Never saw that before. Other than the moss it sounds good. Are you ph'ing your water? Here tap water goes from 8-10. Seriously.
Is it only the new growth that is affected? If so, it should narrow down what it could be. I mean, new growth is affected by immobile nutrients.
1 Tsp fish emulsion. Mouth got ahead of the fingers.
With bone meal and soft rock phosphate, I bet that he is having micronutrient issues like iron and/or zinc. I think that I ruined a perfectly good grow with too much soft rock P. Everything was going great and I had one of my best grows ever, then my 2nd grow with the soil was awful. The only thing that I could think of was that the P started to break down. I started getting my potting soil tested and realized that I was ALWAYS 15x too much P and iron/manganese was close to 0(solubility test). That is when I got into Clackamas Coot's low P soil. If I see bone meal or rock phosphate in a soil mix, I run away... However, it's not(edit) the same for everyone. If you have high Fe in your soil, it might work great... My ground soil tests high in P and low in Fe.
Ty for the info. Better add the other half of the band aid to that foliar. 1/4 Tsp epsoms salt.
Foliar spray is the right thing to do for immobile nutrients though and fish would be recommended, so I didn't see anything wrong with your advice.
I believed the advice to be good. You just gave the OP the reasoning behind it. I don't know the science. Just what works here.
We have it here at HTG Supply. No i haven't been PHing my water as it said there was no need to. Lights are about 20 in. away from her. She was started in roots organic then transplanted into this living soil. No problems when transplanted, she's been in this soil for about a month maybe a lil longer. I don't believe the soil is to hot. The PH of my tap is between 7.0-7.2. I'll have to get to HTG to try some of the fish emulsion.
Yes only the new growth is being affected.
So do I add fish emulsion and epsoms salt, and is that per gallon?
If I was going to take a total shot in the dark(which we are w/o a soil test) I would say it's micronutrients like iron, zinc, and manganese. You will need to foliar feed to correct the deficiency. I use a product called TM-7 or BioMin Booster 153, I have both on hand.
Yes I lightly water the top soil every day to keep it moist. I've been waiting on my autos to finish up so I can repot her. So should I top dress until I can transplant her? How and what should I dress with?
The foliar spray will provide the missing nutes until you get the ph and soil corrected. The above post is most likely on track saying soil may be cold. But I would assume due to lock not depletion. Water only burned those tips earlier in time. The pot is dry from pic. The leaf curl along the length indicates heat, light or thirst. I would change my ph. Water until run off every watering. Add a little water at a time. I take 20 - 30 min. to water a plant. Because soil becomes hydrophobic when dry. Lift your pot afterwards. This is wet weight. When it feels light water again. Check it daily. Fabric is highly erratic in watering schedules. And maintaining a wet dry routine will help the plant to "air trim" the roots. Have you flushed that soil? That may help. Detroit dirt would concern me. That entire corner of the state is a toxic dump. Also you may need to top dress or find a water soluble organic fert. Soil sounds like FF and its nute issues. Not a good stand alone all in one. And definitely not 3 months worth of groceries in the bag.
SE MI has crazy high iron content in the ground water. Maybe he should try well water. Might be formulated for that unpalatable stuff. Detroit, Great Lakes "water" only. Hence the phosphates. We may all be overlooking that. I know the water in that area well. Family orchard in Jackson and farm/orchard in Gratiot counties. . I wouldn't bathe with it when I was a kid. Still won't drink it.
If you have some compost or earth worm castings I would top dress with a cup or two of that. Get some microbes kicking! Let them do the work for you.
