clones are flowering. And I know Al has said. No veg time for clones. So you are rooted lets go. I even root in my 12/12 box cause I don't have a dual stage box set up. I am working on my veg chamber now, I just need to buy the lighting, the rest is done. And I need to get the ventialtion done on my flowerin closet and I am good to go.
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
Hey Al, I took a bunch of clones a few weeks back and now they've rooted. I however took much smaller clones than you do (didn't have big mothers). They are between 5 and 7 inches tall right now. Do these look ready to go into flowering for SOG?
Your plants look pretty good, aside from being a little nitrogen and phosphorus deficient- see purpling stems and yellowing lower leaves. Always better to shoot low with ferts than high! The problems I see are fixable.

However, most of your plants have been vegged too long for the SoG method. They look like they have been vegging for several weeks. If these were put in to flower, they would be too tall by the end of wk8.

Not only will overall height be a problem if you don't have a lot of vertical space to work with in your flowering area, but the buds down low on the plant (just above the point where you will have removed all branching) will likely come up sparse and fluffy. Zero veg time post the clones setting root prevents this problem.

Yes, these could be flowered, but they look like they'd be better as mother plants for you, if given a bit of a feed and about 7-10 days under 18-24h HPS (or MH) light.

If you have any pics of what your clones look like at day 1 of flowering, I'd be very interested to see them. I've seen your pics of how you clone and also pics at 4-8 weeks flowering, but none between then. Thanks a ton; advice is very much appreciated!
These pics appear earlier in this thread, but I'll repeat them for your convenience. If you go through the admittedly very long thread, you will find these pics and others.

My clones look like this when they are ready go in to flower:



Clones are not intended to grow vegetatively in my clone box, only be convinced it is daylight for 18+h/day to keep them in veg mode. They are not appreciably larger when they come out of the clonebox as opposed to the day they were cut- low intensity light from fluoros will see to it that they don't grow much.

My plants look like this during flowering:



These are in my tray#1, for plants in wk1-2. Pictured plants have been flowering for 2 weeks. As you see, they gain vertical height really quite quickly even though they are under 12/12 and are eating high P flowering nutes. Plants take about 4 weeks to completely stop gaining vertical height and start packing on the budmass.

Here's tray 2:



This tray houses plants in wks 2-4. Pictured plants are in wk4.

Tray 3:



Tray 3 is for plants in wks 4-6. Pictured plants are in wk6.

Tray 4:



Tray 4 is for plants in wks 6-8. Pictured plants are at wk8, ready to harvest.

To get plants to finish up like this, you must not veg your clones between the time they set root and the time you put them in to flower.

In your case, I'd use a couple of the larger plants as mums and flower the smaller ones right now.

The plants intended as mums should have their mainstems lopped (of course, you'll use those cuttings for clones) and then should be vegged under 18-24h HPS light for about 2 weeks. They will be ready for another pass of cuttings, or will be ready for a maintenance pruning if you don't need more clones at the time.

I presume you're going to do something about the pots of soil... ;)
 

We TaRdED

Well-Known Member
hey al...

sorry for the redundancy, but i dont feel like scavenging through 100 pages to find the answer..

on average, what is one plant yielding dry?

i think you said your harvesting around 2 lbs per tray??? and you have aprox 25 plants per tray???? so 32oz/25=~1.25 oz per plant?:confused:

whats your figures again?

ty :mrgreen: :peace:
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
hey al...

sorry for the redundancy, but i dont feel like scavenging through 100 pages to find the answer..

on average, what is one plant yielding dry?

i think you said your harvesting around 2 lbs per tray??? and you have aprox 25 plants per tray???? so 32oz/25=~1.25 oz per plant?:confused:

whats your figures again?

ty :mrgreen: :peace:
When I wrote the the lead post, I was getting about 13-16z per tray every 2 weeks. The 2lb figure would be for a month at that time. Those citations are in the first page of the thread.

I fixed a few things (repaired tank aeration system, corrected PK13-14 usage) and got that up to about 23z per tray, 1z per plant.

