Got my GE BrightStiks

sure you can! each one of those comes with a driver - you dont need to buy anything. and if, as i suspect, most of these drivers can run twice as many chips (or more) in parallel more efficiently, you not only have enough drivers, you have an army of spares that you can keep on the shelf or run monos, etc etc

running these softer, with real heatsinks, will "cure" their heat problems
 
BOBBY_G said:
sure you can! each one of those comes with a driver - you dont need to buy anything. and if, as i suspect, most of these drivers can run twice as many chips (or more) in parallel more efficiently, you not only have enough drivers, you have an army of spares that you can keep on the shelf or run monos, etc etc

running these softer, with real heatsinks, will "cure" their heat problems
Click to expand...
Explain a bit more plox?
 
BOBBY_G said:
sure you can! each one of those comes with a driver - you dont need to buy anything. and if, as i suspect, most of these drivers can run twice as many chips (or more) in parallel more efficiently, you not only have enough drivers, you have an army of spares that you can keep on the shelf or run monos, etc etc

running these softer, with real heatsinks, will "cure" their heat problems
Click to expand...
Trying to figure out where I'd be putting the drivers and how to use them. But the BrightStiks h e weird pole that comes up to power them. Utilitechs would be easier cause the pads already soldered. Just would need to cut the wires off the metal threads of the screw on base.
 
Airwalker16 said:
Trying to figure out where I'd be putting the drivers and how to use them. But the BrightStiks h e weird pole that comes up to power them. Utilitechs would be easier cause the pads already soldered. Just would need to cut the wires off the metal threads of the screw on base.
Click to expand...
You need to find the older style 9.5W Utilitechs if you plan to just unscrew the board from the base to reveal the driver. The new ones look like they will break if you try to remove them as they dont have the 2 screws that hold the board on the base.
 
I recently dug out some blue 12V automotive smd dash lights I was going to use in a project car. I wired 5 of them up in parallel to a 9V 800ma wall wart and let them sit for about 10 hrs and they didnt even get warm. If these can manage to stay relatively as cool on 12V constant, I may incorporate these into my cob build since it will be easy to just tie into the 12V supply already present for the 12V 140mm cooling fans. You can see they are so bright that they are washing out the color in the pic, even on my Nikon d60.
DSC_0001.JPG DSC_0002.JPG DSC_0006.JPG DSC_0009.JPG DSC_0010.JPG
 
114 lu/W....not too shabby. I was reading the reviews and someone mentioned buying both 3000 & 5000K of this bulb. Thats something I have noticed in buying led bulbs at Lowes is that there isnt a good selection of K when shopping. Most everything I see is 3000K or "warm white".
 
such an interesting thread!!! You rock bobby g
I actually just hung a few ge brightsticks where lighting was not existent. I'm sure it won't hurt
 
new kid in town walmart greatvalue 2700k 14W 1500 lm, $5.84, $21.xx in 4 packs

grabbed one yesterday. amazing to me that all of these use different boards, havent seen an oem used twice anywhere
 
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