GreenthumbQC
Well-Known Member
In cased newcomers are reading this the reality is an un aircooled 600w MH AND HPS is fine at two feet. Proper ventilation required.
Grow room temps
- Thread starter dak1b
- Start date
zander19
Well-Known Member
for exp i know a 600w hps/mh will burn your plant at 2ft form the top. you will need some wind passing by it at 2ft to not burn your plants. i will do a video on youtube with a test plant to show you the crap you need to do to drop temp of it
GreenthumbQC
Well-Known Member
k show us. thanks.
Red1966
Well-Known Member
I have one of those Big Kahuna hoods. Does yours leak like all hell like mine did?
Red1966
Well-Known Member
600w in an air cooled hood can be safely lowered to 18 inches
Red1966
Well-Known Member
Yes, If you don't ventilate, humidity will be sky high.
DemonTrich
Well-Known Member
LOL yup. for 250 each I would have expected a better build quality. I used silicone caulk to seal the gaps around the "stacks". but then I have leaks at the glass to body seal. I have some 3m hvac taping it together. but I still have air leaks. it leaks into the tent not pulling stinky air out at least.
Red1966
Well-Known Member
Lol...I did the same thing. I could hear it whistling around the stacks! Even the rivets leak! it will be hell trying to turn the stacks around if I ever need to. The thing weighs a fucking ton, too.
GreenthumbQC
Well-Known Member
No theirs magically no smell when the lights go out. yes exhaust on, all fans on. Or it gets humid and stinky. Im sure you can figure some of these out yourself.
GreenthumbQC
Well-Known Member
FlashBabylon
Active Member
Small ultrasonic humidifier, will run for about 24 hours without topping up, cost about $10.
Hit the roof.
Running.
rob333
Well-Known Member
strange to 600 watt hps no fans about 30 cm away from plant she dont look burnt nore do any of the other ones
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GreenthumbQC
Well-Known Member
dense colas man! nice! And I know right, a 600 is fine at two feet. anyways.
tyke1973
Well-Known Member
i no longer use a temp gage i have one thats sends temps direct to me in another house but if the plants look good then they will be fine,the reason that i gave up on the ph meter and the temp gage,is we have come a hell of a long way in the indoor growing,from when i first ever did one.
Ditch the temp gage,if the plants have good coulour,i think just go on the plants they will tell you if there is a problem.
Temp gage can cause you to do something,that is un needed same goes for the ph metre un-less you are useing water that is not good for human use.
Same goes for all the co2 tanks and ro water un needed there plants in the end,i think we treat them has though there human on life support nature will allways find a way.i think that you can get a plant to even deal with hot temps the more and more you run it,but the mother room has to be has hot has the flower room,i would only use co2 tanks if i was in a air tight self contained unit.
If you are new to growing then dont get caught up in the latest just get cool hood if you have the money or when you get the money.
i produce oil for medical reasons along with a friend his room runs hot but he still pulls 14 oz min of each plant dry,in a loft space from 4 .in fact he just finished up a grow and got 57 oz dry.every bit went to oil and hash.
something has simple has haveing a 12" oss fan blowing across the tops of the plants can be all that is needed to tek the temps down but the reading would be lower at the plant top then higher in the room.
Try it has long has you have a decent outle/inlet fan then go on the plants,you will get to understand them the more you work with them.
I got caught up in you need this you need that problem after problem all prob caused through me going on what people say the room should be,since i have ditched all the stuff like the two above i hit near a lb per plant dry 99% of the time.
One reading that i do take is the humidity though this is key so you do not get mould,turn the meter on for a hour a week just to take one reading if the weather is pretty much the same where you are at then the reading will most of the time read the same,out door weather plays a key factor in the humidity,
Get the light close has possible during veg and the first weeks of flowering up to around week 4 then higher the light,this will give the plants a wider ark of light.i don't mean feet away at most 1 1/2 ft from the plant tops.higher if you are not useing cool vented lighting.use your hand has the gage to see where the light should be too hot for your hand then its too hot for the plants,
But if you do have abee in ya bonnet about temps
lights on 25/28
lights off 15/18,if the temps are high during lights of the plants will stretch
clones/seedling humidity 60/70 %
vegging plants 55/65 %
flowering 50/55 %
Ditch the temp gage,if the plants have good coulour,i think just go on the plants they will tell you if there is a problem.
Temp gage can cause you to do something,that is un needed same goes for the ph metre un-less you are useing water that is not good for human use.
Same goes for all the co2 tanks and ro water un needed there plants in the end,i think we treat them has though there human on life support nature will allways find a way.i think that you can get a plant to even deal with hot temps the more and more you run it,but the mother room has to be has hot has the flower room,i would only use co2 tanks if i was in a air tight self contained unit.
If you are new to growing then dont get caught up in the latest just get cool hood if you have the money or when you get the money.
i produce oil for medical reasons along with a friend his room runs hot but he still pulls 14 oz min of each plant dry,in a loft space from 4 .in fact he just finished up a grow and got 57 oz dry.every bit went to oil and hash.
something has simple has haveing a 12" oss fan blowing across the tops of the plants can be all that is needed to tek the temps down but the reading would be lower at the plant top then higher in the room.
Try it has long has you have a decent outle/inlet fan then go on the plants,you will get to understand them the more you work with them.
I got caught up in you need this you need that problem after problem all prob caused through me going on what people say the room should be,since i have ditched all the stuff like the two above i hit near a lb per plant dry 99% of the time.
One reading that i do take is the humidity though this is key so you do not get mould,turn the meter on for a hour a week just to take one reading if the weather is pretty much the same where you are at then the reading will most of the time read the same,out door weather plays a key factor in the humidity,
Get the light close has possible during veg and the first weeks of flowering up to around week 4 then higher the light,this will give the plants a wider ark of light.i don't mean feet away at most 1 1/2 ft from the plant tops.higher if you are not useing cool vented lighting.use your hand has the gage to see where the light should be too hot for your hand then its too hot for the plants,
But if you do have abee in ya bonnet about temps
lights on 25/28
lights off 15/18,if the temps are high during lights of the plants will stretch
clones/seedling humidity 60/70 %
vegging plants 55/65 %
flowering 50/55 %
Last edited:
dak1b
Well-Known Member
I've heard mixed things about humidity. Some say you want 40- 50 veg and 30 - 40 flower to reduce chances of mold. My room is currently at 75 degrees and 35 - 40 humidity veg.
I Should lower my light? Its at 18in now...i might be able to move it down 6in without burning....
I Should lower my light? Its at 18in now...i might be able to move it down 6in without burning....