Cooltubes went in some time later; too soon to tell what that will do to the yield, but the reduced heat and much more stable temps are making things look promising, on the order of about 1.25-1.5 per plant.
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
I've been browsing around the boards a bit while taking a break from the snipping. One common thread I keep finding is that too many growers are working way too hard, particularly on nutes.

Dunno, could be because I'm a stoned slacker or because I'm running a production line op that makes a lot of dope and I don't want to fuck with it constantly (and I make stupid stoner mistakes!), but I simplify and make robust or errorproof my processes wherever I can. Some of my foolproofing and fuckwit factor reductions involve compromises to max yield per plant, but never to quality.

I run plants in pots of absorbent media, as opposed to aero or DWC, both which supply lots more O2 to the roots and thus improve production by about 10-20%, because aero & DWC don't have inherent fault tolerance. Aero, DWC etc. break and stop working- right now. Floods with pots break and give you a couple days to catch it.

The fault expected is the grower (me)! Air pump failures, general negligence and outright grower fuckups can kill whole batches in other methods. I chose the less productive method because it's a lot harder to kill entire batches at once- but don't think I haven't given that a good goddamn try anyway... :D

We were on nutes here a page or so ago. I've also gone and looked over the GH/Lucas stuff. I'd go absolutely porcupine-buggering mad (figure you'd have to be pretty mad to bugger a porcupine) if I had to calculate out all those drop-by-drop portions for my 5 tanks AND keep track of them as each of my batches progress. That's not nutes, that's NUTS. :D

It simply doesn't have to be all that hard to get good results.
 

stickyicky77

Well-Known Member
You are the man AL. Those clones look dank. What strain are those in the pics? Do you think i will be able to get 1oz per plant in my 2x2 tray with 15 clones under a 400w Super HPS?
 

VictorVIcious

Well-Known Member
You know, this just feels right. I remember the first time i viewed those picture's I think it was still my first month of membership on rollitup. I thought then I didn't quite understand it. You have patiently repeated the same things over and over for us, and still find time to make improvements in what was already a model for many of us. And I am going to make it to Australia, don't know where and I guess its rather large.
Well, off to review your cloning thread, and one more look at that rocket science schedule, lets see if I have that down. Two weeks for clones,two weeks for table one, two weeks table two, two weeks table three and two weeks table four, all flood and drain because its easier and produces within 10 t0 20% of aero etc. 1400ppm, ph'd water and a booster when its called for. Uhh that kinda sounds simple?? Are you sure it can be that easy?? Props. VV
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
You are the man AL. Those clones look dank.
Thanks, but some days I feel less like 'da man' and more like 'DUH man.'

One of these days I'll tell you how a mislabelled spray bottle of bleach got confused with fungicide... and wiped out half a tray before I caught myself.

What strain are those in the pics?
All Sweet Tooth #4 from Spice of Life Seeds.

Do you think i will be able to get 1oz per plant in my 2x2 tray with 15 clones under a 400w Super HPS?
2 things; a) you probably won't get your best production until you've been running it for a few months, and b) I can't speak to the production ability of a 400 in flowering, haven't used one to flower for about 7 years- been using 1000s. Things would have to be going pretty badly for you to get under 1/2z per, though.

You know, this just feels right. I remember the first time i viewed those picture's I think it was still my first month of membership on rollitup. I thought then I didn't quite understand it. You have patiently repeated the same things over and over for us, and still find time to make improvements in what was already a model for many of us.
Thanks for your kindness, VV. And thanks for looking after the thread for a spell when I'd had about a gutful of internet cannabis forums.

One thing I didn't do in post #1 is to simply say it is 4 independent flood systems, fed with a batch of clones every 2 weeks until plants start coming out of the other end of the pipeline. Repeat. Forever. :D

And I am going to make it to Australia, don't know where and I guess its rather large.
Oh, I reckon you'll work it out. :lol:

Try the backpacker routine. Fly in to SYD with some $ and no plans. Go to a backpackers' hostel, meet up with 4-5 like-minded travellers, pool your $, buy a used car or a van for a cpl-3 thou and start driving. Sell it when you leave. Everyone else does. :)

Well, off to review your cloning thread, and one more look at that rocket science schedule, lets see if I have that down. Two weeks for clones,two weeks for table one, two weeks table two, two weeks table three and two weeks table four, all flood and drain because its easier and produces within 10 t0 20% of aero etc. 1400ppm, ph'd water and a booster when its called for. Uhh that kinda sounds simple?? Are you sure it can be that easy?? Props. VV
Ignore the advice in the cloning thread about putting weak veg nutes in the watering soln given to clones before they set root. I found that the N caused slowed rooting. Just tapwater, pH adj to 5.8 & add 50% grade H2O2 @ 1ml/litre.

The real trick in cloning is keeping the media warm- heat mats are great for consistency and speed- and media must be only damp, never wet or saturated.

Yep- it's all that easy. The thing is a bit neat and symmetrical with pairs of this'n that and even numbers and all. Makes a lot of things simpler for a stoner with a short term memory like a... well.. a stoner. Everything happens in the same weeks in the month. If you start the process on the 1st of the month, you know your tank changes are on the 1st & 15th. Those can be your harvest dates as well. You can break up the jobs a bit, dump tanks one week, harvest the next, dump, harvest, etc etc.

Thanks again, VV. :)
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
Yep, CO2, done properly, will bump your op's output 20-50%.

The operative word is properly.

By properly, I mean a sealed grow room, mainly cooled by aircon and CO2 from a tank, metered and measured with a controller device. Cooltubes reduce the thermal load while keeping CO2 in the room.

With CO2, you can run your room temps at 32C, otherwise waaaaay too hot. I'd hold it to 30C, myself. The combination of a CO2 enriched atmosphere, high humidity (70-80%) and higher temp makes for much faster growth- you could probably take a week out of an 8 week flowering sked and yield the same as w/o CO2, or you can just run for 8wks and get more weight.

It's killer stuff, done right. It is killer stuff done wrong, too. ;) You can use CO2 to murder any bug in the op by raising the room concentration to 10,000ppm and closing up the room for an hour or two. If you were in the room, you'd meet the fate of your bugs. Be careful. CO2 is colourless and odourless.
 

stickyicky77

Well-Known Member
Awesome. It sounds like i am set then. My mothers are in veg week 7 and 8 and have small preflowers. Can you check out my journal and tell me if they look ready to take clones from?
 

daddychrisg

Well-Known Member
Organic nutrients (and media such as coco coir) are incompatible with H2O2. H2O2 is used in standard hydro ops as a steriliser and root oxygenator. It will break down organic based fertilisers as readily as it will break down pathogens.

Hey Al, so why is H202 not compatible with Coco Coir?


 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
Ausome. It sounds like i am set then. My mothers are in veg week 7 and 8 and have small preflowers. Can you check out my journal and tell me if they look ready to take clones from?
Yep, you have lots of material for cuttings- but have you sexed them yet?

Organic nutrients (and media such as coco coir) are incompatible with H2O2. H2O2 is used in standard hydro ops as a steriliser and root oxygenator. It will break down organic based fertilisers as readily as it will break down pathogens.

Hey Al, so why is H202 not compatible with Coco Coir?

For the same reason H2O2 is not compatible with organic nutes. H2O2 is a powerful oxidiser and will break bonds in dead organic materials' molecular structures. If you break the bonds, the material goes back to the carbon cycle- in little bits made up of materials that H2O2 can't break down (ie. materials already oxidised), if there's any such material in what you're oxidising with your H2O2.
 

We TaRdED

Well-Known Member
how many weeks in,from seed, do you start to take clones to sex?

i think it would be easier to just take the clone(s) and then start to flower the donor plant, so you keep the plant(s) short- and toss any males you might have you along with your clones ,unless you are going to be breeding:hump:.
then you keep the clone(s) from your best plant after you harvest!!!!

i just started some seed and i think i will try this technique when the plants are one month in....

whats your thought on this al?:mrgreen: i hope that made sense:-|

and thanks in advance:peace:
 

kenaz

Well-Known Member
Now, if you want a finicky plant, try raising some Australian natives, which keel over dead when there's a box of ferts with any phosphorus in it within the same time zone... :D
Do you know anyone who works with any of the native Aussie fish or reptiles?

What I wouldn't do to get my hands on an Australian lungfish or a Kinghorni Scrub... but alas, the Australian government makes export of native fauna very difficult/impossible. (As I understand it, getting caught smuggling animals out of Australia is about as serious as getting caught bringing hard drugs in... ).
 

bigal10

Active Member
Yep, CO2, done properly, will bump your op's output 20-50%.

The operative word is properly.

By properly, I mean a sealed grow room, mainly cooled by aircon and CO2 from a tank, metered and measured with a controller device. Cooltubes reduce the thermal load while keeping CO2 in the room.

With CO2, you can run your room temps at 32C, otherwise waaaaay too hot. I'd hold it to 30C, myself. The combination of a CO2 enriched atmosphere, high humidity (70-80%) and higher temp makes for much faster growth- you could probably take a week out of an 8 week flowering sked and yield the same as w/o CO2, or you can just run for 8wks and get more weight.

It's killer stuff, done right. It is killer stuff done wrong, too. ;) You can use CO2 to murder any bug in the op by raising the room concentration to 10,000ppm and closing up the room for an hour or two. If you were in the room, you'd meet the fate of your bugs. Be careful. CO2 is colourless and odourless.
do you have to use aircon or can you just get C.A.P. 2 Timer Temp/Humidity/CO2 Controller which will disable CO2 injection if the temperature or humidity levels that you specify are exceeded, activating an exhaust outlet which can control ventilation equipment. Once again I know we have covered this a few times but earlier you said someone should only use aircon as a last resort.
 

smartfood

Well-Known Member
how many weeks in,from seed, do you start to take clones to sex?

i think it would be easier to just take the clone(s) and then start to flower the donor plant, so you keep the plant(s) short- and toss any males you might have you along with your clones ,unless you are going to be breeding:hump:.
then you keep the clone(s) from your best plant after you harvest!!!!

i just started some seed and i think i will try this technique when the plants are one month in....

whats your thought on this al?:mrgreen: i hope that made sense:-|

and thanks in advance:peace:
That's how I did it. I sent 13 plants to flower (6F, 6M, 1H). Cut clones from all pre-flower, tossed the H and M clones and vwalah, got future moms + next round of plants to go into flower, plus I've got bud on the way sooner :hump:. Some rooted faster/better than others (Also taking that into consideration when choosing mum). 2 different strains, 4 very different plants.
 

smartfood

Well-Known Member
Your plants look pretty good, aside from being a little nitrogen and phosphorus deficient- see purpling stems and yellowing lower leaves. Always better to shoot low with ferts than high! The problems I see are fixable.
Hmmm I was thinking that it was the temperatures at night that were getting to them (as low as 61F). I was under the impression that that could turn stalks purple as well, but I may be wrong on this. Either way, I gave them a nice feeding, and I'm sure they'll appreciate it!

However, most of your plants have been vegged too long for the SoG method. They look like they have been vegging for several weeks. If these were put in to flower, they would be too tall by the end of wk8.

Not only will overall height be a problem if you don't have a lot of vertical space to work with in your flowering area, but the buds down low on the plant (just above the point where you will have removed all branching) will likely come up sparse and fluffy. Zero veg time post the clones setting root prevents this problem.
What do you think about clipping off the new growth on the sides from the veg time and throwing them straight into flower? That is to say, trim them down to look like how your clones look on day 1. Essentially they'd be at the same point as your clones with only one growth tip. Would this solve the issue of fluffy buds? I'm hoping so, cuz that's what I did last night =P

Yes, these could be flowered, but they look like they'd be better as mother plants for you, if given a bit of a feed and about 7-10 days under 18-24h HPS (or MH) light.
I chose the four bushiest as mothers and am vegging those (2 Chrystal, 1 Indica-dominant Satori, 1 Sativa-dominant satori). In case my previous plan doesn't work out, I'll still have a plan B!

Thanks Al!
 
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